Beaujolais

2025 Beaujolais Nouveau – good and consistent – easily the best since 2022 !!

By billn on November 11, 2025 #annual laurels#beaujolais

Beaujolais Nouveau 2025 Arrives ...Thursday the 20th of November 2025 will be Beaujolais Nouveau day – so how about a few stats to get us going?

15.5 million bottles of Nouveaux were produced in 2023 versus 16.5 million in 2022 – but in 2024, we saw another drop to 14.3 million. That said, 2024 was a much lower-volume harvest – and 2025 wasn’t much higher. Unfortunately, for comparison’s sake, the 2025 sales volume won’t be known for quite some time…

The main theme for the 2024 vintage were the losses due to mildew. There was a little of that in 2025 too – but in the end, it was the poor weather at flowering time that reduced volume expectations as it resulted in much coulure and millerandes. Volume expectations were further reduced by spells of hot (heatwave) weather, which shrunk the volume of juice in the berries. Like in the other regions of Burgundy, there was rain to contend with at harvest time, but as one grower explained to me, “Yes, but the rain was sufficiently late that the grapes didn’t take up much of it – so it hardly budged the potential harvest volumes.

Most of Nouveau comes from the southerly part of Beaujolais – in the Beaujolais and Beaujolais villages areas. More (Nouveau) wine is generally made here than in the crus – but volumes (and trying to compare them) are, of course, a moving target, varying from producer to producer.

In 2024, France took 62% of the bottles, but the classic Nouveau markets of Japan, the US and the UK, together, still bought 3.2 million bottles (versus 4 million bottles in 2022) out of the total of 5.3 million that were exported. Oh, and 4% of that remains white or rosé today!

And how is this Nouveau vintage?

I’ll make my comments on 2025 Nouveau, aided by some comparison to 2024:

Historically – and I’ve been making this tasting since the 2017 vintage – I’ve seen much more consistent quality in smaller volume vintages than I have in ‘normal’ or ‘generous’ vintages. It seems that many domaines like to play with yield elasticity in the more generous vintages – when it’s quite easy to find lighter, usually less interesting wines.

The quality wasn’t consistent in 2024, and was only rarely great. 2025 is another smaller-volume vintage, but this time the growers have delivered much better consistency – the best that I’ve seen since the 2022 vintage. The 2025 grapes had naturally higher ripeness than in 2024, enabled by earlier harvesting that allowed growers to delay harvesting, should they wish – many domaines recounting that they found it difficult to find the optimum harvest dates. This higher ripeness seems to have worked in our favour with more consistency, and it’s clearly evident in even higher levels in this year’s Beaujolais Villages.

From the 116 wines from 2025 that I tasted, I found many more acceptably delicious, even excellent wines than was the case in 2024 – I even found some great ones!

Very good to excellent wines mean that they are wines where I would be happy to drink at least a glass, or even multiple glasses. This year, it was obvious that there was more consistent quality to be found in the Beaujolais Villages than the Beaujolais, though, like every year, at the expense of drinkability.

Let me explain:

This year, Beaujolais Villages wines show more maturity and their finishing sweetness of fruit is next level – but also the level of tannin in many…. Most of them will start drinking well in the Springtime of 2026 – but on the 20th of November? Les Beaujolais Nouveaux day? – less so.

Did I ever say that I struggle with the concept of Beaujolais Villages Nouveaux? At least in terms of drinking them on the third Thursday of November – of course I did 🙂

Good hunting!

All of the wines were tasted and selected blind. It was only after the tasting that I got a copy of the spreadsheet with the names to match to the numbered bottles:

Great wines for their labels
Antoine Viland Nouveau
Julien Aucagne Villages Nouveau
Jérôme Lacondemine, Cœur de Vigneron Villages Nouveau

Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Nouveau
Only one more excellent wine than in 2024 in this section – but fully 61% (36 of 59 samples) of the wines I rated as being of very acceptable quality – that’s way higher than in 2024:
Quentin et Gaëtan Morel, Boder’Wine
Château de L’Eclair
Louis Tête, Le Pot
Les Vins J.M Aujoux, Le Bistrot d’Aujoux
Les Vins J.M Aujoux, Le Cochon Chic
P.Ferraud & Fils, Le Couple
Georges Duboeuf

Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Villages Nouveau
Nineteen from 51 wines tasted in this section I thought excellent – 2 were great. That’s in comparison to just 10 in 2024. Likewise, I classed a much higher percentage of 2025s as having very acceptable quality: 38 from 51 or 74% !!
Famille Mélinon
Domaine de Colette, Natur’elle
Maison Piron
Passot Rémy et Fils
Maison Trénel
Domaine de la Plaigne
Domaine du Sallerin, En attendant le Printemps
Aurélie Dunérin
Domaine de Croifolie
Cave du Château des Loges, Le Monde en Fête
Richard Rottiers
Château de Lavernette, Le Jeune
Château de la Terrière
Domaine de la Milleranche
Château de Poncié
Frédéric Perrier
André Colonge & Fils, Gatsby Gamay

The savoury/beer flavours and/or aromas – which I associate with lower sulfur wines that have been open a few hours – or wines in fridge that have been open more than 24 hours – were very common in the flavours of 2024s, but they are much rarer in 2025. I know that some people like beer.

Click on ‘Read More…’ below to see the full notes for the 116 wines in the order that they were (blind) tasted on Wednesday 05th November 2025:
Beaujolais
  Read more..

2024 Beaujolais Nouveaux – ups and downs…

By billn on November 08, 2024 #annual laurels#beaujolais

2024 Beaujolais NouveauxThursday the 21st November 2024 will be Beaujolais Nouveaux day – so how about a few stats to get us going?

The area under vine continues to decrease in Beaujolais – in 2023 it was just 12,067 hectares – compared to 13,500 hectares in 2022. 15.5 million bottles of Nouveaux were produced in 2023 versus 16.5 million in 2022 – but this year, the smaller area under vines is not the underlying theme.

For 2024, the volume is considerably less and we can simply point to the weather. Like the rest of greater Burgundy in 2024, and France in general, there was frost in places, not the best flowering, and interminable rain – consequently the development of mildew.

The crus of northern Beaujolais were largely spared the worst of the weather conditions – occasional hail excepted – but most of Nouveau comes from further south – in the Beaujolais and Beaujolais villages areas. It’s a big area so some parts fared better than others but many producers made only a quarter of their normal yields – or even less.

In 2023 France took two-thirds of the bottles but the classic markets of Japan, the US and the UK, together, still bought 3.9 million bottles (versus 4 million bottles in 2022) out of the total of 5.7 million that were exported. Oh, and 4% of that is white or rosé today!

And how is this Nouveaux vintage?

I’ll keep my comments strictly on 2024 Nouveaux:

Historically – and I’ve been making this tasting since the 2017 vintage – I’ve seen much more consistent quality in smaller volume vintages than I have in ‘normal or generous’ vintages. It seems that many domaines like to play with yield elasticity in more generous vintages – so it’s quite easy to find lighter, less interesting wines.

2024 is certainly a smaller volume vintage, so that means the average is quite consistent then(?) Sadly no.

From the 119 wines from 2024 that I tasted, I found great wines (for the label) to be very rare birds indeed, though wines that spanned the range of quality from very good to excellent, fortunately, cropped up from time to time – ie wines where I would be happy to drink at least a glass, or even multiple glasses. It was clear that there was more consistent quality to be found in the Beaujolais Villages than the Beaujolais.

Beaujolais is the first step of quality, with Beaujolais Villages coming from ‘more gifted’ sites. This year, chance played a wicked game with me; the first wine I tasted was super (I wrote ‘benchmark’) but quite a few of those that followed were at a much lower quality level. Tasting life was ‘easier’ with the Beaujolais Villages in that the average quality was higher and also more consistent – but, unfortunately, at the expense of drinkablity.

What do I mean by that?

The Beaujolais Villages wines are more structural and tannic – they are more concentrated too. Most of them will start drinking well in the Springtime of 2025 – but on the 21st November? Beaujolais Nouveaux day? – not so much.

Did I ever say that I struggle with the concept of Beaujolais Villages Nouveaux? At least in terms of drinking them on the third Thursday of November 🙂

Good hunting!
All of the wines were tasted and selected blind. It was only after the tasting that I got a copy of the spreadsheet with the names to match to the numbered bottles:

Great wines for their labels
Clearly fewer than last year:
Mommessin
Domaine des Marrans
Famille Girin
Domaine JP Rivière

Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Nouveau
P. Ferraud et Fils, Rosé
Domaine des Ronze, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Club des Sommeliers, GVS
Antoine Viland
Maison Loron, Les Repentis
Vignerons des Pierres Dorées, La Rose Pourpre
Château de l’Eclair

Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Villages Nouveau
Domaine Depardon, Cuvée Préstige
Maison Thorin
Julien Aucagne
Jean-Marc Lafont
Agamy, Cuvée Bernard Pivot
Domaine Monts D’argent, Lantigné
Domaine Joncy
Richard Rottiers
Jérôme Lacondemine, Cœur de Raisin
Georges Duboeuf

The savoury/beer flavours and/or aromas – which I associate with low slufur wines that have been open a few hours – or wines in fridge that have been open more than 24 hours – are very common in the flavours this year. I know that some people like beer – but it’s not my thing, plus I’ve never noted as much in previous tastings.

