Annual Laurels

more awards for jon wyand…

By billn on May 02, 2019 #annual laurels

I’m so pleased to see that my old colleague/collaborator/friend (delete as you feel applicable) has more awards to his name.

Jon’s images scooped both first and second prizes in the 2019 Errazuriz Wine Photographer of the Year competition – and, of-course, both his pictures were taken in Burgundy!

Courtesy of Jon you can see here his overall winning image of the Faiveley cuverie in action, in Mercurey – plus the second-prize winning still-life of a cuverie that Jon describes as ‘from an ex-domaine in Russilly‘ – Jon also won this same competition in 2014.

The Errazuriz sponsored categories were titled ‘People’, ‘Places’ and ‘Produce’ and both of Jon’s images were from the ‘Places’ category. Both of these images will also feature in his new book, due out in September-October, in French, but with an English edition also due. ‘A Year in the Côte Chalonnaise.‘ He tells me the book will be the “Same specification as ‘Corton‘ but with a much lighter approach – not so “Grand Cru” this time.

My appetite is whetted.

You can see all the ‘finalists gallery’ here, but note that the page takes an age to show all these images!

30th edition of burgundy’s young talents…

By billn on November 22, 2018 #annual laurels

I finally got to see the result of this years competition – decided at the end of last week.

Here are the domaines, winemaker who got the trophy and the wines that they presented. Enjoy:

Catégorie Mâconnais – Charles Edouard DROUIN of Domaine Thierry DROUIN
Mâcon Vergisson « La Roche »
Pouilly Fuissé « Maréchaude »
Pouilly Fuissé « En Buland »

Catégorie Beaujolais – Cyril CHIROUZE of Château des JACQUES
Bourgogne Clos de Loyse – chardonnay
Moulin à Vent
Moulin à Vent « Clos de Rochegrès »

Catégorie Côte de Beaune – Chloé CHEVALIER of Domaine CHEVALIER
Aloxe Corton
Gevrey Chambertin
Ladoix 1er cru « Les Corvées »

Catégorie Côte de Nuits – Pierre BART of Domaine BART
Bourgogne – pinot noir
Marsannay « les grandes vignes »
Marsannay « au champ Salomon »

Catégorie Côte Chalonnaise – François Berthenet of Domaine Berthenet
Bourgogne – pinot noir
Montagny 1er Cru « Mont Cuchot »
Montagny 1er Cru « Les bonneveaux »

Catégorie Chablisien – Camille BESSON of Domaine BESSON
Petit Chablis
Chablis 1er cru « Vaillons »
Chablis 1er Cru « Montmains »

Catégorie Grand Auxerrois – Sophie et Matthieu WOILLEZ of Domaine de la CROIX MONTJOIE
Bourgogne Vézelay « L’élégante »
Bourgogne Vézelay « L’impatiente »
Bourgogne Vézelay « La voluptueuse»

the medalists – concours des vins du grand auxerrois 2018

By billn on November 04, 2018 #annual laurels#degustation

Yesterday, the latest edition of the Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois (Auxerrois Wine Competition) was held, with nearly sixty jurors and 201 different wines entered.

The Confrérie des Chevaliers des Trois Ceps(!) plus chief judge Nelly Lega blind-tasted the wines and in the appended pdf you can see all the results – enjoy…

young talents 2018

By billn on October 25, 2018 #annual laurels

The big tasting was this week, and here for your interest is the list of nominees for the trophy in each category.

Some are well-known to readers of Burgundy Report, some naturally, are new. There will be a ‘taste-off’ with the trophy’s main judges – this year Olivier Poussier and Estelle Touzet (me last year ;-)) – and the trophies will be awarded at a dinner on Friday 16 November where anyone can attend – and even bring some of their own wine! Enjoy:

30ème Trophées Jeunes Talents
Les Nominés 2018:

Mâconnais
Damien MARTIN – Domaine de LA DENANTE
Mâcon Verzé
Saint Véran « Les Maillettes »
Pouilly Fuissé

Franz-Ludwig GONDARD – Domaine GONDARD PERRIN
Crémant
Viré Clessé « Climat Brechen »
Viré Clessé « Aux Quarts »

Charles Edouard DROUIN – Domaine Thierry DROUIN
Mâcon Vergisson « La Roche »
Pouilly Fuissé « Maréchaude »
Pouilly Fuissé « En Buland »

