Saturday…

This was yet another varied and interesting day in more ways than one !

In football (soccer) parlance this might be suitably described as a game (or day) of two halves (parts) ! Let’s get into it.

I was up earlier than usual, not sure how I dragged myself out of bed at circa 5.00 a.m., as I was silly keen to have a little time to work on ‘Bill Stuff’. Intent on heading for the domaine cuverie end of our dining cave/cellar to use the wi-fi pre breakfast instead I was thrown off my stride by early morning rain starting to come down. As I’d not dressed for such eventuality I had to return to my bedroom (Chef Jean-Michel sleeping soundly, bless him, a thoroughly nice man) and put on my wet weather gear over my ‘normal’ clothes and change my footwear.

Acho sitting happily with his Italian owners

And we thought the Chardonnay was good – wait until we get to this Pinot – no burnt grapes in sight

And we thought the Chardonnay was good – wait until we get to this Pinot2 – no burnt grapes in sight

And we thought the Chardonnay was good – wait until we get to this Pinot3 – no burnt grapes in sight

Brightening up a little here at 12.17 with Michel issuing instructions (1)

Our a.m destination was a return to the same spot we’d been in yesterday i.e the Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Fontaine St Martin Monopole of the domaine. Here, a quick recap to an aspect of yesterday I’d forgotten, but have been reminded of from Bill’s adding my Day 6 words & photos, namely the featuring once again of the unpleasant clouds of flying ants I’d last seen in NSG Les Chailots (see previous words re Day xx). One can make out the insects quite easily on yesterday’s photos – those photos of our arrival in Fontaine St Martin. If anything the clouds of insects were denser than the first occasion – quite nasty ! Fortunately, they only seemed to be in, or above, the open spaces hence once we were working in the rows of vines there was no bothersome issue. Quite weird to have this experience – never seen similar before in any of my previous (13) vendanges.

Clodagh from Lebanon wearing this season’s fascinator

End of the first a.m. row at bottom of the slope

Job done for this row of HCDN Chard – gap between rows wide enough for tractor & trailer

Re-embarking for back to Vosne & lunch

Prunelle guarding the white grapes press & sheltering from the rain – clever dog !

Back to today – once again Chardonnay, in humungous quantities of grapes, was the order of the day. We were lower, in level within the vineyard, row terms than yesterday. The morning remained, for the most part, as early in Vosne, largely grey, claggy, with heavy low cloud, and some intermittent light drizzle (not enough to interrupt us). Typically (!) it started to brighten up as the morning came to a conclusion. I was, again, ‘taken’ with sight of a Kestrel hovering low over the vines between NSG & Vosne as we returned.

Somewhat to my initially disbelieving surprise our day was done at lunch. Reason ? The evening was to feature our vendange Paulee – not a Paulee in the sense of the famed Meursault one, but more a celebration of the harvest with good food, better than usual wines, speeches, presentations et al. But why the Paulee mid-way through the harvest – we’d only just started on the domaine’s important Hautes-Cotes vines areas (to ultimately last more than a week) ? I never actually asked why but am pretty sure the reason was the imminent, sizeable, changeover in workers. A goodly number of folk were to leave on Sunday and be replaced at the beginning of the following week by new people who arrived in dribs and drabs as the second week progressed. The team which ended the harvest was quite different in make up from the one that started. Additionally, to me it seemed many of those who left after the first week were longstanding regulars, and many the more mature/older individuals. Seemingly they came only for the Cote D’Or work, or maybe they could only spare a week from their regular employments (or a bit of both). I could only interpret the above was the reason for the mid harvest nature of the evening’s Paulee to come.

A relaxed Prunelle at Paulee

Acho enjoying the cuverie gathering

Cuverie ready for Paulee aperitifs

Pre Paulee cuverie gathering

Ahead of the evening’s entertainment I had the afternoon free. It was interesting how, after lunch, most folk drifted away before returning later. The afternoon was sunny in marked contrast to our morning. Initially I took the opportunity to drive to the NSG Intermarche supermarket for some beers, partly as I fancied some for the coming week and also as I’d been offered a beer or two pre dinner in the week just passed & wanted to be able to reciprocate. Naturally, I took the opportunity to have a look at the wine selection in the store, the Burgundy elements anyway, and picked up a sole bottle of a Vincent Prunier 2019 Auxey-Duresses Blanc to go with my beers. Once back in Vosne I spent the remainder of the afternoon working on my laptop (photos) whilst continuing to enjoy the internet via the wi-fi, following the UK Premier League soccer on the BBC Sport website – ultimately much cheered by The Mighty Reds (Liverpool FC) going top of the table.

As the afternoon moved into evening, I gave myself plenty of time to get spruced up and changed into smarter clothes for the evening to come. I’m always much taken at any vendange Paulee how different my work colleagues can look when they arrive smartly dressed for an evening and I wasn’t to be disappointed here by a particularly notable display from a few of the senior ladies. Before addressing matters sartorial I should outline that the initial part of the evening, the Paulee drinks reception as it were, once we’d all assembled in the yard area, was to take place in the smartened, tidied, and cleared for the purpose cuverie. Down the centre of the cuverie 3 newish looking oak barrels had been placed, on mats, at suitable distances apart, each covered with white cloths, and on which were a number of drinks glasses. Back to the attire of some senior ladies:- they had really made an effort, and “gone to town” in vintage clothing and appropriate accessories e.g smart hats, walking sticks etc. I’m sure there’s a name/term for such dressing up but for now can’t recall it. Whatever, they certainly looked very impressively smart – well done them !

