week 45 visits #2018BurgundyReport

By billn on November 09, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Back home for a very short weekend before taking the road back to Beaune tomorrow evening.

My last visits for the ‘2018 whites’ report are now made, and I’ve already started the transition to building up the list of red domaines. As a teaser for the forthcoming reports, you can see the mugshots of this week’s unfortunate victims!

a bottle or two…

By billn on November 08, 2019 #degustation

Just to show that I haven’t been ignoring my responsibilities these last couple of weeks – here’s the majority of bottles pulled from my own cellar in that time. I hold almost no notes in my head, but the basic impressions remain:

The Armand Volnay was 2017, actually a sinuous and delicious drink already.
Vocoret 2015 Chablis VV – more muscular again but über-mineral and it sang of Chablis.
Longère 2017 Beaujolais Blanc – Nos 2 Elles – rich and ripe yet each glass seemed better and better – a rare delicious BJB!
2007 Lafon, Monthelie 1er Les Duresses. This has really opened since I last looked – blossomed, even. Complex, very Volnay aromatically, just a little structure on the palate but no sharp edges, no rigour – drinking very well!
2015 Nicolas Rouget, Chorey-lès-Beaune – This had a lovely freshness, it drank superbly well for the appellation. Nicolas the (one of the) son(s) of Emmanuel of Flagey. If I understand correctly, this may have been a bit of an experiment, hence, not bottled under Emmanuel’s name, but now I think Emmanuel uses his own label.
2017 David Duband, Côte de Nuits Villages. Fabulous – simply great CVDN Villages. Plenty of colour, life, richness and freshness combined – bravo wine!
Chateau Rougeon Aligoté Arénites 2018. Easy fresh, tasty wine.
2015 Françoise André, Chorey-lès-Beaune Tue-Boeuf – another 2015 Chorey, more the standard fuller profile of the wines from here but completely delicious right now!
2012 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Lurets – wow – such clarity, such elegant aroma – great wine!
2007 David Clark, Morey Les Porroux – what a young wine! Concentrated, still tannic, a baby, but a good one with plenty of material. Still young!
2002 Chézeaux, Griotte-Chambertin – well, I was shocked that this was so fabulous – why – it was the Leclerc version and my experience of their older bottles is moderate at best, but this was fabulous – old oak, mushroom but clean and great!
2007 Alex Gambal, Chambolle 1er Charmes. Another hit, round, ripe, but complex and engaging – another hit for sure!
2016 Vézelay – the St.Vincent cuvée produced by Croix Montjoie – my last bottle, the one before was corked. Bright, energetic, citrus, engaging. Simply delicious.
2008 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambertin. All my older Chambertins have had a problem of one sort or another – all down to the corks – but this has the plastic ‘cork’ – it was fresh, really fabulously complex on the nose and in the mouth – elegant rather than powerful – but what a beauty to drink. It captured our hearts!

burgundy’s young winemaking talents 2019

By billn on October 30, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

Last week I was involved in the tastings that will determine the 2019 Young Talents from all regions of Burgundy. This (document below) is the result of the first tasting which delivers the 3 top producers in each territory. There will be further taste-off to decide which of the 3 nominees in each geographical area gets the final prize.

a few 2017s from michel noellat

By billn on October 02, 2019 #degustation

My end of last week meeting with Marko de Morey de la Vosne brought the chance to taste a three (excellent) recently opened bottles – here you go:

2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Medium-plus colour. Ripe, but this is still a nose of fine-berried precision – lots of depth to the aroma. Hmm, that’s wide, sweetly fruited and showing only a modest tannin in the mouth – long with faint bitters in the finish, but also a wine that shows a nice plump but not fat texture. Admirably long and decadently super – if you must drink one of these now, this is the one!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts
Perhaps a faint shade less colour than the Suchots. Aromas that are a little more airy and high-toned – precise berries again but with a different shape to the Suchots. Narrower in the mouth – the Suchots is a wide wine, this a wine that’s narrower but showing more drive and direction – a wine that’s got somewhere to go! Less weight of flavour in the finish but no less long, here with a perceptible oak in the finish – though faint. The Suchots catches the eye more today but in 8-10 years I think the gap will be much narrower. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Michel Noellat, Clos de Vougeot
Medium-plus colour. Not a big nose but one of purity and depth – very inviting – the precision of berries of the last with a little extra aromatic transparency. Ooh – that’s sleek with driving flavour – and the flavour is vibrant in the certainly more structured mid-palate. Ooh, this will be lovely but it’s quite the baby wine today. Long, long, finishing. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

just another wine – or two!