Click on ‘Read More…’ below to see the full notes for the 119 wines in the order that they were (blind) tasted on Thursday 7th November 2024:
Beaujolais
  Read more..

More 2022 Beaujolais – 37 more domaines online

By billn on March 28, 2024 #beaujolais#reports

Col du Truges - February 2022...

I promised you that to avoid such a long wait I’d get more reports up weekly for the February Report – there’s always plenty of Beaujolais – and why not in such a splendid vintage!(?)

So here are another 37 domaines in Part 2: February Report

That’s 60 domaine visits in the February report so far – I think with about another 20 still to add – plus of course, my 2022 Beaujolais – Vintage summary – probably all online week of the 8th of April – as I’ll be tied up with visits for next week.

Enjoy Easter !!

February’s Burgundy Report – Part 1

By billn on March 20, 2024 #beaujolais#reports

Beaujolais - Feb 2022Here

As promised, the first part of my 2022 Beaujolais Report.

I visited about 80 domaines in February, all of which will be included in my final February report. To avoid long periods with no obvious new content, I’ll be updating this report weekly with another tranche of finished visit reports – so check back in another week when I’ll have over 50 reports completed.

Just to keep me busy, I’ve another 20+ Beaujolais visits to do in April! It’s a great vintage in Beaujolais – but only on the completion of the full February report, will I include my 2022 Beaujolais vintage summary.

Enjoy!

Catching up #1 – Beaujolais Reporting

By billn on March 16, 2024 #beaujolais#reports#travel pics#travels in burgundy 2024

So a couple of days of typing this week, post week number 4 in Chablis – but for now, let’s just talk about up-and-coming Beaujolais reporting.

Like in Chablis, there will be another week of visits in Beaujolais, as three weeks just doesn’t cut it in either place anymore – I’ve over 100 domaines to visit in both regions. But more visits means less time to type – such is life.

So I don’t want subscribers to wait around too long for reports just because I’m doing more. So I plan to split February’s monthly (Beaujolais) report into about 3 weekly issues until all is complete – then there is less tumbleweed on the site. As soon as at least 20 of the 80 visits are publishable, I’ll do that and let everyone know on the WhatsApp group (top right of this page) – and of course, with a post here.

Only to say, that at this stage of the wines’ lives – I think the greatest quality/value to be found in 2022 comes in Beaujolais – only a teaser 🙂

The best gamay in the world !(?)

By billn on January 17, 2024 #annual laurels#beaujolais

The 14th edition of the International Gamay Competition took place at the Cité Internationale de Lyon last Saturday – the 13th of January.

David Béroujon 2021Over 800 wines from 4 countries; France, Switzerland, Italy & Brazil were tasted by a jury of 181 ‘professional wine tasters and informed amateurs‘ who awarded 267 medals including 164 Gold and 103 Silver. So 20% of the wines received a gold medal – which sounds a little high.

That said, my experience of winners has been positive (though I visited only one winner!) – and his Beaujolais wines have always been delicious – David Béroujon – pictured, right, with his trophy.

From the 164 gold medals there was an additional ‘taste-off’ which was won by an old vines Moulin à Vent by Domaine du Colonat who are based in Villié-Morgon. An address to add to my list 🙂

The runner up wine came from Switzerland: AOC Coteau de Peissy, Domaine des Charmes, Le Baron Rouge Vieilles Vignes 1er cru 2022. Now that really is a mouthful !!

2023 Beaujolais Nouveau – steady as she goes!

By billn on November 01, 2023 #annual laurels#beaujolais

2023 Beaujolais Nouveau

So – how important is Beaujolais Nouveau today?

It may surprise you to learn that in 2022, nearly a quarter of all Beaujolais’ 13,500 hectares of production, ended up in bottles that were labelled Nouveau.

That was 16,500,000 bottles of Nouveau – and that’s a lot – it’s equivalent to 85% of all the production of the Burgundy region from Chablis to the ‘border’ with Beaujolais!

France takes 60% of the bottles but the classic markets of Japan, the US and the UK, together, still bought more than 4 million bottles last year.

