Amazingly there was some sun today, so why not…
The new April 2019 Burgundy Report online: Here
350 wines – still mainly 2017 and with a Marsannay and Echézeaux focus – but some 2018s are also now starting to creep into the mix. Then there are the newly profiled domaines and many magnums of older Beaujolais tasted. You know it makes sense 🙂
I can see some new issues with the site when subscribers login – they go directly to an admin page (so have to click top-right onto ‘visit site’ to get back to where you should be), instead of the page they should see – that’s going to take a week to fix as my ‘technician’ is on holiday – c’est la vie!
DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2017 – Puligny-Montrachet
Mâcon-Verzé 2017 75cl 33.00 (Swiss francs*)
Mâcon-Verzé Les Chênes 2017 75cl 38.00
Mâcon-Verzé Le Monté 2017 75cl 38.00
Pouilly-Fuissé 2017 75cl 49.00
Rully 1er Cru Leflaive & Associés 2017 75cl 49.00
Image, right, ex-Domaine Leflaive
*As each year from the same merchant. These prices are delivered in Switzerland, without the additional 8% Swiss purchase tax which you should include. The Pouilly-Fuissé and the Rully were previously offered (same price, September 2018) so are presumably not sold out – it’s the first time that I saw the Mâcons offered though. Of these, I tasted only the Mâcon-Verzey Le Chêne when at the domaine in October 2018.
Good as the wines undoubtedly are, the Leflaive/Puligny tax is about 50%(+) versus fine makers from those regions…
A modest report of modest labels but a couple of beauties nonetheless – my cold pairing down the notes to a sub-minimum:
2016 Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne
Good colour. Depth of concentration, really good texture. Balanced and excellent – the quality punches well above the label.
Rebuy – Yes
2017 Domaine Faiveley, Ladoix
Ohh, here is a proper white burgundy – just faintly oaked but with poise and drive – tension even! One bottle is not enough!
Rebuy – Yes
2015 Clotilde Davaenne, Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Clearly more coloured than the Ladoix. Good drive, the impression of a little caramel to the flavours. Unfortunately put into the shade by the Ladoix, which it followed. Otherwise a good wine.
Rebuy – Maybe
Lunch in the Auberge du Col des Truges, a little walk around Saint-Joseph, a cola in Fleurie – and then it was the the ‘Jazz in Moulin à Vent.’ Thirteen domaines showing their wines – I think I ‘tasted’ all of them – by that, I mean that they were in my glass – but with my cold I couldn’t tell you if it was red or black fruit or flowers – but I could still spot the good ones!
The forecast for today was bad all week, but we had dry – hooray – until about 15 minutes before the first band should have been on stage – typical! 21h30 we were underway back to Beaune before the music had begun – a shame but c’est la vie…
Still a great day…
I think the sun returned today – 23.5°C – that’s the first time since the second half of March! My visits were a homage to Chardonnay Day, though I’ll admit – one day early:
After my morning tasting of Mâconnais, I decided to jog up to the top of the Rock of Solutre – kind of disappointed that it turned out to be only 1.4 km – in my memory, it was more! Still, the distance was double as there’s also only one way down 🙂 The afternoon brought a visit to Thivin’s Clos de Rochebonne in the Pierres Dorées* region of Beaujolais – their white wine, of course! Though I should note that contrary to the ethos of Chardonnay Day, Claude Geoffray has a little Gouais Blanc planted in the vineyard – well, I suppose we could say that it’s chardonnay’s mum (or dad!)
Of-course much more about today’s visits in my May Report, for subscribers…
*Did you know that ‘La Pierre Dorée’ is a commercial brand of ‘industrially produced’ cheese in France? Who would have thought!?
2014 Jean-Marc Vincent, Puligny-Montrachet Corvées des Vignes
Plenty of colour. A nose that’s vibrant but also has a little rubbery reduction about it – for the 36 hours that this was open, it hardly faded. Wide, fresh, energetic, lovely acidity – penetrating flavour with super depth – moreish despite that same reductive note showing on the nose. Lovely but surely even better without the reduction…
Rebuy – Maybe
2017 Chasselay, Beaujolais La Platière
What to follow a Griotte-Chambertin with?
Ooh – that’s a deep, dark colour. The nose is a little yeasty and reductive – but what a panorma of flavour. Juicy dark fruit, layers of flavour. Fine freshness and lovely finishing. A hit!
Rebuy – Yes
2010 Gilles Bouton, Blagny 1er Sous le Puits
Hardly medium colour, also starting to show some age. A forward nose, showing some leafy development but essentiLly fresh and correct. Wide, open, bright and fresh – lip smackingly good flavour of acid-led freshness and fine depth and complexity – anonymously starting but opening with plenty pf interest. Essentially not much to start, but finishing with lots of fun, lots of flavour. Not as good as a decent 2010 villages from a proper red-wine village though…
Rebuy – No
2004 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Plenty of colour here, but the nose is completely lacking any oxidation – there’s the first early suggestion of ‘older’ chardonnay aroma, and just a touch of asparagus too – I’ve met plenty of asparagus in 2011 Chablis, but this is a first in the Côte d’Or! The asparagus is present, if fainter, on the palate too. The palate has drive and an intense minerlity – I’m impressed, yet, this wine could do with a little more sucrosity – it’s hardly moreish. Good, indeed impressive, but certainly not great – other than intellectually…
Rebuy – No
2016 de Serrigny, Savigny lès Beaune Blanc
Ooh – that’s an attractive and inviting nose of creamy, sweet citrus I don’t mind if I do! In the mouth round but with rippling acidity, sweet citrus and a delicious, faintly oak-tinged flavour ensemble. Absolutely stunning for the price – über-delicious!
Rebuy – Yes
Meursault 1er Clos des Perrières – 2017-1928
A day in Beaune today – despite the grey skies, it was one of those special days in Beaune. A privilege to taste wines back to 1928 – ostensibly white wine – but good enough that Lalou Bize-Leroy was coming back for extra sips. So many highlights!
Of course all will be in my May report – but first, it’s time to finish April’s!