Outside cuverie pre Paulee mingling

Listening to Paulee Speeches

Michel Paulee Speech (1)

Michel with Marielle & Prunelle in attendance

Eventually we were invited to move into the cuverie from the yard and served champagne by Michel and Pierre with cheesy gougères arriving from the kitchen as accompaniments. Both Acho and Prunelle doggily enjoyed themselves moving amongst us in the cuverie and scrounging for the odd gougère or part thereof. All very ‘civilised’ ! I should have noted the name of the champagne producer but, sorry, I didn’t. Michel did mention it came from a friend of his who I gather he might have been at wine school with – I gather they swap wines, something I’ve seen elsewhere, notably at Domaine Arlaud were I was aware Cyprien had wines from friends, Alex Moreau (Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne) and Didier Picq (Domaine Gilbert Picq et Fils, Chablis). Typing this reminds me Michel had, on a couple of evenings the previous week, served us a Crozes-Hermitage Rouge and St Joseph from the same producer – another friend/acquaintance with wine swaps involved – apologies, again, I didn’t make a note of the producer.

Post champagne reception we moved into our dining cellar which various ladies had decorated for the evening. The tables, normally four set up across the cellar, had been moved to create two long tables the length of the cellar. As folk filed in and chose their seats I held back not quite sure, given my newbie first year status, just where I should sit but I was humbled and gratified when both Juliette and Michel insisted on a particular seat for me to solve my quandary. I should have made a note of our menu but didn’t, daft me, but have a vague recollection it may have been traditional Burgundy fare i.e jambon persille, boeuf bourguignon, fromage and a dessert.

Vintage smart dress from the senior ladies

Paulee Award to Juliette

Paulee Dining 2

Paulee Dining 4

Paulee wines – Vougeot 12, Reas 12 & Vosne 15

Pierre Paulee Speech

And the Paulee wines ? Yum, no disappointment here ! We enjoyed, well I certainly did, Vosne-Romanee Village 2015, Vosne 1er Clos des Reas 2012, and Clos Vougeot Grand Maupertuis 2012. For me it was a close call on my favourite but I reckon, close call though with the Reas, it was the Vougeot which seemed to have a little more of everything. The 2012s were certainly drinking well though, something I’d found at home with a few of my less grand 2012s.

Towards the end of the meal one of the senior ladies, Marielle I think is her name, became a Master (Mistress ?) of Ceremonies, introducing speeches from Michel & Pierre then overseeing awards to Juliette and I think one or two others.

An enjoyable evening and so, in time, to bed where I’d been provided with a companion. Upside down on the bed was one of the two, very large, mounted Sanglier heads from the entrance room to our property. Some clown cum idiot, presumably a Belgian 20 something child, must have thought it was a good idea cum laugh to put it there. I wasn’t too bothered per se, but more irritated that the joint privacy of the room, Chef Jean-Michel’s as well as mine, had been compromised not least with our valuables in situ. Returning the mounted head to the room below I should then have enjoyed a decent night’s sleep but once again such was not be the case with much noise late into the night emanating from the dining cellar and outside it. Once could but wonder what the Mugneret-Gibourg sisters made of said noise from their courtyard sharing adjacent property.

Sunday would be a non-working, ‘recovery’ day, and as such I’ll cover elements of that with our working for Monday, 18th Sept.

MdMdlV

Domaine Vendange Team1

Friday

Appreciate these are (to be) the words for this Day 6 but I’ve realised I’ve forgotten an aspect of the late evening of yesterday (Day 5) hence, rather than provide such words to Bill, and ask him to edit/add to the Day 5 document he already has, I’ll cover off such here before we get into this day’s events proper.

I’ve already recorded my working (on my photos and diary words) into the evening of Day 5, gaining use of the domaine wi-fi, and intent to have a late evening on the aforesaid work. Whilst busy at my laptop on one of the kitchen tables though I was regularly interrupted (in nice ways) as the evening went on, by entreaties from a number of my colleagues, to stop what I was doing and join the others watching the World Cup Rugby:– France versus Uruguay. Such invitations were very tempting, particularly given the venue (see below !) but I was determined to get on with my work and looked forward to ultimate peace and quiet; as well as being able to follow any evening’s football via wi-fi. As the evening went on though, and fatigue increased, the prospect of watching the rugby socially in an attractive setting, with a suitable drink, became compelling such that I eventually gave in to myself, packed up, and set off just up the street to join the others for what would be the second half of the game.

The venue for the rugby viewing on TV was the stunning building/setting of Comte Louis Liger-Belair’s new(ish) La Cuverie de Vosne ( lacuveriedevosne.fr ). The incredible looking building is essentially next door to Domaine Michel Gros and Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg and I could see the top of the La Cuverie building over the rooftops from our bathroom. I’ve no recollection now what used to be on the site of the La Cuverie building previously and not sure how long it’s been open. I was last in Vosne of course for the 2020 harvest with Domaine Michel Noellat but don’t have any recollection of La Cuverie then – I guess maybe it was a building site ? The venue is all of swanky, posh, striking, attractive, high end looking and many more such adjectives as one might come up with. Some guests were sitting at outside tables as I approached; inside was pretty full, on the TV side of the bar area any way. My colleagues, in previously trying to persuade me to join them, told me they had booked some of the tables/space some days earlier. I settled myself comfortably at the bar (on a free stool) with a good view of the TV and got myself a beer (just about the most reasonably affordable drink in the place !!!). Initially I was happy to watch the game and whilst France ultimately ran out comfortable winners I was quite impressed, and not on my own, with the performance of Uruguay. A second beer further lubricated my evening but as the game wore on I further ‘amused’ myself by studying the comprehensive and highly impressive wine lists. If one wants to feel impoverished, and marvel at the heady prices to which (some) Burgundy wines have reached, then studying the La Cuverie lists and looking at the wall mounted bottles should do the trick ! I believe one can also stay at La Cuverie ( 3 suites ?) and had already noted in recent days the high end cars populating the few La Cuverie parking spaces across the road from it. Someone told me the venue was a project of the wife of the Comte – whether that’s true I’ve no idea. What level of success, profitability, etc it might enjoy over time I guess time will tell – I’ve no idea/am not sure ! It’s certainly highly impressive from many angles & I enjoyed the ‘distraction’ of the rugby, my beers and the ambience.

