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a little second week chablis – it’s gone to the dogs…

weekend wines – week 02 2019

2017 Bourgogne Tonnerre Le Clos du Château Blanc
Hmm – some vintages this is a match for 1er cru Chablis, and it’s there or there about in 2017. Fresh, a 2015 style of yellow, easy fruit but with definition and drive. It’s as good as it gets in white burgundy at €8 – actually for that price it’s simply amazing!
Rebuy -Yes

Which reminded me that I had an ‘older’ bottle of the red:

2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Le Clos du Château
Here’s a wine that I suggest searching out in riper vintages
Modest colour, but a nose of vibrant pinot fruit – very red fruited with a subtle herb – though much less than you will find in the majority of Savigny, for example. Presence in the mouth, easy, slightly creamy – probably once from a more overt barrel – open, fresh only a grain of tannin if you go in search of it. Easy, tasty wine for a very modest price – highly recommended in this vintage.
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Domaine des Billards, St.Amour Reserve Caveau
Rounding out a trio of great corks.
Ooh now that’s a deeper colour – almost saturated. A deep nose, luxuriously fruited with a touch of pepper above – white pepper. Ultra-silky, a wine of muscle, of sinew, a richness and depth of flavour but no fat. So many layers – ooh great wine, great finishing. Hard to imagine doing better for the price in Burgundy. Normal service will be resumed with Côte d’Or wines next week!
Rebuy – Yes

the chablis winemakers visited in week 2, 2019

2017 Burgundy is far from over – this was my first group of visits in Chablis this year – the first of three weeks. So for me #Burgundyweek lasts three weeks in January.

‘Roughly’ 62 visits are planned – the report will be online before the end of February – yes I know that’s a long time, but in the meantime you can read the three previous reports; Côte d’Or white, red and ‘Grands Maisons’ – here – for subscribers. When Chablis is published that will be more than 170 domaines and about 2,400 wines from the vintage – then Beaujolais comes in February.

For subscribers that need specific info now re Chablis – send me note.

A Burgundy Report EXTRA! subscription costs 85 Swiss Francs per year.

more chablis colour from today…

weekend wines, week 1 2019

1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos St.Denis
A cork that broke into many pieces – just about recoverable
My last one of this stinked – brett amongst other things – this was way better! A smooth and pure dark-red fruit on the nose – in fact just that – a nice line and shape, but primary – at 22 years old! The palate was reasonably concentrated, nicely silky but like the nose – oh-so young. Given the forward but still balanced acidity I’m not sure what vintage I may have guessed – still a bit sharp for 2005 – but equivalently young. No maturity here – but delicious – all was drunk the same night. And it was a stable wine too – no bretty development – the last sip was as good as the first.
Rebuy – Yes

Now you mention 2005s…

2005 Bertagna, Chambolle-Musigny Le Village
Another terrible – broken in the middle cork – at this level of annoyance, I’d prefer DIAM! Not recoverable either, even with an Ah-So, it ended up in the neck so I quickly decanted through a filter.
Well, what do you know – more depth and certainly more aromatic complexity – perhaps even maturity – than the 1996. Go figure. It’s a dark complexity that is visible in the flavours too – perhaps a little oak-derived. But a wine with more volume and more maturity than the CSD, complex though less finely textured. A great and cushioned wine for the label – Chambolle has always been my sweet spot for 2005s. Great Villages! Another wine that didn’t last the night (but not the same night!)
Rebuy – Yes

a little chablis colour…

A small break in the clouds this afternoon, after a grey morning – I’ve been asked if I’d rather be in London for Burgundy Week – what do you think…?
 

2017 Red Burgundy Report – the ‘Grands Maisons’

Quite frankly, 2017 is the most complex, the most variable, red wine vintage that I’ve ever tasted.

The 2017 Vintage Grands Maisons Report

In December 2018’s Burgundy Report there are over 440 wines for you to add to the last two months reports – so that’s already more than 1,800 wines from 110+ producers in the October to December 2017 vintage reports.

With the visits for my Chablis 2017 report starting tomorrow (January 2019 Report) and Beaujolais 2017 visits in the February 2019 Report still to come. Nobody else brings you such a wide perspective of Burgundy!