That being the case, it’s still worth trying to find some good ones!

The 2023 vintage:

The vine-growth in 2023 started in the ‘new classic’ style – ie quite early and in good conditions due to a mild start to the year. This year, there was hardly any worry about frost and there followed practically ideal conditions for flowering. This early debut of growth, followed by the summer heat, ensured that it was another earlier harvesting year – from about the 1st September – so, versus 2021, we certainly had the potential for nearly an extra month of elevage before any Nouveau bottling got underway – but how, exactly, did the post-flowering year go?

In 2023, the Beaujolais vigneron(ne)s liked to talk about the weather; there’s nothing unusual about ‘farmers’ talking about the weather, right? Of course not! But, as we approached the harvest, there was a clear focus to most of these conversations – and that focus was the rain – or rather the lack of rain.

The crus in the north got a couple of decent rainfalls in July/August but to the south not – here it stayed dry from mid-June right up to the harvest – in fact the further south you went in Beaujolais, the drier it got, reducing the berry size and therefore the yields – unsurprisingly, it was the young vines that particularly suffered in these conditions. The producers point to the counter-balance of the daytime heat with cooler nights – ‘so the wines have a nice aromatic balance – not too warm!

Proportionately, Beaujolais Nouveau is made in higher quantities from vines in the appellations of Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages as these labels are a little less attractive to Beaujolais buyers than those wines labelled in the name of ‘the crus’ – such as Fleurie or Saint Amour. So it is the wines from the south, whose volumes were most severely limited by the summer drought, who provide the bulk of the juice for these Nouveaux – it was an important point for this tasting.

The best wines…

2023 Beaujolais NouveauIn the the heartland of Beaujolais Nouveau production – ie the south of Beaujolais – the, drought-related, brake on the potential harvest volume has clearly been of benefit for anyone with an interest in drinking this stuff. That’s because any excess volume usually translates into significant quality variation between those who cropped at the maximum and those who were more modest.

2023’s more modest harvest volumes have brought some consistency to the wines – a little like in 2022. The Beaujolais Nouveaux are less regular than the Beaujolais Villages Nouveaux but as in most years the latter category come with not just more depth of flavour – they come with more structure too – and in many cases I’d be looking to keep, and drink, the villages over a longer period than the campaign for Nouveau might suggest.

I have noted a few more great wines (below) than in 2022 but overall, it’s quite a similar number for 97 wines tasted this year.

97 wines tasted – is that a lot? There are probably more like 200-250 different bottlings and/or cuvée names in this category – and good luck to you if you can find some of them in your local markets. I really struggle in Switzerland – and the anonymous (single!) bottling of Switzerland’s Coop supermarket is, historically, an awful one – but I’ll try it again this year – hopefully without needing to pour (more than!) half of the bottle away!

Good hunting!
All the wines were tasted and selected blind. It was only after the tasting that I got a copy of the spreadsheet with the names to match to the numbered bottles:

5 Great wines for their labels
One more than last year:
Jean Loron, Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé
Agamy, Domaine de Solémy Beaujolais Nouveau
Manoir du Carra Famille Sambardier, Dame Nature Beaujolais Villages
Famille Descombe, Granite Beaujolais Villages
Richard Rottiers Beaujolais Villages

10 Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Nouveau
Two less than in 2022:
Jean Loron, Rift 69
Romy, Le Mouflet
Georges Duboeuf
Jean-Yves Sonnery Domaine de Baluce
Domaine des Prévelières
Domaine Pierre André Dumas
Aurélie et Fabien Romany
Domaine des Prévelières, Border’Wine
Baptiste Aufranc
Célia et David Large, Zombi

9 Excellent Wines – Beaujolais Villages Nouveau
Just one more than in 2022:
Domaine Gaget, Vinum Memoria
Georges Duboeuf
Domaine de la Madone Bérerd Père et Fils
Nicolas Boudeau
Domaine des Terres Vivantes, La Lutine
Cave Vignerons de Bel Air, Natural
Château de Corcelles
Domaine Desprès
Julien Aucagne

Click on ‘Read More…’ below to see the full notes for the (almost) 100 wines in the order that they were (blind) tasted on Halloween 2023:
Beaujolais
  Read more..

Julie Balagny – adieu…

By billn on July 06, 2023 #asides#beaujolais#sad losses...

Julie Balagny

I heard the sad news over the weekend but waited for confirmation before writing anything. Julie Balagny, vigneronne of Moulin-à-Vent has recently died.