As a quick corrective aside, whilst on the subject of sport, I’ve realised I made an incorrect reference for Day (or rather evening) 5 before someone ‘pulls me up on it’ in suggesting I’d been following LASK v. Liverpool FC on the internet – getting ahead of myself this was actually a week later !

Dawning of Day 6 prompted me to think how quickly the days had already flown past to this point. Getting ready for the day, breakfast etc was now a usual routine. Whilst we congregated at the domaine’s gates though I heard mention of Gevrey-Chambertin and asked if I might join the team heading there as an alternative to returning to Boncourt-le-Bois. I wasn’t on my own though as the usual small team which had operated in other terroirs was bolstered by others in addition to myself.

My experience of working in a Gevrey terroir ‘proper’ (other than Bourgogne Roncevie) has been with Domaine Arlaud in their Gevrey ‘La Justice’. Today though was somewhat different as we headed for Gevrey ‘La Platiere’. This terroir is on the Morey side of Gevrey, quite some way east of the D974, and below ‘Croix des Champs’. We turned off the D974 onto a road on the north side of ‘Croix des Champs’ (with Creux Brouillard on the other side of this road) and continued down some way on the flat lands until turning right on to another road & as far as an industrial ‘shed’ type building where we parked up & dismounted.

The domaine’s poshest vineyard tractor in Gevrey La Platiere

Gevrey La Platiere looking back to start (& into sun)

Gevrey La Platiere fruit awaiting collection

Gevrey La Platiere turnaround area after first pass & drinks break

The Gros domaine website describes ‘La Platiere’ thus:-

This parcel called “La Platière” is located in the alluvial cone which is located downstream of the Lavaux valley, a mixture of silt and limestone alluvium carried over the millennia. This subsoil is present in a large majority of the village appellation Gevrey-Chambertin and gives wines that are both supple and deep, of high quality for simple “village” wines.

From my perspective the location was very flat, not particularly scenic, the earth quite heavy, and the rows (we were to pick towards the D974 to a grassy ‘interruption’ area) quite intimidatingly long, albeit short compared to those at Boncourt ! I can’t recall now but am fairly sure we must have at least doubled up in the rows. The grapes I experienced, whilst of decent quantity & largely ‘clean’, were mostly smaller bunches than seen elsewhere previously. We weren’t on our own as one or two others domaine teams were also in the vicinity. When we came to complete the rows Acho amused me by running enthusiastically to another of these domaine teams – am sure he must have thought we were linked ! We finished early here, in a lunch context, at c11.30 and coincidentally the rest of the team had finished at Boncourt similarly such that we all more or less arrived back in Vosne together. The temperature had risen as the morning went on – it was hot getting back. An early lunch was decreed to result in an earlier than usual departure set for 13.15.

Lunch was notably interesting as our outside caterers had provided Perch (as in the small coarse fish) for our main course – an interesting & unusual choice (for me anyway). I can’t recall now what the fish were cooked in, or how, but the portion size allowed for several of the small fish – and very tasty they were too, bones not an issue. Recalling this meal reminds me we’d had another not so common choice last evening – which didn’t go down too well with everyone. The caterers certainly seemed to be using their imagination to vary the offerings but Thursday evening saw Andouillette served up as a main. I’ve heard, and read, a lot about Andouillette over the years – not all good (!) – thus approached my portion with some wary apprehension. It certainly looked ‘different’ albeit not to be studied too closely! Taste wise though it was fine such that I polished mine off happily. Wouldn’t be a first choice again though !

So, that was our morning gone and, whilst I didn’t realise at the time, that was the end of our Cote de Nuits work. When I’d first ‘signed up’ with Gros a vendange timetable had been suggested with week one given over for the Cote de Nuits terroirs, then a very civilised sounding weekend break, to be followed by the second week in the Hautes-Cotes de Nuits. The domaine broadly splits down its c23 hectares to 11.5ha on the CdN with approximately the same in the Hautes-Cotes (the latter including the domaine’s white grape vines).

M Gros Heavyweight Tractor Division arrive at HCDN site

And, yes, our post lunch departure, preceded by the domaine’s three (non vineyard type) tractors with trailers, setting off well before us given the travelling distance, was for the Hautes-Cotes but immediately before we all left Juliette quickly mustered us all at the street gates of the domaine for a group photoshoot using her phone – seizing the opportunity I joined her, standing a little behind, to grab my own camera shots. I was a little nonplussed at why the group shot at this juncture but subsequently realised in the coming days that, given we‘d see so many personnel changes after this first week, that the first week group was being photo’d before the material changes in team make up which occurred going into week two.