By billn on September 27, 2019 #degustation

2014 Jean-Claude Bessin, Chablis Valmur
A small but perfectly formed nose – a wine that is clearly far from open – except that it opens wide and with such persistence in the middle and finishing flavours. Pure, crystaline, only modestly complex today but pure, pure, pure – what a beautiful, if seemingly delicate thing today – practically ephemeral – so good!
Rebuy – Yes!

1993 Bonnefond, Ruchottes-Chambertin
A wine that’s been in my possesion for a long time – bought at Berry Bros & Rudd many years ago – I saved it for one of my end-of-vintage encounters with Marko de Morey – and this year I remembered!
In my evening lighting, this is a wine with plenty of colour – and not obviously aged colour at that. The nose is far from massive but what a nose – complex, growing, precise – pure yet with modest earth and dried leaves – it’s a real sniffer’s wine! Beautiful over the palate – so transparent though with a faint extra bump of tannin in the incredibly long finishing flavour.So elegant, so complex – practically timeless – I probably wouldn’t have guessed a 1990s wine despite the aromatic complexity. Really quite something – a wine that dances over the palate and stays long, long, long – bravo! Plenty of tannin solids drop into the glass with the final pour.
Rebuy – Yes!

a couple of midweek wines…

By billn on September 26, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Cabotte - Beaune Clos des Ursules
Inside the restored cabotte of Beaune Clos des Ursules

Plus a couple of pics from a nice evening run from Beaune to Bligny-lès-Beaune to Pommard and back through the vines to Beaune, catching the last rays of the sun!

1999 Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Au Dessus des Malconsorts
Typical – but we all know this feeling! I’ve only 2 or 3 more from this case of 12 and this was easily the best of all!
Typical 1999, but aromatically and from a flavour perspective – yes there’s depth, but this is a wine of line and of energy, rather than a spreading width of texture. Really, clean as a whistle, vibrant and with a fine complexity. My better half prefers young wine, but she took a second glass of this!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 JJ Confuron, Côte de Nuits Villages Au Leurey
Plenty of depth to the colour for this 2017. The nose is deep and attractively fresh fruited – almost to the point of suggesting a little CO2 – but the palate shows no carbonated grain. In the mouth – woosh – deep, lots of energy and just a little plushness to the texture – delicious ripe but fresh young fruit – I don’t mind if I do take a second glass – again! Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

week 38 2019 – weekend wines…

By billn on September 24, 2019 #degustation

Ponsot - Julien Brocard

Okay, the black and white ones were Friday night, but that’s practically the weekend!

2016 Chablisienne, Chablis Grenouilles
Honestly, I never used to understand why La Chablisienne would serve this cru last when I was tasting their range – I never thought it as good as the other grand crus – until this 2016 vintage – the 2017 is also great. This wine reinforced my memory, with its silky, concentrated, damn near seamless delivery of great flavour – like a slightly less flamboyant (maybe due to less wood) but still great Corton-Charlemagne. Everyone loved this!
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis
I think the last one of the 6-pack that I bought 20 years ago! The cork came out slowly – without breaking – just! It was an unpleasntly smelly cork, so I didn’t have a lot of hope for the wine – happily I was proved oh-so wrong! Yes there was a little herb on the nose, but only as part of a wonderful complexity of aroma; sous-bous, dried leaves and spice, stems, some sweetness – oh that was so good! The palate has the merest anecdote of the tannins of 1995 – but very mild. Incredibly long for a village wine – we all contemplated this wine for a long time before talking about it. Great villages!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 ‘Les Bertrands,’ Fleurie Coup d’Folie
Hmm – for a low/no sulfur wine this has excellent aromatic purity and such a welcoming fruit. The palate has a cushioned depth of rich, layered flavour – unctuous and rewarding wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

Back home from the harvest, I decided on a little grand cru to celebrate:

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Les Preuses
I have only a couple of these – unfortunately – this being one of my top dozen, or-so, wines from the vintage. This showed a little less broadness of flavour vs tasting at the domaine in January, but what a wine – even at the €58 (or-so) price at the domaine/shop – frankly a bargain for such greatness. So long, full of melting flavour and holding not just my interest. Bravo wine without a doubt!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Laurent Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
This the first vintage with the ardea ‘corks,’ and I note that the base of this seal seems completely discoloured by the wine, though a little rubbing removes the colour. The wine’s just a little cloudy. The nose starts with a suggestion of brett followed by a fine vibration of rich, dark fruit aroma – quite pure despite the ripeness. In the mouth there’s clearly more depth and cushion to the flavour extract versus the couple of other 2008s tasted during the week – the acidity is not a bit forward – this being a very drinkable if not particularly complex wine. On day two the nose is in full elastoplast mode – not nice – but if you can avoid that, it still drinks in a tasty way. A shame…
Rebuy – No

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