Degustation

A few magnums of 2015 Fleurie :)

By billn on October 25, 2021 #degustation

2015 Fleurie - magnums

I was tasting a bunch of 19s and 20s today – but when I got the chance to taste some older wines from magnum…

They started a bit rustic but became better and better and that’s the vintage – some great wines and many very good wines that are less sophisticated…

2015 Cave des Producteurs des Grands Vins de Fleurie, Fleurie
Now thats deeply coloured! An inky deep nose with that faint marsala accent of impending maturity that many BJs develop. Big, structural, still lots of drying tannin – some nice flavour complexity in the finish – but this structured wine begs at least 2 or three more years in the cellar.

2015 Marrans, Fleurie Clos du Pavillon
Also deeply coloured. A more compact nose with some faint pepper-spice. A width of chunky flavour here that’s both melting and mouth-watering – almost a 2015 that you can start drinking. Long finishing through a little tannin and a nice extra floral accent…

2015 Château de Fleurie, Fleurie La Madone Réserve Caveau
Lots of colour – of course! Quite a silky nose, faintly spiced and wide. Supple but becoming massive in the mouth and with plenty of tannin in the back end – wide, faintly but long finishing. Very good, but definitely for keeping a few years more…

2015 Thierry Condamine, Fleurie Les Moriers
Strongly coloured but transparent. The nose, like most here, showing the onset of faintly spiced maturity, the pepper more to the fore. Here is lovely energy – concentrated and structured but neither impose themselves too much. The finish is delicious – less dense but the most approachable of all these wines so far. Lovely wine.

2015 Lafarge-Vial, Fleurie La Joie du Palais
Plenty of colour – though a little younger looking than some. Round, fresher, sleeker, super texture, lots of flavour energy too. There’s some textural drag from the tannin – there’s no grain – which suggests waiting but this is, frankly already great – Bravo!

2015 Chateau Poncié, Fleurie les Moriers
The darkest, deepest, colour of all – almost saturated. A nose of some roundness and a slight Mushroom de Paris accent. Full, mouth-filling – but so fresh and saline accented. The tannin is beautifully fine and shows with practically no dryness. Only a suggestion of oak to be seen right at the end of the finish – the only wine where it’s visible. Also great, but very different from the Lafarge-Vial – bravo again!

Three B’s – Birthday, Bâtard & Bonnes-Mares

By billn on October 16, 2021 #degustation

Thunersee, Eiger, Monch & Jungfrau from Schadau
The three peaks to the left; the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau. The big (closer) one on the right is the Niesen.

I said that there would be some birthday wines – but first, today came a nice walk in the shadow of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains as seen over lake Thun – not bad!

Another recipe from Tanya Grandits and a couple of decent wines too:

2016 Olivier Leflaive, Bâtard-Montrachet
This is a domaine wine. For a number of years, O Leflaive produced the better wines of the two producers of that name in Puligny, certainly from the 2006 vintage. Only from this 2016 vintage had Domaine Leflaive pulled up their bootstraps sufficiently to have at least equivalent quality. 2016, despite the wines’ frosty rarity, is one of my favourite vintages for whites – some critics, bizarrely, describe this as poor vintage, with too many ‘over-concentrated’ wines. Bullshit I say!
Still a very young colour. That’s a very good if not quite great nose – mineral, deeply white-flower-scented and accented with a little caramel – some of that depth undoubtedly coming from a slight firework reduction. Direct, mineral, concentrated and oh-so-pure flavoured. This wine opening out so impressively in the finish – a great, great finish that somehow sustains itself like a mythical perpetual-motion machine – wow! Crystalline, chiselled, with the purity of a waterfall – never for a second do you think that there is insufficient energy for the concentration on hand, never for a moment do you think ‘fat.’ Bravo – this is a grand vin for sure – drinking brilliantly but with a life that will extend to decades with this DIAM10 seal.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
I have often recounted that Bonnes-Mares can be a wine that’s a bit too brutal for me, hence, I (generally – the 2005 de Vogüé excepted!) prefer to give them a few years in the cellar. A six-pack of this wine was bought on release – this is one of the last, perhaps the last, that I have.
Deeply coloured. Oof! What a nose! So large that you have much of the detail long before your nose is in the glass: Very clean – not a hint of bret or any other unhappy signs of age, deeply impressive notes of soil, tobacco, turned leaves in an Autumn forest – and even fruit too – if rather bloody fruit! Seemless concentration in the mouth – this wine is coming into a great place for both flavour and texture. I’d like a hint more energy to really beg me to take the next glass but the flavour is just so good that I’m anyway on message. Big, big wine – grand cru wine – but also a wine that can caress!
Rebuy – Yes and who wouldn’t at the old price!