Having personally become more and more interested in the Hautes-Cotes in recent years, and always (for the most part – 2013 being a horror exception) enjoyed working there I was really looking forward to this. Our route was a clever one, initially at least, doubtless chosen to avoid the pesky delaying set of traffic lights coming into Nuits-St-Georges, as we left Vosne to head through the vines with Clos des Reas on our left, and zigzagged in convoy through the vines to the western residential edge of Nuits-St-Georges were we went through a small estate of houses onto the Rue General Brosset which, in turn, led to us turning right onto the D25 Route de la Serre away from NSG towards the Hautes-Cotes. Our route bordered the Le Meuzin watercourse, took us past the La Gentilhommerrie hotel/motel and, climbing all the while, still on the D25, to the very edge of Meuilley, where we took a 90 degree left onto the D115 Route de Beaune but only for a few hundred yards before turning right onto a minor road and up into the attractive hamlet of Chevrey, not far from Arcenant. Keeping left without entering Chevrey proper ultimately saw the road become a track which brought us into Gros’ HCDN Fontaine St Martin Monopole an extensive vineyard of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – all high trained in atypical Hautes-Cotes ‘style’. In addition to the high training the widths between the rows were considerably wider than one might atypically find on the Cote, doubtless to allow for larger, non-vineyard, conventional tractor access.

Hamlet of Chevrey from Gros HCDN Chard site

The scenic HCDN at its best (except for the flying ants)

These sentinels, or this sculpture could be tomorrow’s agenda

Very impressive and with fabulous, almost jaw dropping, beautiful views over rolling green hills, lush wooded areas, scattered hamlets, and what looks to be increasing vine plantings in the area and on the opposite hills. The nearest clue of where we’d come from was the distant sight of the long-time high masts (radio, TV, mobile phone ?) on the hills above Nuits-St-Georges which I was now looking at from the rear as it were. Michel and us in the Toyota had led the full team complement in 3 rental minibuses and 2-3 domaine vans. Henceforth there would be no small team group hive off to other sites. Our work for the mostly very pleasant, weather-wise, afternoon was the higher sections of the domaine’s Chardonnay. And wow, wow, just wow – what incredible grapes we had here. I can’t recall seeing anything like these – maybe Arlaud’s HCDN Chardonnay in a good year but the Gros vines here were carrying a serious weight of fabulous fruit.

Count the cases of HCDN Chard awaiting collection

M Gros HCDN High Trained Chardonnay – there were lots better than this !

M Gros HCDN Chardonnay case

HCDN Chard part team rest & drinks break

The Gros approach to picking here took me by surprise & was not something I’d anticipated. Both at Arlaud and Michel Noellat the picking approach on high trained vines in the HCDN had been the same i.e two vendangeurs to a row but one on each side i.e opposite each other. For both of those domaines though the rows had been quite short and upslope whereas here the Gros vines were along the slope and much longer in section. As such we were paired two to a row, leapfrogging each other from post (piquet) section to post section. The sub team triage folk were situated, with the empty cases, in the centre row of those rows, four or five, the sub team were working. When your bucket was getting full, and important not to have it too full or you risked admonishment for it being too heavy, one shouted, or called out loudly, “pannier” and put your bucket under the vines for someone from the triage folk to pick up/swapping with an empty bucket for you to continue with.

Unusual characters aside, this was a highly enjoyable first afternoon on the Hautes-Cotes and with the incredibly impressive Chardonnay. Finish came circa 17.00 hrs with a lengthy return to Vosne the way we came, the Toyota gang leaving last as usual, albeit we were not the last back at the domaine, passing one of our slower tractors en route. Moving on from the Andouillette and Perch our supper this evening was some super Rosbif !

The rest of the evening for me the usual photo work then bed. Tomorrow would bring a return to Fontaine St Martin but with another (unwelcome in part, if not result) change in the weather, leading into, for me, an unexpected evening.

MdMdlV

(typed 5/10/23)

A welcome clear early morning start to this day weather wise from yesterday but, as initially cooler, and maybe influenced by the day before, I layered up a bit under continuing to wear waterproofs – the Englishman in me I guess !

As it happened the day brightened considerably as the morning advanced such that I was soon peeling off cagoule, fleece etc.

Another day, another new terroir, this one quite at odds with our altitude yesterday. The only ‘common’ feature was Nuits-St-Georges but this day we travelled south of NSG for the only time, to the village plot of NSG ‘Les Chaliots’, below NSG 1er cru ‘Les Poirets’ which, in turn, has ‘Les Perrieres’ and ‘Les Poulettes’ above it. Quite a bit of other domaine/maison activity all around us today. Without doubt the vendange was in full swing in this part of the Cote.

M Gros Team awaiting start of NSG Les Chaliots

M Gros Team2 awaiting start of NSG Les Chaliots

NSG Town (zoomed) from NSG Les Chaliots. Unknown domaine vehicles in foreground.

And we had Chardonnay grapes in NSG Les Chaliots2

Quite, quite different understandably to our high on the hill previous experience north of NSG. The ground of ‘Les Chaliots’ was still wet and with heavy, clay type soils – in due course this would be the first day of needing to rid one’s footwear of glutinous sticky soil via such as scraping on row wires, posts etc. I can do no better descriptively than quote from the domaine website re this terroir:-

This name derives from the word “CHAILLE” which means small stones.
This “climat” in the southern part of Nuits is planted on an alluvial cone, which indicates a large presence of stones. The soil is clayey, poor in limestone and contains “chailles”, a kind of reddish flint, rich in silica.
This very special type of soil has encouraged us to make a separate cuvée which characterizes by an abundant minerality, a very pure fruit expression, a quite strong acidity and a powerful body, which give it good aging qualities.

