Most important news of the day…

By billn on May 05, 2022 #sad losses...

I don’t know if the gentleman – now with only one ball – was invited to this ceremony!

recent wines – week 17 2022

By billn on May 02, 2022 #degustation

2016 Buisson-Charles, Chablis Vaudésir
Patrick Essa has been making a range of maison wines for a few years now. This was served blind and had a ripeness yet energy that made me think of the best producers in Mâconnais – but not Pouilly-Fuisse. There was a modestly exotic style to the fruit but a clean attack that should have reminded me that 2016 is quite a favourite of mine in Chablis. Overall, a great wine for such a ‘non-standard’ Chablis, yet one that properly reflects the vintage there. It drank great for the whole night!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Vincent Dancer, Meursault Les Grands Charrons
Another wine of supple, slightly exotic flavours – at this age the vintage completely outshining the place. Another wine that you would justly call delicious despite, in this case, having no single feature that you might consider Murisaltien! Yum!
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Another wine that was served blind, and what a tour de force of a nose – much more mature than you expect from the vintage, full of sous-bois and enticing mature character. It seemed to me to be a warmer vintage so I considered 1997 or 2000 to be suitable vintages and perhaps from a very place – such as Chapelle-Chambertin… So much for blind guessing! But this was a wine that was completely on song – the first to be opened from this case, no-less!
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Camille & Laurent Schaller, Chablis
Here’s a wine with no hint of the 2020 greens – just a very attractive and properly mineral yet tasty wine. All as it should be from this (otherwise) excellent vintage. Super!
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
When released, this wine was one of my joint-top-three Volnays of the vintage – it wasn’t possible to separate this from Lafon’s Santenots or d’Angerville’s Ducs – 3-4 years later this was clearly in third place – though still something great. This may, unfortunately, be my last bottle – unfortunately, because it was such a bravura wine – concentrated, clean, complex, a little muscular, even a little young – certainly younger than the 2010 Rion. But a beauty – a real beauty! Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis 1er Montmains
As the previous bottle – great wine from an excellent vintage. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – Angerville 2020

By billn on May 01, 2022 #the market

The prices from my usual merchant in Switzerland:

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville 2020 (in brackets the prices of the 2019s, 2018s and then the 2016s – I never saw 2017s…)
Volnay 1er Cru 2020 75cl 85.00 (79.00, 75.00, —)* (Swiss Francs)
Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru 2020 75cl 115.00 (105.00, 105.00, 105.00)
Volnay Champans 1er Cru 2020 75cl 149.00 (129.00, 129.00, 129.00)
Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru 2020 75cl 248.00 (215.00, 198.00, —)

These 2020s are available for delivery only at the end of this year. The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax. That’s a jump!

a few bottles, mainly from last week…

By billn on April 28, 2022 #degustation

Just a few wines that were drunk before last weekend – the weekend wines will follow – but what can I remember? 😉

2016 Raphaël Chopin, Beaujolais Lantignie La Savoye
Full coloured – and with a ton of tartrate rubble to deposit in the last glass too! Full, warm-weather aromatic but not cooked. Really impressive size for this wine – more than the 2019, for instance. Supple, layered, concentrated but just about avoiding ‘heavy.’ Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Cyril Gauthier, Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
One of my new ‘house wines’ for this year – but showing the problem of 2020: Not a hint of pyrazine from the tank-sample at the domaine but clearly there’s a lick of it here. Yet! The same bottle on day 2, neither I nor my equally sensitive better half could find any – it was just fabulous. So, I will be decanting this an hour or 2 beforehand. I seem to be already down to my last 8 bottles – oups!
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Domaine d’Henri, Chablis 1er Fourchaume Héritage
Right out of the gates – great wine. Of course, still a baby – but a mineral and citrus-infused wine that was completely delicious and as classic as you can imagine any Chablis to be from the last 6-7 years. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Frederic Berne, Régnié Aux Bruyères
Silky, concentrated, pure class in a glass!
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Practically undrinkable young (for this palate) with its heavy cigarette-ash oaky nose – but now it’s in great shape. Admittedly, a strong aromatic remains – one that’s now a mix of tobacco and sous-bois – but lovers of mature wine will be purring. Balanced, layered deliciously complex mature wine. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Altitude 377
Anyone brought up on the Bourgognes of the 1990s and onwards will be shocked by how good the Bourgognes of today can be – and here’s another. Despite being Boris’s first vintage and really only being present for the harvest and elevage of this wine – it’s lovely. Fine open, pure-red-fruited delicious stuff. There’s fine energy as you might expect from the Hautes Côtes but there’s depth and class to this flavour too. His 2020s were even better when tasted last year. Super wine!
Rebuy – Yes

And the winner is? Yes, it’s Jon Wyand, again…

By billn on April 27, 2022 #annual laurels

You have to hand it to Jon Wyand, winner of the 2022 Errazuriz wine-photographer of the year competition. Or more correctly the “PinkLady®Food Photographer of the Year – category Errazuriz Wine Photographer of the Year” – I hope it’s a big trophy to fit all that in, and his name!

But seriously, Jon is just so consistent. He has an eye for possibilities with his camera that I can only applaud. I love both his still lives and the ease of his subjects in his portraits – his winning shot this year is a combination of both – captioned by the BBC as ‘Winter prunings gathered in the vineyards of Corton Hill in Burgundy’ it is a photo taken by Jon before 8am in December, in Bressandes…

You can find the wider BBC report here.

Jon Wyand - gathering the prunings in Corton
Image courtesy of Jon Wyand

Beaune’s Bike to Care?