my weekend wines – week 40 2021

By billn on October 11, 2021 #degustation

week 40 2021 wines

2019 Louis-Clement David-Beaupaire, Beaujolais Villages
Pale coloured – more of a heavy rosé. The nose is that attractively fecund invitation that comes with many of the natural persuasion but behind is more than a suggestion of perfume and fine fruit. The flavour is equally natural but delicious – rarely are natural wines also terroir wines and that’s certainly the case here but it’s still a fun wine. Tasty and enjoyed though I wouldn’t look to cellar it much longer…
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay 1er Les Gravières
That’s a serious looking DIAM 10 Origine seal.
Plenty of colour for a Santenay in 2017. The nose draws you in – not just a width but a depth of cherry-red fruit too. Direct, beautifully fresh for the vintage – at first silky, then a little tannin that emphasises the relative youth of this wine. A faint twist of barrel too. I very much like the shape – the architecture – of this wine but it’s elevated to the next level when coupled to such purity of flavour. No simple 2017 this, it’s a great example of what was possible in the Côte de Beaune in this vintage. Deliciously bravo despite its youth!
Rebuy – Yes

And another 2016 Beblenheim Riesling from the family Trapet of Gevrey-Chambertin – this case is now almost gone – you know that I will have to make a replacement purchase!

Grivot’s 1999 Clos de Vougeot…

By billn on October 07, 2021 #degustation

1999 jean grivot clos de vougeot

I last remember attacking some 1999 Clos de Vougeots some 7 years ago – they were all young but some were still drinking enjoyably. Time to try another:

1999 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot
This from a cheeky half-bottle – but not such a cheeky wine! The cork is tightly in place and needs some energy to remove – it’s robust but embarrassingly short for a grand cru – 44mm – did it have a role to play in my lack of enthusiasm? Probably!
Still deeply coloured though starting to show some browning. The nose is powerful and deep – but faintly oxidative and there’s a suggestion of brett too. Mouth-filling and with a super texture despite the structural architecture of the wine – impressive but also with a modest suggestion of oxidation in the flavour. Very concentrated and a little saline. For the first glass, I remain impressed by the shape and texture but not by the grace or any of the flavours of the wine. The finish is impressively long if also lacking any semblance of deliciousness. The second glass brings no relief. On the positive side, I didn’t pay for a whole bottle of this – though presumably, those longer corks may have done a better job…
Rebuy – No

2007 vosne 1er beaux-monts…

By billn on October 06, 2021 #degustation

2007 Daniel Rion Vosne Beaux-Monts2007 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
The cork comes out relatively easily and in one piece – not a given, even with wines of such youth!
The first couple of sips leave me with the impression that this is still a bit too oaky – but I shouldn’t be too hasty – within 5 minutes of opening this is singing; aromatically complex, involving and a spiced fruit invitation to drink. Likewise, the flavours unfold with beautiful balance and captivating layers – this is really showing impressively great. Day two – no faults – no brett or anything like that – but the wine is a little more compact and certainly less involving. Tasty, very good but modest versus the greatness it showed on day one – so don’t leave any for another day 🙂
Rebuy – Yes

week 39: the last harvesting days, @louvre_lens & some wines

By billn on October 04, 2021 #degustation#travel pics#travels in burgundy 2021#vintage 2021

week 39 wines...We’ve just returned from a (necessary) week in the UK – so my harvesting this year was cut a little short – that said – my home team in Beaune still managed to finish in September, just!

The major part of the harvest was completed on Saturday (25th) and their Paulée followed on the Sunday. Their last parcel to be picked is always some vines high in Pommard – Les Vaumuriens – often 3-4 days after the rest of the harvest due to the altitude of these vines – but this year they were picked not for full maturity, rather they were picked to avoid the heavy rains that were forecast at the end of the week – 12.5° was not a bad result though and capped 10 days of harvesting for the team.

Apart from our Charlemagne that brought in 30 hl/ha, most of the rest were between 15-25 hl/ha. The Charlemagne was saved by 3 nights of using candles to counter the worst of the frost – at a cost of ~€5,000 per hectare per night – and the domaine owning just over 1/3rd of a hectare here – so that was at a cost of €5,000. Given a price of over €100 a bottle for this grand cru, that’s less than 5 cases of wine so a cost that could easily be absorbed but you can see how quickly that becomes uneconomical as the bottle price reduces.

The team were making their first ‘decuvage’ today and whilst it’s clearly a vintage where the triage was paramount, they are happy that it was done well as the latent wines taste good with no detectable taints.

Below, I include the notes of a few wines that were, mainly, drunk in the UK.

On the way back to Burgundy from the UK we decided to stop at the Louvre-Lens Museum. It more than breaks up the journey, it’s a super location – free to enter but, should you wish, you can make a donation – with a packed restaurant too which, next time, I’d like to try. The next stop was for a few plates of tapas in Chablis’ Why Not – here a bottle of Tribut from the list – more on that below. Finally, to Beaune to sleep and take in the very rainy Sunday!