For some reason initially I felt somewhat lethargic, making a slow start. Early on in proceedings Michel passed by me in my row and volunteered, without any question or prompting, that Les Chaliots had the oldest vines in the domaine – interesting indeed albeit doubt I would have noticed without such advices. Always supa interesting to be with Michel as invariably he would provide some nugget of info appreciated by the likes of me. I’d like to believe he appreciated my wider interests in the terroirs, vines, etc etc were much more so than my colleagues. Hard work this day with, again, plenty of grapes in terms of quantity and with good looking quality from the lengthy rows. This was my first day this year of personally experiencing white grapes amongst the Pinot Noir – I believe Chardonnay. Not uncommon at all as I’ve experienced this before in other vendanges – I believe occurrence can stem from a Nurseryman (Pepiniere) inadvertently supplying the odd ‘wrong’ vine in a batch. A little extra care needed I find with moving from Pinot to unexpected Chardonnay when one has been used to the former, and particularly if strong sunlight is coming through the vines. For me, Chardonnay bunches can have an unwelcome ‘ability’ to hide behind foliage such that one can almost ‘guarantee’ if you don’t remove enough, appropriate, leaves then a bunch of Chardonnay grapes will remain there lurking ! I recall the first occasion coming across a Pepiniere was on a visit to Domaine Denis Bachelet, Gevrey, with my late father many years when said gentleman arrived during our visit – from ageing memory he was from some way away – might have been Jura, Savoie or similar. I recall also my father being fascinated by the conversation between Monsieur Bachelet and his supplier.

And so to the welcome lunch break for more nice meat and veg. Chatting to others I learnt the smaller team element had been to Morey-St-Denis that same morning to work the domaine’s Morey En la Rue de Vergy vines. Disappointing personally as I’d hoped to experience that plot but, hey ho, once can’t do everything. I finally, after lunch, managed to grab a moment with Juliette in respect of the domaine wi-fi with just enough moments to log in with my laptop for the first time. Knowing access to the office (bureau) for me would be an out of hours issue Juliette helpfully volunteered the range of the wi-fi was such that I should be able to connect from the near end of our dining cellar just across the yard and down the steps from the bureau – impressive. This was indeed the case as I was to find out, and very welcome, not least that evening as I was able to follow, online, via the BBC Sport website, Liverpool FC’s away win at Lask, Austria.

Post lunch back again to NSG Les Chaliots with by now it quite hot. We cut right down to the D (RN ?) 974 and, at odds with my slow start first thing, I felt I was cutting well here such that finishing my allocated rows strongly I was able to assist elsewhere. In my later notes (always tried to scribble brief thoughts re the day that same evening) I’ve written “frustration with pannier” – now I can’t, for the life of me, recall what I was referring to here doh !!!

I didn’t take many photos during our time in NSG Les Chaliots – no particular reasons other than being busy and/or it never really struck me there was much notable to photo – sorry !

Around circa 16.00 hrs we moved off to another new site. Before we did so, or specifically at least before the Toyota Land Cruiser crew did so, we had the unwelcome experience of some clouds of flying ants bothering us, initially me specifically as I waited, alone, by the car for the others to join me after collecting the full cases of grapes. If there was a (minor) downside to being a part of the Toyota crew (wasn’t a downside for me at all but welcome) it was we were invariably last away from any site hence if, at the end of the day, one wanted to be quickly back to the domaine, then one didn’t want to be a Toyota passenger, with owner/usual driver Michel always keen to oversee full case collection and fastidiously make sure nothing, including litter e.g. empty, used, drinks cups was left behind. One of Michel’s ‘oddities’, in a very nice way with yours truly, was he was at pains to exclude me from full case collection from rows onto tractor trailer – which I tried to help with several times. Again, this played for me to the impression I might be giving in health, posture, fatigue terms etc etc despite feeling A1!! In the end, after several such rebuffs I gave up, albeit was to have my moment on one occasion the following week. The plus factor in having to wait by the Toyota though for me was that brief welcome time alone whilst waiting for the others – invariably I’d use the time for photos and/or to collect the water ‘barrels’, empty them (if end of the day), and other stuff such as the cases holding drinks cups, clothing and ‘what have you’, loading the same into the rear of the SUV. In all my previous harvests I’ve never experienced the most unwelcome small clouds of bothersome flying ants as occurred here – they would feature again on another day. No idea why they featured this year and what would be quite differing locations.

Once we’d done the necessary in ‘Les Chaliots’ we moved off to join/catch up with the rest of the team. Our route initially puzzled me no end as we went into NSG then out of it on the D8 & over the main, busy, railway lines, towards the Autoroute. But, before reaching the latter, we turned left (roughly north) onto the D116 which took us past the Stade Jean Morin sports stadium (which had a very large travellers presence adjacent with some watchful Gendarmes present), then heading into the countryside before turning left past the Chateau de la Berchere hotel (a new one to me) onto the D109G then, heading back towards the railway lines, past the Aerodrome de Nuits-St-Georges. Shortly after passing the aerodrome, still in open countryside, realisation dawned on me we were about to arrive at the ‘below’ the railway lines large plot of vines at Boncourt-le-Bois I’d experienced before in my two years working for Domaine Michel Noellat. I’d had no idea Domaine Gros also had vines here (classification Bourgogne) – the Gros rows were somewhat further from the railway than those of Noellat. All made me wonder how many other Vosne (or other village) domaines had vines here in this quite extensively planted area (of both red and white varietals).

More looking north countryside from Boncourt-le-Bois

Vosne from Boncourt-le-Bois

Vosne2 from Boncourt-le-Bois

The rows here at Boncourt, stretching roughly north, were massively & dauntingly long – without doubt the longest rows I’ve come across and not really what a tiring vendangeur wants to see late in an afternoon !!! Apprehensively, I waited with interest to see how Michel and his lieutenants set us up here. Initially, a group of individuals were sent off on the long walk to the far side of the vineyard from us to start working their way back – probably not more than say 7/8 rows so covered. For the rest of us we were put 3 to a row (so with the far group 4 individuals to a row) to ‘leap frog each other working a section of row from one piquet (stake, pole) to another – a common way of working with more than one individual to a row. On this basis I was quite relieved and conscious we wouldn’t, given the time of day already, be here too long then I was quite happy. The vines had a mega weight of clean grapes here such that one was filling one’s bucket (pannier !) quite quickly. I can’t recall now if time allowed for us completing the row in terms of meeting the individuals working towards us – but I think we did. There would be a return to this site to complete it the following day but not for me as I wangled an opportunity elsewhere !