I hope you enjoy – here.

a few wines to get back into the swing of things – week 1 2019

2006 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
A golden colour, but not so deep – it looks fine! Hmm, it smells fine too! A little toast, fresh width and fainter sweetness. Weight in the mouth, a freshness that easily carries a richness of extract – growing wider, mineral, concentrated – such lovely texture. Excellent, mineral, length. Beautiful shape, more mineral than tasty – but still yum!
Rebuy – Maybe

2007 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Plenty of energy on this nose, just a little more appealing than the 2006. Ouch – that’s great – but only just. Many lower wines in 07 can be like battery-acid, this avoids that, but it’s still not a wine for the acid averse. Complex, tasty and with so much zing – just drink is somewhere calm! I love!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
A more cushioned nose, faintly sweet, almost a sweet apricot aspect. A hint more age than the 07, but whilst there’s plenty of acidity, this is less driving than the 2007 – it’s the most balanced and delicious of all these wines so-far – still vibrant, indeed electric in the mid and finish. I maybe love this even more than the 07!
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Hmm – a fresh nose but with a depth of toasty notes – this needs a litter air. I’m expecting some fat, some richness, but no – fresh, mineral, balanced – yet without an obvious acidity like the last two wines. It seems that this is balanced more by its minerality than its acidity. Open, classy, great texture and importantly delicious – something that to an extent the 2006 lacks.
Rebuy – Yes

I admit that I’m tempting fate, but I’ve never had a sub-par bottle of Alex’s Dents du Chien. Maybe I should pull out the 2004 and 2005 that I have somewhere!

1998 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambertin
Well the quick summary would be that this was almost a waste of a bottle. I remember Laurent Ponsot telling me a few years ago that his wines shouldn’t be judged before they were twenty years old – more recently he updated that to 25-years – he had probably tasted this wine just before we spoke!
The nose is fresh but narrow; celery, a considered, almost spiced but certainly understated dark-red fruit aroma. Fresh, clean lines over the palate with a depth of black-cherry fruit, almost black-olive ‘fruit’ – this is a wine of line and freshness, not a wine of weight or concentration. I drank it, all of it, with a certain, measured, enjoyment, but certainly not enthusiasm given the label – or the price-point! Certainly not worth the price of entry today, your mileage may vary in the future…
Rebuy – No

my christmas magnum opus

Of-course with a little help from my friends…

You already met the 1981 Nuits, earlier in my posts, so:

2010 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Beauroy
Light, very young colour. The nose is pure, saline, seashore – perfect. Nice zing and intensity – pure and delicious flavour – the finish a little short/inconsequential – but a prefect condition, perfect quaffer that everyone loved – easy!
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Camille Giroud, Corton-Charlemagne
My 2017s in 75cl all died more than 3-4 years ago, but this is pristine in magnum format.
Certainly a darker colour, still a suggestion of oak but a powerful lychee-style tropicality, yet rippling muscle, and fine energetic drive to the concentrated flavour. Honestly, this is such a baby – a delicious baby – but maybe drunk 5-10 years too soon. Hard to tell with some of these wines – eh?
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Faiveley, Corton, Clos des Cortons Faiveley
I thought that Erwan Faiveley was having some fun when he described this cuvée as ‘approachable’ – I thought to myself ‘approachable in what – a full hazard suit?’ but this frightening combination of cuvée and vintage is indeed quite drinkable – but it’s still 10 years too early in this format!
A nose of cool fruit, blood, a certain celery-style herb – but very clean – there’s no brett or anything like that. In the mouth medium bodied but with a good intensity – very young, practically primary flavour but zero astringent and I must say, a nice texture. Baby wine – it drank well over nearly 3 days, but like a ‘too young’ wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
I have some of this in magnums from 2006 and 2005 – it’s still too early to prise a 2005 from the cellar I think…
Medium-plus colour. The nose has an easy quality to it – appealing, but far from the invitation of an Amoureuses. Tasty wine, of good shape, modest intensity and even quite good complexity. Simply a good wine. I was expecting more – luckily the premium for this label was very little in those days. Tasty but not special.
Rebuy – No

2013 Nathalie & Gilles Fevre, Chablis Les Preuses
I decided too early to open any of 2012, 2014, 2015 or 2016 but maybe 2013 would be worth it! Loved the silver-coloured wax capsule.
Hmm – a big aromatic here, a little apricot and lychee, but also a saline suggestion too. In the mouth, big energetic wine with plenty of sucrosity – it’s completely delicious – though you may be hard pressed to spot it as a Chablis – blind. But loved by all.
Rebuy – Maybe

2008 Camille Giroud, Bourgogne Pinot Noir – Cuvée L
L for lees – the blending of the remaining lees at bottling for all this producer’s wines – bourgogne, villages, 1ers and grands crus – then left a number of months more to (best as possible) settle. Clearly this needed more than the 5 days I gave it – it was never clean and bright!
Fresh – open, younger but complex nose. Open, good intensity – fresh-flavoured – actually very delicious in an open and easy style. Not perfect clarity, but a shape, a definition, that reminded me a little of Cortons. Very open, very tasty – I guess I’m lucky to be the only person with magnums 🙂
Rebuy – Yes
 

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