By billn on April 26, 2022 #events

Bike to Care

With significant impetus from, it seems, the team at Louis Jadot, there’s a charity event lined up for Beaune on Monday-Tuesday/9-10 May. Two days of teams biking (cycling!) courses in the Côte de Beaune/Hautes Côtes and the Côte de Nuits/Hautes Côtes – both courses approaching 100km, or 60 miles, in length.

As described by the website which supports this initiative:

“Over the course of the past year, our friends in the restaurant business have been living through exceptionally challenging times. In order to thank them for their fidelity to our business, to support them and to stimulate their continued interest in their business, we are launching a dynamic project that we hope will encourage industry solidarity: Bike to Care en Bourgogne

The aim is to raise funds to support the restaurant and hotel trade given their less than productive 2 years during the many covid-related closures and confinements.

Teams of cyclists will be made up of chefs, sommeliers and hoteliers from France and abroad – there is also a section for journalists – though apparently this group seem less energetic and takers were few and far between. In that context Frédéric Barnier of Louis Jadot got in touch with me; I’m no cyclist – my bike has done 10km in the last 5 years! – but I suggested that I could run. Of course, not the full 60 miles – I may be stupid but I’m not that stupid 😉

So, I shall be running the last section of Monday’s Beaune – South Loop – the small matter of Santenay to Beaune – 20km. If, from distance, you’d like to support this event and make a small donation to the cause, I shall be part of the team ‘PARTENAIRES FRANCE’ so please feel free to contribute using this link: PARTENAIRES FRANCE

And, of course, if you are in or around Beaune on that day, feel free to cheer us all along our way
The route is here

offer of the day – clos de tart 2020

By billn on April 25, 2022 #the market

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Here are the Clos de Tart 2020s from my local merchant.

You can compare these prices to those of the 2019, 2018, 2017 & 2016s which are in the brackets – from the same merchant source. — indicates ‘not offered.’

Onwards and upwards for the pricing here – but as a benchmark, almost the same price as DRC’s 2019 Grands-Echézeaux – assuming that you are on the ‘first-tier’ list of the distributors, and half the price (okay nearly 60%) of DRC’s Richebourg and Romanée Saint-Vivant…

Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2020 75cl 648.00 (595.00, 498.00, 498.00, 448.00)* Swiss francs
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2020 150cl 1,356.00 (—, 1,050.00, 1,026.00, 926.00)
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2020 300cl 2,842.00 (2,630, 2,300.00, 2,042, 2,042.00)
La Forge de Tart 1er Cru 2020 75cl 195.00 (—, 189.00, 169.00, 188.00)

* Including delivery, but not including Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%

clos de vougeot/citeaux auction – and the results were…

By billn on April 25, 2022 #events

Citeaux - Clos de VougeotFollowing on from this report, and tasting here.

And so, on Saturday evening, came the end of the almost week-long auction to benefit the Abbey of Citeaux. The proceeds of the sale totalling totalling €797,750 / $870,000…

The highest prices went to wines – often in large format – that were donated by other domaines for the gala dinner – there was even a little German Riesling on offer – but the prices of the bottles of the Clos de Vougeot were quite strong too – with prices averaging between 400 and 600 Euros per bottle for the 75cls – starting in lots of three and including the buyer’s premium before 6-packs and then larger format bottles. These wines are planned to be bottled in August, this year,

And for the fun of it, the top-ten lots by price, were:

Lot 130: La Tâche 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1 Jeroboam, sold for €100,000
Lot 128: Montrachet, The exceptional harvest of 7 Domaines 2016 Montrachet Producers, 1 bottle, sold for €93,750
Lot 127: Clos de Vougeot 2016 Comte Liger-Belair, 1 Jeroboam, sold for €30,000
Lot 126: Clos de Vougeot 1988 Domaine Leroy, 3 bottles, sold for €27,500
Lot 132: Bonnes Mares 2015 Domaine Georges Roumier, 1 Magnum with Experience, sold for €27,500
Lot 133: Chambertin 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau, 1 Magnum, sold for €23,750
Lot 129: Musigny 2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, 1 Jeroboam, sold for €23,750
Lot 112: Clos de Vougeot, Cuvée de l’Abbaye de Cîteaux 2020 Clos de Vougeot Producers, 1 Balthazar, sold for €17,500
Lot 135: Musigny Vieilles Vignes and Bonnes Mares 2019 Comte Georges de Vogüé, 2 Magnums with Experience, sold for €13,750
Lot 113: Clos de Vougeot, Cuvée de l’Abbaye de Cîteaux 2020 Clos de Vougeot Producers, 1 Balthazar, sold for €13,750

And that wasn’t the only auction this weekend…

Baghera continues to unearth quantities of René Engel wines, this time 282 bottles and 24 magnums and raising almost as much as the Clos de Vougeot sale.

All here

2020 Beaujolais Report – online…

By billn on April 21, 2022 #reports

Moulin à Vent - February 202068 domaines visited in February – all the reports plus my summation are now online. There are also another 14 from Beaujolais which will come in the March Report.

As of the end of February, that’s the wines and thoughts of over 290 domaines that have been published since beginning my tour of Burgundy’s 2020 vintage – and you can be sure that I didn’t stop in March!

One or two domaines, during bottling for instance, are preferring (already!) to show their 2021s – but for now, they remain rare – the normal changeover to the new vintage comes around July. I’ve another 43 domaines already visited so will easily pass 350 domaines before the 21s start to dominate.

Anyway, enjoy the 2020 Beaujolais Report – there is much to enjoy in this vintage, despite higher than average alcohols…

Burgundy Report

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