Beaujolais
Virginie FOURNIER – Domaine de la PIROLETTE
Beaujolais Villages
Saint Amour
Saint Amour « le Carjot »

Didier LAGNEAU – Domaine LAGNEAU
Beaujolais Villages
Régnié Vieilles Vignes
Côte de Brouilly

Cyril CHIROUZE – Château des JACQUES
Bourgogne Clos de Loyse – chardonnay
Moulin à Vent
Moulin à Vent « Clos de Rochegrès »

Côte de Beaune
Alexandre PARIGOT – Domaine PARIGOT
Hautes Côtes de Beaune « Clos de la Perrière » – pinot noir
Beaune 1er cru « Les Grèves »
Pommard 1er cru « Les Charmots »

Chloé CHEVALIER – Domaine CHEVALIER
Aloxe Corton
Gevrey Chambertin
Ladoix 1er cru « Les Corvées »

Matthieu THEVENARD – Domaine Alex GAMBAL
Bourgogne – pinot noir
Saint Romain
Saint Aubin 1er cru « les Murgers des dents de chien »

Côte de Nuits
Alice et Louis HAMMANN RION – Domaine A&B RION
Bourgogne « La Croix Blanche » – pinot noir
Vosne Romanée Dame Juliette
Vosne Romanée 1er Cru « Les Chaumes »

François AMBROISE – AMBROISE frère & sœur
Bourgogne – pinot noir
Nuits Saint Georges
Nuits St Georges 1er cru « Les Vaucrains »

Pierre BART – Domaine BART
Bourgogne – pinot noir
Marsannay « les grandes vignes »
Marsannay « au champ Salomon »

Côte Chalonnaise
Arnaud et Xavier Desfontaine – Château de CHAMILLY
Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise- chardonnay
Montagny « les bassets »
Mercurey 1er cru « Les Puillets »

François Berthenet – Domaine Berthenet
Bourgogne – pinot noir
Montagny 1er Cru « Mont Cuchot »
Montagny 1er Cru « Les bonneveaux »

Félix DEBAVELAERE – Domaine DES ROIS MAGES
Rully « Les cailloux » – chardonnay
Rully « Les cailloux » – pinot noir
Rully 1er cru – chardonnay

Chablisien/Auxerrois
Camille BESSON – Domaine BESSON
Petit Chablis
Chablis 1er cru « Vaillons »
Chablis 1er Cru « Montmains »

Fabien DAUVISSAT – Domaine Jean DAUVISSAT
Petit Chablis
Chablis 1er cru « Vaillons »
Chablis 1er cru « Fourchaume »

Charly NICOLLE – Domaine CHARLY NICOLLE
Petit Chablis
Chablis 1er cru « Les Fourneaux »
Chablis 1er cru « Mont de Milieu »

Grand Auxerrois
Matthieu DANGIN – domaine Bruno DANGIN
Crémant cuvée Blanche
Crémant cuvée Rose – rosé
Crémant cuvée « Prestige de Narcès »

Sophie et Matthieu WOILLEZ – Domaine de la CROIX MONTJOIE
Bourgogne Vézelay « L’élégante »
Bourgogne Vézelay « L’impatiente »
Bourgogne Vézelay « La voluptueuse»

Bastien MATHIAS – domaine Alain MATHIAS
Bourgogne Tonnerre Côte de Grisey
Chablis
Chablis 1er Cru « Côte de Juan »

Burgundy’s Cave Prestige 2018

By billn on June 14, 2018 #annual laurels#degustation

Nope, that’s not the vintage 2018 already, rather the 2018 version of Burgundy’s Cave Prestige, which mainly covers wines of the 2016 vintage.

Apparently this is the 47th year that the cave prestige has been assembled; it consists of two tasting panels – a smaller one doing the first triage and larger group who provide the final thumbs up. For this, the 2018 version, they began with 1,138 samples, which they whittled down to the 218 ‘winners’ which they presented at a large tasting today in Beaune. These wines will be used to ‘represent’ Burgundy in tastings around the world in the coming 12 months. The BIVB says that they ‘buy all the wines selected for the Cave de Prestige. In 2018, almost 14,500 bottles were purchased.