Her home was nestled in the hamlet of Les Thorins. A house whose door would usually be wide open – even if she was not at home – which happened to me more than once when she forgot that we had an appointment! But, in her stead, there was always a dog, a cat, or maybe a chicken, to greet me. Memorably, there was once a young lamb – making a great impression of a dog – except for its voice.

Julie was a free-thinker and very much a non-interventionist winemaker, sometimes to the extent that she might fall foul of fellow AOC winemakers and choose to label her wines as Vin de France. But the wines of Julie reflected her character – honest and frank – they were low-intervention wines, modestly coloured but immodestly full-flavoured. Her 2021s were superb – if you want to pidgeon-hole a style, similar those of the Thillardon brothers – it was just a shame that there were so few of them in 2021.

This is a big loss to the diversity of production in Beaujolais and I will miss her very much…

Premier Crus for Fleurie?

By billn on June 06, 2023 #beaujolais#degustation#warning - opinion!

*The Fleurie appellation is located in the heart of the Beaujolais Crus and overlooks the Saône valley, the AOC Fleurie is backed by a chain of ridges. It culminates between 225 and 475 meters above sea level and flourishes on 840 hectares of vines. The soils are mainly made up of more or less deep and decomposed pink granites which give Fleurie wines a finesse and an elegant structure.
Check out: Fleurie & Fleurie Maps

*As per InterBeaujolais…

Fleurie - Clos de la Chapelle des BoisFor about 10 years now, the ‘Cru Fleurie’ – ie the local association of winegrower/makers – have been involved in collective action and studies with the aim to ‘encourage winegrowers to further improve the quality of their wines and highlight their terroirs in order to reclaim their wine history!

During this period, resources were allocated to both cartographic and geological studies – you have a link to the resulting maps here – this work carried out by the Rhône Chamber of Agriculture in collaboration with the Sigales pedological study office with the aid of InterBeaujolais. The result, with the (above) linked maps, certainly makes it possible to more fully appreciate the diversity of the soils in Beaujolais – granite is not always granite! Further research has included historical price positioning plus a survey on the cultural practices and know-how of the winegrowers.

On Tuesday, March 28 2023, a general meeting was held for the Fleurie Cru and the Beaujolais vineyards. The winegrowers of the Fleurie Cru voted for an update to their specifications plus a list of climats that should be presented with all the collected historical information to the INAO for a Premiers Crus classification. *’Out of more than 70 voters (representing 60% of the surface area of the AOC), more than 85% of the winegrowers voted for the following:
*Interbeaujolais

The updated specifications include the following commitments:
– A yield of 52 hl/ha vs 56 hl for the Fleurie without mention of 1er Cru
– Marketing of their wines on September 1st following the harvest vs the current February 1st
– A first harvest after the 5th leaf – it is allowed in the 3rd vintage even for grand crus in the Côte d’Or!
– A minimum degree of 11.5° vs the current 10.5°
– Chemical weeding is prohibited for vines planted at greater than 120cm spacing

The 48 climats of the cru were classified according to the following objective criteria:
– The use of the locality in harvest claims
– The claimed area vs planted area of the locality
– Valuation of vintages
– Tasting notes
– Contemporary literature
– Historical literature
– The cartography

The winegrowers of the Fleurie Cru wish to propose for Premier Cru classification the 7 climats having obtained the best scores in their voting, i.e.:
– Les Moriers
– Poncié
– Les Garants
– La Madone
– La Roilette
– Grille Midi
– La Chapelle des Bois
These 7 localities currently represent 27% of the appellation.

The dossier containing these infos will be presented to the INAO. This is typically a very long process before (or if!) any changes come to fruition – 10-20 years! – with much horse-trading and even the likelihood that the INAO (in exchange) will wish to declassify some parcels from the AOC of Fleurie.

My personal position is that the crus of Beaujolais are effectively (already) the equivalent of premier crus because of the pre-existence of Beaujolais-Villages eg Beaujolais-Lantignie (and many others) and an obvious step up in quality. I would be happier if the energy of the growers was focused on making the very best wine possible as opposed to tinkering with the rules and classification of their climats – yet! – Yet, it is also entirely possible that the improvement in quality that they are searching for and the investment in the best production facilities that can underpin that may only be widely achievable if the can earn a few more euros per bottle and need the influence of a 1er cru label to achieve that. You might say something of a chicken and egg situation…

Click on ‘Read More…’ below to see the notes for 40+ Fleurie wines in the order that they were (blind) tasted this Springtime:
Beaujolais
  Read more..

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