With a halt ultimately called the minibuses/vans departed leaving me alone for a while at the Toyota, my colleagues remaining dots in the far distance collecting full cases with two of the tractors. Eventually we made it back to the domaine by 18.00 hrs by which time I was feeling very, very tired – must be getting too old for this malarkey 😉. My pre supper shower was most welcome and once ready for the evening I took my laptop, and before settling down with it in the kitchen, tried the wi-fi connection standing outside the locked bureau – eureka, a good, immediate, connection.

Before finishing this piece I’m conscious I’ve not yet (without checking back) mentioned, or said much (if at all) about wines – an inappropriate omission ! So, what did we drink ? Well, three routine drinking occasions existed – lunch, pre-supper/dinner, and supper/dinner itself. For the first two of those occasions, throughout the harvest our drinking/consumption was of the same wine – pre-supper presented also with bottle(s) of cassis if one wanted to mix – I didn’t, not that I have anything against cassis but if I’m to have it I’d want to mix with white wine, preferably Aligote. This ‘common’ drinking wine was, for me, an unusual one of a kind I’d not come across before in other harvests at other domaines. It was initially explained to me by Pierre Gros and, if I understood correctly, the wine was derived by taking the final ‘matter’/waste from the wines proper (red and white) after one or two pressings, and then pressing that stuff again to produce the vin de soif (my term). When I first tried it, on Day 1, before understanding what it was, my initial impression/thoughts were I might be drinking a Passetoutgrain or similar. Whatever, it was a very acceptable drink and well suited as lunch/aperitif refreshment. Evenings, dinner wise, from the start Michel would select specific wines from the domaine cellar. I should have recorded these nightly but apologies for not doing so. Invariably, and initially, these selections would be a village classification domaine wine such that I believe we soon went through the range of the likes of NSG, Chambolle, Vosne, Morey & HCDN Rouge before we did move on to much appreciated likes of Clos des Reas, Vougeot etc. Most wines were 2021 but we did have a number of 2012s. Of the village wines over the first few evenings I particularly recall the Chambolle as a standout yum ! Curiously perhaps, typing this now, I realise that, other than the to come Paulee (to be covered idc) we never routinely of an evening had any domaine white wines – despite such existing via the domaine’s HCDN Chardonnay. I did ask a couple of times during the vendange, albeit never of Michel or Pierre, if the domaine had any Aligote & was always met with a negative ‘Non’ – in line with the domaine website having no mention of Aligote.

The evening closed satisfactorily other than towards the end of dinner the infantile Belgians table loudly & for some time continually chanting the name of Manchester City midfielder, and Belgian international, Kevin de Bruyne. Whether this was aimed at your’s truly as a Liverpool FC fan I’ve no idea but cared even less !

Tomorrow, our Day 6, would be a key one for our vendange – watch this space !

MdMdlV

Wednesday – typed 02/10/2023

This was a very interesting day I thought – in retrospect; but let’s not get ahead of ourselves. I wasn’t in the best of moods initially, having been kept awake past 2.00 a.m. by the noise made by the blasted Belgians. The morning dawned grey, with heavy clouds, temperature much cooler/fresher, although it was still warm, with everywhere very wet, although the rain had stopped. Initially, before heading to breakfast I went to my car for my rubber boots (new for this year green wellingtons) having already taken out from my luggage my waterproofs (cagoule and over trousers), rubber gloves and my latest knee pads – a heavyweight looking pair from De Walt which turned out to be great as they have two loop type fasteners top and bottom rather than an elastic top and loop bottom (my experience is the elastic straps soon stretch and thus make pads a poor top of the knee fit. The De Walts would hereafter become my preferred go to (other brands are available !).

Chat over breakfast with the senior guys inevitably turned to the previous night’s shenanigans. The common/usual morning greeting always routinely involves whether one had had a good sleep & doubtless, having been brought up a good Catholic (now somewhat lapsed) boy, I answered suitably here. The senior chaps have accommodation over the cuverie so they were ‘insulated’ from the worst but clearly aware of it. Michel was present, bless him, but was unblinking throughout. He’s such a lovely, nice man – clearly very tolerant, gentle, kind and doubtless seeing the best in everyone. Very definitely right up there with the nicest people I’ve met over the years in Burgundy. I couldn’t help but reflect, if it wasn’t around this time, that had similar circumstances occurred at Arlaud I very much doubt Herve Arlaud might have been so tolerant – I recalled one year when some younger types from Dijon misbehaved. They were not present the following day.