From my tasting of (mainly) the the whites, there’s nothing here that I wouldn’t happily quaff and, of-course, some are very, very good indeed! There were also a few 2015s and 2014s but for simplicity’s sake – I only tasted 2016s. It turns out that I really only tasted whites too – the time available (and come to think of it my liver) didn’t allow me to fully explore both – but it’s summer – so white it was! But to finish I did try a couple of reds – one because, naturally, I liked the label and the other because I did the triage and it’s a great wine probably because of that 🙂

My notes on the whites of this 2018 Cave Prestige will be published in my June subscriber’s report – the May report will out first, of-course, next week.
 


2015 Camille Giroud, Santenay 1er La Comme
A modest width of aroma. Hmm, lots of freshness over the palate but there’s depth and intensity too – this blend of energy and delicious flavour, it’s not just captivating, it’s brilliant for the Santenay label. Really excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Cave de Mazenay, Bourgogne Côtes du Couchois Les Parisiennes
It’s the funkiest label of the day – by far – so I’ll try this one!
Really quite a modest nose – not too much to see though on the other hand, nothing negative, either. On the palate there’s a fresh, mouth-filling volume, no hard edges, a little drag to the texture from the tannin, but essentially here is simple, dark-flavoured wine of fun. Nice!
Rebuy – Maybe

Concours des Vins de Chablis – 2016 Vintage

By billn on January 20, 2018 #annual laurels

I know that it’s only January, but it’s that time of year again – the Concours des Vins de Chablis.

The tastings were done this week and results published today, so if you’re looking for a great list of 2016 Chablis – before my Januuary Report (60 domaines visited this month) is published! – then here’s a great place to start 🙂

Goto the results

ICYMI* – a few of my favourite things from 2017 – including the general

By billn on January 04, 2018 #annual laurels#in case you missed it

*In Case You Missed it…

My favourite short sketch: The General…
[winemaker 1]You know, we have have a pet-name for winemaker 2, we call him the General…
[me]And why do you call him the General?
[winemaker 1]Because he puts all the medals he wins on the labels of his bottles…
[winemaker 2]Not all of my medals (winks!)

My favourite quotes:

“And it’s even cheaper in the southern Beaujolais, where granite gives way to golden limestone. The Burgundians are there, too, less because of gamay than to plant pinot noir and chardonnay. Also because the wines can be labeled “Bourgogne” or “Coteaux Bourguignons,” which is to say that the south Beaujolais stands to become for vineyard-starved Burgundy what Entre-Deux-Mers became for Bordeaux: a factory for cheap knockoffs.”
Jon Bonné, here.

“It tasted, or so I imagined, like a muddy truffle that had been dug up moments earlier by a specially trained pig.”
Anne Fadiman on Haut-Brion – here.

My most memorable wines of 2017 – the magnificent 7:
2015 Paul Janin, Moulin à Vent Les Greneriers
1999 Leroy, Savigny 1er Les Narbantons
1997 Lamarche, La Grande Rue
1997 Nicolas Potel, Echézeaux
2016 PYCM, Corton-Charlemagne
1996 Roulot, Meursault Les Luchets
1995 Pinson, Chablis 1er Montmains…

Best Beaujolais Bike-Ride
Link

the trophy winners – burgundy’s young talents of the 2015 vintage!

By billn on November 28, 2017 #annual laurels

This year, I was more than honoured to be asked to be a judge at the blind tastings to determine the young winemaking talents of Burgundy, 2017. Lots of new names and great wines here for you.

The Groupe des Jeunes Professionels de la Vigne were running their event for the 29th time this year, starting with about 80 judges and 100s of wines – all from 2015 – in Chorey-lès-Beaune in October – everything done blind. Last Friday (17 November) took the best of those for a taste-off, held at the Ermitage de Corton – 3 wines from each of 21 producers (so 63 wines), split into 7 regions – this year including, for the first time, the region of ‘Grand Auxerois’.

For the taste off, there were just two judges – myself and fabulously cheek-boned, Parisian wine-professional, Sophia Zaïme – aka MadameWine.