1998 Guy Castagnier, Clos de la Roche
Not bright and clean but still an inspiring nose – on of purity of fruit and a decadence that implored me to drink – so I did. Deeply flavoured, beautifully fresh – just a little muddled in the long finishing flavours today. Probably to start drinking up but still with plenty of pleasure.
Rebuy – Yes

1996 Leroy SA, Bourgogne
Less depth of colour vs the Castagnier – but clean and bright – actually not so old looking. Complex, a little spice – racy red fruit too – another good aroma. In the mouth, I find unexpected concentration and depth of flavour. This is very, very good. Of course, simpler than the grand cru but with great personality and flavour. Great Bourgogne – bravo – luckily a few more remain at home!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 JC Fagot, Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles-Vignes
An impressive provenance – which I’m not allowed to reveal – that’s why JC had only one barrel – but it’s a beauty. Richly aromatic – ripe but pure – a certain impression of salinity too. In the mouth, the salinity is replaced with a slightly minty attitude to equally rich flavour – not a bruiser by any means though. Beautifully constructed wine – simply excellent.
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Laurent Tribut, Chablis
Ordered from the wine-list – and I’m a bit disappointed by this one – I suppose it serves me right for not being sufficiently adventurous as I’ve had a few of these and they have all been great. This wine, however, has a slightly apple-y hint of oxidation to it. Direct from the fridge (I took the rest home) you will barely notice until the wine starts to warm in the glass after which it’s as clear as day. Sub-standard vs all my previous great bottles.
Rebuy – No – though previous bottles were great.

2018 Château Rougeon, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains La Chapelle
Predominantly (72%) Gamay
What a simply delicious wine – from top to toe – aromatically interesting, beautifully textured, long and deliciously flavoured too. Great Passetoutgrains – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

Some images from the week:

The 108th edition of the Tastevinage tasting

By billn on October 02, 2021 #degustation

As usual, my invitation to taste came too late for me to actually taste – but I do already have the date for the Spring tasting in March next year 🙂

This tasting was on Friday 10th September and included 411 wines assessed by 100 tasters.

136 of these wines were assessed as meriting the Tastevinage label, of which 43 wear a Bourgogne label, 48 villages, 41 premier cru and, finally, 4 grand crus – there are relatively fewer and fewer grand crus presented these days.

If you click on this link, you can find the list of successful producers and their wines.

the weekend wines – week 36 2021

By billn on September 13, 2021 #degustation

2019 Jean-Claude Lapalu, Beaujolais Villages Le Rang du Merle
A Bordeaux bottle! Late-picked grapes, ‘not much extraction’
A nose that takes some coaxing from the glass, but it is cool, complex and inviting. This is concentrated wine – very red-fruited – it’s silky wine too with only a faint accent of tannin. Very delicious. On day two, despite overnight in the fridge – there are some more developed, meaty notes – drink up and enjoy on day one!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 François Gaunoux, Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or
Freshly yellow coloured. This nose starts a little reductive, needing about 20 minutes in the glass to bring clarity and no shortage of flinty, mineral, aroma. Ooh, that’s a bit of a brute – concentrated, structural, mineral and just so young – the slightly reductive feeling never leaving the flavours. Structurally similar but the flavours seem quite different compared to when last opened – about two years ago.
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Joseph Roty, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
After last week’s ‘ultra-easy’ 2010 Gevrey Brunelle I thought that I’d check in on this one.
This nose is deep, red-fruited, a little narrow and showing some obvious aromatic development – not the ultra inviting purity of fruit of the first 8-9 years. In the mouth this retains a nice shape and energy, the fruit is tasty too. But like the nose this has now lost that ravishingly beautiful combination of fruit purity and energy that commanded ‘drink me.’ I only have a couple of remaining bottles from this 12-pack and they will still be enjoyed, I just won’t wait too long!
Rebuy – Yes – but now from later vintages…

a couple of swift ones…

By billn on September 03, 2021 #degustation

a couple of swift ones...2019 Cyril Gautheron, Chablis 1er Montmains Vieilles-Vignes
One of this year’s house wines…
This has a nice stony/rocky impression to the nose with just a twist of citrus – that’s a fine invitation. In the mouth this is broad over the palate, missing some of extra ‘chiselled’ impression that it gave me at the domaine pre-bottling. This slightly fatter style than I expected doesn’t detract from the delicious flavours but it does make for a wine that doesn’t challenge me as much as I’d been looking forward to. Yum – and, of course, with a lot of time on its side…
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin La Brunelle
My first from this 6-pack. Talking of not be challenged…
Medium colour – but still a young-looking colour. Round, easy red fruit on the nose – very primary. Hmm, it’s Roty and it’s Gevrey but where’s the challenge? This is round, simple and red-fruited – almost a kids’ cordial fruit style – hardly any structure, certainly silky and with a little undertow of creamy oak. Far too easy to drink! Actually, I think their 2010 BGO (and I haven’t finished my 12-pack of that yet) to be a more interesting drink at the moment. Easy but also primary, delicious but with hardly any visible structure – for this combination of producer and place I’m amazed. I hope it gains a bit of ‘oomph’ with time, as such I probably won’t return for at least 3-4 years…
Rebuy – Maybe

Burgundy Report

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