Why Big Red Diary?

weekend wines – week 41


Believe it or not, on Sunday, there was no wine…

But Saturday allowed me to finish the 2002 Engel and the 2001 Clos de Tart, plus open the de Vogüé and the Mugnier. The Engel held up perfectly (stoppered and left at about 15°C overnight), and the Clos de Tart was just a little more yielding than on Friday – a beautiful wine but one for the ages – don’t return for at least 5 years! The Musigny was simply gorgeous, showing big aromas but given its sweetness of fruit and the lack of any hard edges, you might think a great 97 rather than a 98. The Mugnier was simply a great wine – for many years the Fuées has been my favourite wine from this domaine – and this 2005 did nothing to change that thought. You probably all know that I consider the epicentre of 2005’s outrageous quality to be Chambolle – and this wine certainly exudes greatness. The Engel is so different and ethereal, I can’t begin to compare it to the density of the 2005, but this Fuées bested the 98 Musigny, despite me savouring every drop of that 98!

offer of the day – denis mortet’s 2014s

noble-souchFrom a merchant in Switzerland, today – and even a discount for buying 3 at a time – some of the wines, anyway!

Don’t cases of 12 now sound so 20th century?

Bourgogne Cuvée de Noble Souche 2014, 32.00/bt, 3 bts 27.20/bt (CHF)
Marsannay Les Longeroies 2014, 41.00/bt, 3 bts 34.85/bt
Fixin, Vieilles Vignes 2014, 46.00/bt, 3 bts 39.10/bt
Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2014, 65.00/bt, 3 bts 55.25/bt
Gevrey-Chambertin Champonnet 1er Cru 2014, 114.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru 2014, 124.00
Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru 2014, 124.00
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru 2014, 135.00
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2014, 250.00

The Noble Souche is a great Bourgogne, indeed simply a great wine, but the argument about buying it reminds me of the case of the (Domaine) Leflaive Bourgogne; the price of this wine is so high, that its peer group is not other Bourgognes, rather village Gevrey-Chambertins…

early autumn – beaune and pommard


Thursday rained nearly all day, Friday was mainly wet too – but Saturday gave us the chance to walk for the best part of 4 hours around Beaune, and through its vines to Pommard, and (of-course) all the way back again. Some nice bottles were waiting at home for us, but until then, the views were to drink-in too…

a few friday lunch bottles…


I stopped counting a long time ago – but it seems that last Friday was my birthday – it was also our domaine’s Paulée, to celebrate the end of our 2016 harvest – now how’s that for planning? Actually there are still three tanks to be dug out, but by Monday, or Tuesday, all will be safely put to bed in either tank or barrel.

As Paulées go, this was a very modest affair – indeed, only 8 bottles for 8 people – but there was nothing modest about the wines.

Champagne 1 – a little apple-y and a lot tasty. Champagne 2 was more muscular and intense – tightly wound and fabulous – as it should be. White 1 was Camille Giroud’s 2011 Meursault Charmes, big, bold and impressive – despite the fat, balanced and expressive. Lots of petrol on white 2, and a fabulous open-ended and creamy finish – yum! White 3 was tasty but without reference points – it was basically exactly the same when finished on Saturday night! Red 1 turned out to be Camille Giroud’s 2005 Chapelle-Chambertin – massive aromatics, impressive, tightly wound and complex flavours – bravo – a red version of the Crystal! Red 2 was filigree, complex, fresh, more complex, superb wine – simply exquisite. Red wine 3 was young, a hint diffuse on the nose (though Brillat-Savarin brought out a beautiful beacon of fruit) likewise in the mouth this was young and still showing some oaky structure to go with the impressive density – again the BS shaved off the sharp edges and helped with the focus – easily the youngest of the reds but still number 3 in terms of drinkability today…

And this year’s team:


zinc, stainless-steel & jesus – just a thursday in chablis


A rainy day today – in Chablis – but wonderful people and of-course an Au Fils du Zinc lunch….

a little boulevard

6pm today:

a few weekend bottles – week 40


Why not a run of vintages? 2010 to 2007…

The 2010 Rebourgeon-Mure, Pommard 1er Clos des Charmois was a very tasty wine, with all the delicacy and elegance that 2010 offers, yet it was a little subdued – at least vs others from the vintage at this producer. Tasty enough though.