The system was very well thought-out, and behind the tasting that Sophia and I did was a ‘shadow tasting panel’ of winemakers ‘to help’ if the two of us simply couldn’t agree, or indeed they simply couldn’t understand our choices! Fortunately the two of us seemed to have very similar thoughts about the wines – possibly no more than two from 63 wines caused us a little more discussion – quite remarkable really! The wines were tasted ‘single blind’ i.e. we knew the basic appellation but not the climat – or producer of-course – eg Nuts 1er Cru, but not that it was a Vaucrains (for example). At the end of this report I’ll list my top 10 wines of the tasting for those of you who are interested…

That same Friday evening was a dinner in the Palais de Congress of Beaune, 400 people attending – the winemakers with plenty of nice bottles. Here among others, Sophia and I gave out the trophies to the, still unknowing, winners – all under the direction of the force of nature that was Claude Nadeau – our Mistress of Ceremonies!

Only so that you can see just how close it was, you can see my summary below – I won’t give you the tasting notes that I’d carefully attempted in French – only to be told in the end that those were for me to take away! I also (for myself) I scored each wine out of 20 – so a perfect score would have been 60/60 for the three wines. The highest scores I gave were 18.5/20 – 4 wines achieved that. The winner in each case is in bold type:

  • Grand Auxerois:
    Pierre-Louis BERSAN – Domaine BERSAN (50)
    Sophie et Matthieu WOILLEZ – Domaine de la CROIX MONTJOIE (47)
    Nicolas et James FERRARI – Domaine Christophe FERRARI (52)
    Bersan delivered a Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre and two St.Bris – I fell the Côte d’Auxerre could have benefited from a little more energy, but I thought both of the St.Bris excellent. Croix Montjoix supplied a Crémant that had very forceful bubbles and could have had a touch more sweetness or ripeness, then came two Bourgogne Vézalays the first mineral and saline that lacked some definition but the second, however, was excellent, more floral, some sucrosity and long. Finally Ferrari offered one Chablis and two Irancy – the Chablis was complex and round – lovely – but both of the Irancys were excellent, they were both deep, complex wines of great perfume – the second one much more ‘vin de garde‘ in style.
  • Chablis:
    Camille BESSON – Domaine BESSON (49.5)
    Arnaud LAVANTUREUX – Domaine Roland LAVANTUREUX (52)
    Charly NICOLLE – Domaine CHARLY NICOLLE (50)
    Comparisons were made easier in this group, as all the producers offered a Petit Chablis, a Chablis and a Chablis 1er Cru. Of the Petit Chablis the Bessin and Roland Lavantureaux were very close, the Charly Nicole was left behind as it was a little heavy – probably as it was so concentrated. Then for the Chablis it was Charly Nicole and Laventureaux with two really great wines, and Camille Besson only half a point behind with a lovely wine. So it was neck and neck up to the last 1er Cru wine; the Besson was lovely, the Charly Nicole even better, but the Laventureaux was one of my top 4 wines of the tasting – fabulous.
  • Côte de Nuits:
    Laurent FOURNIER– Domaine Jean FOURNIER (50)
    François AMBROISE – Maison AMBROISE (51.5)
    François GALEYRAND – Domaine GALEYRAND (54)
    In this group came my other three top wines of the tasting, and interestingly the wines clearly showed three different ‘hands’ as the styles were so different. First were the wines of Laurent Fournier, starting with a great Bourgogne and then a Côte de Nuits Villages followed by a Marsannay – super wines but really showing their structure – more vin de garde in style. Next were the wines of François Ambroise; the first two – a Bourgogne Blanc and a Côte de Nuits Villages (red) – got high scores from me but it could have been higher if they had been less reductive, the last however, a Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru was just a fabulous wine of depth and complexity which was the second of my 4 top scoring wines. Lastly were three wines from François Galeyrand; a really great Bourgogne that I scored the equal of Laurent Fournier’s, but then a Côte de Nuits Villages and a Gevrey-Chambertin that were my other two top-scoring wines.
  • Côte de Beaune:
    Florian REGNARD – EARL Christian REGNARD (46)
    Alexandre PARIGOT – Domaine PARIGOT (47.5)
    Laurent GAY – Domaine Michel GAY & fils (53)