Early morning atmospheric NSG Aux Champs Perdrix awaiting teams arrival

Early morning harvesting machine in action – if an NSG 1er cru as think it was then scandalous)

M Gros Big Tractor on boundary of Aux Champs Perdrix & En la Perriere Noblet

View of NSG streets from Aux Champs Perdrix

View towards distant NSG Northern edge buildings & aerodrome beyond

View towards Vosne from NSG Aux Perdrix

Anyway, this impressed me no end, and all the more so when we got there, but breakfast conversation and similar in the Toyota once we’d set off, revolved around today’s terroir(s) having been purposely/specifically chosen for Les Caillottes (albeit not sure if this is the correct word but sounded like it). Essentially, due to the overnight rain, potentially sodden ground, Michel had chosen that we go high up and on stony ground (and how). At lunch from my ‘Climats & Lieux Dits’ bible I’d thought we’d been to NSG Les Argillats but only that evening, pouring over said book pre-supper, did Michel, seeing my studying, explain we’d been to Aux Champs Perdrix (a.m.) then shifted along (with only narrow grassed row between) to En la Perriere Noblot p.m. We were certainly high up, as high as vines get to. The manner in which Michel took the Toyota up there was very impressive and involved the low ratio gearbox (the only such occasion he used that). I’m not sure how the rest of the team eventually joined us, only seeing them arrive on foot, but guess they came by minibuses/vans as far as it was possible then walked up the rest of the way. Our Toyota crew were joined, whilst waiting for the full team, by one of the large vineyard tractors & trailer – so high were we, and so steep was it, that a vineyard tractor up there was an absolute non starter. Beyond the grass sward at the top of the rows was just scrub, vegetation, rocks and rough ground to the top of the hill. Also, whilst our initial ‘gang’ awaited the others I noted a harvesting machine somewhat below us and to our left towards Vosne. I couldn’t be sure where said machine was working but, to me, it seemed it more than likely must be in a premier cru terroir – not at all impressive if indeed the case.

Lunch Main Course 13th Pork & Garlic Potatoes

My room share top nice bloke Chef Jean-Michel

Afternoon view of Vosne from NSG En la Perriere Noblet

M Gros Big Tractor at top of NSG En la Perriere Noblet

We did quite a few passes up and down the vines in these climats – I noted 5/6 but am not sure now if that was the full day or just morning or afternoon. The afternoon saw 60 cases taken to the domaine. Big quantity and super quality all day. I could certainly see why Michel had chosen today’s sites as, despite the overnight weather we didn’t get too dirty or muddy. It was here late on I witnessed a notable, fascinating, technique I’d never seen before on such a scale in any vines but basically this was a (full) cases carrying ‘train’ – the most impressive here I saw must have involved about 10/11 individuals with similar number of cases where one man (unless at front or back) had one hand on one case in front of him, his other hand on the case behind. Quite amusing and impressive to see such a case ‘train’ emerge from a steep row & an excellent technique to retrieve the relevant number of cases for transfer to tractor trailer and then on to the domaine.

Lunch today was most excellent – the main course a chunk of pork loin/steak with garlic potatoes. Yum!

Grapes from NSG En la Perriere Noblet

Some of the 60 afternoon full cases awaiting collection in NSG En la Perriere Noblet

Team rest break top of NSG En la Perriere Noblet

Team rest break2 top of NSG En la Perriere Noblet

Not so impressive was the Belgian ‘children’ being ‘at it’ again in the vines as featured throughout the vendange involving throwing bunches of grapes around, at each other, and at other unsuspecting victims. If this wasn’t ridiculous enough they took things to another level on occasion by filling the odd bucket with mud, grapes etc then finding a victim to sneak up on & empty it all over. Several times I had grapes whistle around me when I was bent picking. I was never sure if such were meant for me, probably not, but I was unimpressed from the point of view of having my camera slung around my back when not grabbing a chance to use it.

Afternoon view of Vosne from NSG En la Perriere Noblet

Another NSG Street View

View of NSG into the combe under low cloud

During an afternoon rest break I was intrigued to note a younger guy who’d only joined us that morning with a friend was wearing a Domaine Arlaud tee shirt. In friendly conversation with him he was intrigued at my 9 year involvement there & explained he’d worked two harvest with Arlaud (after my last there).

We finished the afternoon slightly earlier than usual as we were back at the domaine before 17.00hrs. On the way back to the domaine I enjoyed a brief watch from the car of a kestrel hovering low over the vines not too far from us. I was to see a bird of prey for most days, including later in the Hautes-Cotes, and not always Kestrels but sometimes unidentifiable (by me) small hawks & occasional buzzard rather than falcons. An ornithological aspect I did note this year was the strange total absence of swallow and/or house martins. I’ve always been used to seeing swallows swoop over the vines, sometimes in past years almost seeming to head straight for you before flashing away. What I wasn’t seeing here this year had been mirrored at home in England when I’d already noticed I’d not seen the usual summer visitors. No idea why unless migration conditions to Northern Europe had been particularly affected in 2023.

The other smaller picking team had spent the day in Chambolle.

Gear cleaning on our return was minimal in the circumstances – welcome !

I did have some weird camera issues during the afternoon which I could only put down to maybe damp getting in the on/off switch, or moveable zoom but ultimately all seemed ok in the end. I was also by now reminding myself at regular intervals to check the settings wheels on the top of the Canon G16 as its quite ‘easy’ that such get caught and without one realising once can be attempting to take photos without the right set up – for obvious reasons I have to use the ‘Auto’ setting default.

A quieter evening thank goodness, post meal for me focused on my now routine photo downloading, resizing and captioning. Day 5 would be quite different again and see our first, and only, venture south of NSG.

MdMdlV

Tuesday – typed 30/9/23

Was up at 6.00 a.m. this day, start had been pre-advised at 8.00 a.m.

Matters went a little awry for yours truly before we set off as, mustering with others at the front of the domaine/in the yard, once again my attention was irresistibly drawn to the water obsessed Jack Russell terrier mentioned in my Day 2 words. Long a dog lover, ‘shaped’ by my Mother’s love of dogs which meant invariably as a family we always had one or two dogs, I went to stroke the very focussed terrier but, like lightning, before I had a chance to pull back my hand, he bit hard on my left forefinger gashing the skin and causing blood flow. The dog really was quick ! All sorts of thoughts of the likes of rabies, infection from the dog’s dirty water fascination, etc etc all passed quickly through my mind whilst I contemplated my bleeding, gashed, and quite/very painful finger. One of the more senior ladies, seeing my plight, insisted we return to the accommodation house ground floor room where a first aid kit was produced, my finger sprayed with something, then carefully plastered and bandaged up. Unfortunately, inside a hot, sweaty, glove the bandage didn’t last long and after a couple of replacements I gave up & did without. My finger was painful along the gash line for about a week but ok thereafter and no other ill effects – perhaps fortunately. My wife and daughter have, for years, been telling me off for stroking ‘strange dogs’ & I could just imagine their likely combined reactions of ‘told you so’ and mega amusement (as inevitably the case on my eventual return to the UK).