The 2009 Chandon de Brialles, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses, hinted to the nose of the 09 Ramonet a couple of days earlier, ripe but, in this case, with only a suggestion of alcohol. The palate unfurls in a classy way and with super texture too. A very tasty baby this wine – very tasty!

The 2008 Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles-Vignes (red!) started out a bit spiky – almost a hint sour in the mouth – both me and my partner thought so (lunch), yet in the evening it was much more balanced and tasty. Our palates or oxygenation? Still a good, workmanlike, bottle – just not a great bottle.

The 2007 Fourrier Morey St.Denis Clos Solon Vieilles-Vignes, frankly, performed like it always does; supple, nicely textured wine with layers of flavour. Not even a hint of anything complicated about this vintage chez Fourrier – at least with this wine. Really super – as usual!

‘la maison’ – now there’s a video!

Remember my post on the new ‘boudoir’ in Vougeot? Well now there’s a little more info and even a video!

la Maison
1 rue du Vieux Château
21640 Vougeot
Tel: +33 3 80 61 06 10

Tastings: From €25 per person, open from 11h00 to 18h30 Monday to Thursday and Sunday, plus 10h00 to 19h30 Friday and Saturday.
For sale : Wines from Domaine de la Vougeraie, Maison Jean-Claude Boisset & JCB By Jean-Charles. Wine memorabilia, books about Burgundy and wine and ‘other nice things…’

No affiliation, et-cetera…

want to know more about beaujolais nouveau? of-course you do :)

bjn2016Even if only from a voyeuristic perspective!

Although most of us might have little more than an afterthought about this wine, it’s still a massive volume that is produced.

In 2015, for example, the Beaujolais region sold 193,000 hectoliters of Beaujolais Nouveau, or more easily understood as about 25.7 million bottles in France and abroad. The most important markets outside France are (in order) Japan the United States and the United Kingdom. I must admit to buying a bottle each year, but only one, and usually the one with the most attractive label!

There is even a website – but I couldn’t get it to work: www.beaujolaisnouveau.fr – Still I don’t think that it will stop me from keeping with my previous buying habits!

ramonet’s bourgogne pinot – 2009+2010


These two wines have really changed their drinking positions in the time since their respective releases.

At the start, the 2009 was simply delicious; open, caressing and tasty as any Bourgogne has the right to be. To amplify that point, this may already be the last bottle of my case. By comparison, the 2010 was far from friendly as a youngster, having acidity in the ascendency and a seemingly sharp personality to match.

Today the 2009 is ripe and round, but the nose is less attractive with an impression of alcohol – still a gulpable wine, but lacking a certain class. The 2010 has transformed; it is still fresh, but balanced, interesting, and above all begs you to take the next sip – I honestly regret that I only bought 6 of these – which wasn’t my opinion 4+ years ago…

a little matterhorn…

 The one and only Matterhorn (Swiss side!)

You know, of-course, that I like my mountains, and today I took a chance for a quick visit to Zermatt – a surprisingly mere 2h10 on the train from Bern! The forecast is for snow tomorrow, so we took a chance on today – and what a result – beautiful weather. The Matterhorn is often partly obscured by cloud, but not today.

A nice break. Tomorrow, it’s back to Beaune…

give a dog a vosne…

 Or rather, some malcontent vosnes, already gone to the dogs…

My last night in Beaune after our harvest was a meet-up with Marko de Morey, who had also finished his harvest.

A simple night with a trio of Vosnes, a big baguette, and a fresh Brillat-Savarin – what could go wrong?

Well, wine #1 was the 1998 Thomas-Moillard, Vosne 1er Malconsorts, and it stunk of brett – the nose said to both of us – DNPIM (do not put in mouth) – so having two more bottles, we didn’t!

Wine #2 is a favourite of mine, the 1999 Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne 1er Au Dessu des Malconsorts – pff! Totally corked!

Wine #3, could we make it 3 disasters in a row? or would, Nicolas come to the rescue? The 2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne 1er Malconsorts had a rather understated but clean nose, and a welcoming and complex palate, a palate that seemed to slowly, slowly, get better and better – not full-power, but very tasty indeed – so we didn’t need cry into our last glasses!

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