    The first wines were those of Regnard; A nice enough Bourgogne (HCdB) blanc, though showing plenty of barrel influence. A Chassagne that began tight but slowly opened with aeration then a Maranges 1er Cru that showed more structure and a good length. Parigot also started with a Bourgogne (HCdB), but this time a red one! It had good depth and texture but wasn’t the tastiest wine we encountered. The two wines that followed were very good though – a beautifully aromatic and well structured Beaune 1er and little more modest Pommard 1er. The Michel Gay wines started with an outstanding Bourgogne Pinot Noir – my highest marked wine in this section – 18. There followed an Aloxe-Corton and a Beaune 1er – both excellent and 17.5 each from me. All three of these wines I scored higher than the previous six!
  • Côte Chalonnaise:
    Erell et Flavien NINOT – Domaine NINOT (53)
    Félix DEBAVELAERE – Domaine DES ROIS MAGES (49)
    Benoit ESCHARD – Domaine JEANNIN NALTET (48.5)
    We started with the Ninots, and what a great set of wines – all scoring highly – a crémant, a white Rully and a red Rully 1er cru – We were really left with an impression of confidence from this producer as they tackled three wine styles and all were beautifully executed. The wines of Rois Mages began with a pretty and floral Bourgogne Blanc – delicious but not the purity or freshness for a great score. There followed, like the previous producer, a white Rully and a red 1er Rully – the former fresh, mineral and interesting, the latter also with an engaging minerality and super complexity. Lastly the three from Jeannin-Naltet began unfortunately with an exotically fruited, modest acidity and oaky white Mercurey but the red Mercurey that followed had depth, freshness and nice structure. The last wine from them, a Mercurey 1er was an excellent wine, complex, floral and long with great structure. Like the Côte de Beaune group, before, almost zero discussion needed to choose the winner here.
  • Mâconnais:
    Xavier GREUZARD – Château de la GREFFIERE (50)
    Audrey Braccini – Domaine FERRET-LORTON (48.5)
    Franz-Ludwig GONDARD – Domaine GONDARD PERRIN (48.5)
    A very close group – only one extra good wine for the winner was the difference here. We began with the Greffière wines – the first, a Mâcon rouge was saline, complex and long – lovely wine. The second a Mâcon blanc was fresh, pure and attractive – I thought a little behind the red but lovely. Lastly an excellent St.Véran that was fresh concentrated and long. The wines of Domaine Ferret-Lorton started with a Mâcon that showed very modestly – their weak link – but their two Pouilly-Fuissés were very fine – if rather oaky. Lastly came the three wines of Gondard-Perrin, starting deliciously with a good crémant, their weak link was a Viré-Clessé that whilst concentrated seemed a little too sweet and with too modest energy. Their last wine was super, another Viré-Clessé more airy, complex and energetic – long too – a super wine. In the end it was consistency that gave Greffière their win.
  • Beaujolais:
    Romuald PETIT – Domaine Romuald PETIT (47)
    Didier LAGNEAU – Domaine Gérard et Didier LAGNEAU (50.5)
    Mee GODARD – Domaine MEE GODARD (50.5)
    Six Morgons in our 9 wines and another very tight decision – in fact the tightest! The wines of Romauld Petit began with a really fine Beaujolais Villages, so it was a little surprising that the Morgon that followed showed so modestly – it was a very direct wine, one to wait for, offering only some floral interest. The last wine was another Morgon in what I consider the direct, deep very young Corton-style that Morgon often produces. It was very good but again a style to wait for. The wines of Lagneau started with a Morgon and of much deeper colour than those of Petit. Fresh, pure, spicy and very silky – a super wine. Then came an equally deeply coloured Regnié – vin de garde, pure, tannic and a good complexity. The last wine was another deeply coloured affair, this time a Côte de Brouilly, again vin de garde with just a little more mouth-watering flavour. The last producer (Godard) delivered 3 Morgons; the first open, supple and with a great finish. The second more saline, fresh and complex but a less impressive finish. The last wine was easily the best in this section and the wine that swung our decision – fresh, more volume in the mouth, nicer texture, more mouth-watering and simply the best finish of any of these wines.

My top wines:

18.5/20:
2015 Domaine Roland LAVANTUREUX, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
2015 Maison AMBROISE, Nuits St.Georges 1er cru Les Vaucrains
2015 Domaine GALEYRAND, Côte de Nuits Villages Les Retraits
2015 Domaine GALEYRAND, Gevrey Chambertin En Billard

18.0/20:
2015 Domaine Christophe FERRARI, Irancy
2015 Domaine Christophe FERRARI, Irancy Les Mazelots
2015 Domaine Charly NICOLLE, Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
2015 Domaine Michel GAY & fils, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
2015 Domaine NINOT, Rully 1er Cru Marissou
2015 Domaine Mee GODARD, Morgon Corcelette

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