View down the cuverie – cement tanks to left

Evening grapes delivery – Pierre Gros in light grey hoody

Once the above ‘distraction’ was over we once again headed to Vosne La Colombiere to conclude activities there from the previous afternoon. Once again the majority of the team were on foot, walking to the site whilst, slightly embarrassingly, Michel called out to yours truly, again insisting I take the Land Cruiser front seat – who was I to argue 😉. The rear of the Toyota always importantly carried our (plastic) water ‘barrels’, cups, and various other bits and pieces. We finished La Colombiere without incident or note circa mid-morning and now came some excitement ! Maybe not for the walking team who once again were on foot from La Colombiere to……….drum roll !!!!………..Richebourg Grand Cru, or maybe more accurately, Les Veroilles ou Richebourg, with our (the car individuals) entering the site through a gap in northern edge brick wall. Whilst we waited for the walking group to arrive one of the Gros vineyard tractors arrived (for subsequent case collecting) but my attention was drawn to another domaine already working in Richebourg adjacent to our rows. A smartly dressed lady clearly seemed to be in charge & readily exchanged pleasantries with yours truly whilst I took photos of elements of her team, some notably keen to have their pictures taken. I had no idea who this other team were until some days later when, showing Michel some of my photos, he explained (relating the historic family divison of, and holdings in, Richebourg) that the lady was Caroline Parent, and in another photo the older gentleman (with wrap around shades) was her father Francois Parent – of Domaine Parent, Pommard.

Vosne La Colombiere grapes (1)

Caroline Parent talking to father Francois (in shades)

Domaine Parent porter in Richebourg

Domaine Parent Vendangeurs at Richebourg entrance

My 1st Richebourg grapes (they got better)

M Gros Full Richebourg case1

In my wildest vendange dreams, going back to Chassagne 2006, I’d never envisaged working in:- a) Vosne-Romanee; or b) a terroir such as Richebourg GC hence to be here was something of a ’pinch me’ moment. We worked here, with 2 row passes, until lunch. Once my initial excitement at being in Richebourg was over, & I was working, then ultimately it was just another set of vines etc. For my rows I wasn’t ultimately terribly/overly impressed by vines or grapes though. Michel did explain to me at one point that the vines belonged to an aunt in the family yet this lady would never allow replanting for some reason. Back to Vosne for lunch – so glad I wasn’t walking, and at same time feeling sorry for those who were – this was day 3 and, apart from the small team working other sites separately who were en vehicule, the majority had yet to experience transport ! Lunch main course meatballs and rice.

Gros In Vines Tractor arrives Richebourg

Gros Team in Richebourg start or rest break

M Gros Full Richebourg cases

Domaine M Gros sub team rest break Richebourg

My Sub Team & Others on Richebourg rest break

Back to the same area post lunch, but Richebourg had been finished, and now the southern element of Vosne premier cru Aux Brulees, adjacent to Richebourg, was to be the subject of our afternoon attentions. The rows here were long. I found the afternoon notably tiring & was asked a few times “Was I OK” – which made me wonder at my own appearance ! As we completed the last rows of Brulees, on a corner, as the road swings, and at the end of a row of vines was a memorial headstone to a Monsieur Ecard. I’d never seen anything like this in vines previously in any vendange. I was subsequently to learn the late J-F Ecard had been a domaine employee, and husband of senior lady employee, sub team leader/in vine triager, and bucket cleaner, Odile. I could only assume the location of the memorial stone perhaps reflected some particular spot of significance.

Aux Brulees memorial to former domaine employee (and husband of Odile)

Vosne View over Aux Brulees

M Gros Vineyard Tractor against Vosne Aux Brulees angry sky

Michel Gros age 67 setting picking example

Twin Sister Vendangeurs wow (1)

Halt called at 17.11 p.m. Back at the cuverie, ahead of the main, on foot, ‘pack’, I took the opportunity to grab some cuverie photos, had my first shave since arrival and, praise the lord, proper hot water was now available for the shower ! Pre supper, more than one person from the walking brigade, in passing mentioned on the return from Aux Brulees that someone had been asking about me !!! I was bemused by this but after a little thought had to assume it must be a roving Mr Nanson !

M Gros Tractor Musclemen

Lunch

China’s Fon Fon with unique hat

Belgian Mother & Daughter pre supper music recital (1)

Young Italian couple at lunch – owners of Acho

Our evening supper was notable for trouble and bad behaviour from one dining table which included a group of 20 something male Belgians, who’s in vine antics had already left me wholly unimpressed. Here they were throwing food around, very noisy, and just a collective, embarrassing, pain in the proverbial. I had intended to work on my laptop but, disgusted, at 21.00 hrs decided an early night was preferable. Unfortunately, considerable noise, continued until past 2.00 a.m. – not conducive to sleep. The evening had previously brought some thunder and eventually rain which became increasingly heavy for most of the night – wet weather gear seemingly would be the order of the day on the ‘morrow – mental note to self to get my rubber boots (‘wellies’ in England) from the car. The rain and its aftermath would ‘drive’ our activities on Day 4.

MdMdlV