Liz Palmer with a seemingly important, and under-reported, piece of news from the winegrowers union of Chablis.
The sulfur chemistry article is new – yesterday. I’m finding this a good resourse of well-presented, relatively accessible, wine science articles:
Côte Dijonnaise – click the link for more info.
Anyone who frequents Beaune will likely know the name of Aegerter for their wine-shop, but they also have a domaine and maison based in Nuits St.Georges; here they annually vinify more than 50 hectares worth of grapes from a diverse selection of terroirs in the Côtes de Nuits, the Côte de Beaune, Chablis and the Mâconnais.
Domaine Aegerter are, it seems, hoping to resurrect the old Côte Dijonnaise climat of Rente de Giron, where they have acquired two hectares of vines that they have planted with chardonnay. The first vintage will be available following the 2022 harvest.
Aegerter, are part of a band of vignerons who are hoping to establish a new AOP – the AOP Côtes de Dijon – or maybe that should be ‘re-establish’ – good luck to them!
Just a couple this week:
Distilling a vintage into a few words is never easy – this is not so bad…
Oxidisation – a new word for me – but ‘banal: weary, stale, flat and unprofitable’ – well we’ve all been there, eh? This article is also the first time I even considered that Nathalie Tollot might be the ‘Florence Nightingale of vigneronnes’ – you have been warned…
A few articles of reasonable to great worth that I’ve assembled over the last week or two:
Something to get your teeth into – but not too long…
Given it’s short length, this can only be described as a hit and run piece, but that doesn’t make it any less thought-provoking. I’m reminded that Guillaume d’Angerville recently told me “Since 1905 I’ve made the 7 most precocious harvests of the domaine – all were in the last 15 years…“
A great read – working at an equally great domaine!
And why wouldn’t you find that useful?!
From a week where the first clouds are appearing (literally, not metaphorically) in Burgundy since, for like, weeks! Above, Chassagne village yesterday afternoon…
Olivier is always good value – though his wine prices are another question 😉 At least here you get some insight into why his prices are what they are…
Shake it like a Polaroid picture! Hey ya!
Of-course – they are talking about volume…
Potentially interesting, as Tim seems to have a good handle on Chablis in general – his strength for Burgundy – but somewhat disappointing that there are only 81 notes available if you pay €85 for an annual membership, or more obviously pay €11 for one month if you want to get it all in one hit. Perhaps the paucity of notes reflects the early timing of such a visit? Or maybe the rest are all on Tim’s personal site…
For Jane McQuitty’s view of the 2017 vintage in the Mâconnais you fill find a free trial option…
Full of generalisms but also very nice pictures!
Looking over Volnay Caillerets today…
I’ve been collecting and saving these up over the last couple of weeks – I’ve lost a few too – I’ll take more care next time!
Of-course Jancis gets a star billing – I think I already have too many glasses to research further – I don’t break them often enough – that’s my main problem!
One has to hope that the new (part) owners will get direct input into the running of the estate – it’s a property with massive potential – despite the good intentions of the sons, the father is seemingly (to me) still quite dominant and seems set in his ways – let’s see!
An oldie but a goodie. I wouldn’t dream of decanting old wines – though sometimes make an exception for a reductive 30 year-old white – yes, that used to be a thing! But young wines of both colours, often bottled with too much CO2 gas, plus sometimes a reduction will benefit no end…
The winning wines from the last Tastevinage blind tasting – I should have been there but had guests, so…
A simple abc of Chablis…
I like this piece very much – another level vs the linked article on Chablis as there is detail, there are statistics and there is much to mull over – excellent!
- The effect of root exudates on rhizosphere water dynamics
Actually, far more interesting than it looks at first glance – It’s not every day you get to reference Jethro Tull!(1)
I’m considering it – because it seems I have to drink Bouzeron rather than take on the Beaune Half-Marathon!
Well, one assumes that there has to be some effect – notably in the earlier ripening vintages, Hautes Côtes and other higher vines do very, very well – I’m still waiting for Romanée St.Vivant to best Romanée-Conti though – I think it may be a long wait for that one…
I note that this week the Henri Boillot 2017s offer has once-more winged into my inbox – almost one month after its first circulation. At first it looks the same – but then it’s interesting to note that the most expensive stuff is now all gone; no more Chevalier-Montrachet, Montrachet or Chambertin – the others are hanging on. From some very limited perspectives – the market remains strong – shame that’s only 0.1% of production…
1 Tull J. 1762 Horse-hoeing husbandry: or, an essay on the principles of vegetation and tillage. London, UK: printed for A. Millar.
I like that you engaged with me on the wordpress site – because it’s permanent – so 24-48 hours later you can’t delete everything, as has been your penchant on twitter or facebook for the last couple of years. I think the average ‘wordpress-smith’ couldn’t care less, but other audiences maybe more-so…
Your narrative seems to have evolved to the extent that everyone who criticises you, or your (previous) actions is a racist. So… I ask myself, and you:
- Was I racist when I gave my site to you (your fledgling business) as a platform? (e.g. here*)
*You can find all Ray’s posts here.
- Or was I racist when I wrote a short, and positive, profile of your domaine and your wines following my first visit to taste, here?
- Or was I racist when I sent you, before publication, my article on the end of Maison Ilan? In which your interview comments are quoted in full – to which you never responded until, obliquely, now, 23 months later, that it was slanderous and racist…
- Or was I just a racist when I pointed to the long list of people who had parted with money but didn’t get the wine they ordered – by the way, in most countries that’s classed as fraud – or the long list of creditors, or the lack of rent payments, or the seizing of your wines, or the ensuing court case that you lost? – Is that when I became racist?
I will still refrain from name calling, or the discussion of any future ventures that you may be involved in, because maybe you have learned lessons(?) You can certainly take up your “that you incorrectly cited as not having a business rental agreement with Maison Ilan” with the Gouges family. It’s a quote from them – if they tell me different, I will change it.
You are right that, as described by you, Casey comes across as dealing with you in a highly unethical manner, I can’t comment of the legality of his actions. But your (very many) creditors will likely only see a small shark being eaten by a larger shark. That the larger shark got indigestion and came out of the process, seemingly, with nothing, probably only means that (with hindsight) like all your other creditors, Casey probably regrets having become involved with you during this period. Please, though, don’t blame Casey for customers never getting 2011s and 2012s (I won’t criticise you over delaying the 2010 Corbeaux) – after-all, his mythical million came in 2015 – your 2011 and 2012 customers should have had those wines delivered long before…
A few things I’ve read in the last days:
- Opinion: We all need to get over our Burgundy obsession. Now.
- The financial risks of chasing scarce Burgundy wines
You need a subscription as well as deep pockets for this – but I’m sure the Jayer buyers are not even a little interested in the concept of ‘low liquidity‘ – bizarre at it sounds in the context of wine!
- Clonal selection to blame for premox, says Laroche winemaker
Of-course that’s a bullshit headline from the team at DB – clonal selection potentially being a contributing factor, as opposed to being singled out for a stupid headline. There is much to debate here though – I’m one of Grégory’s biggest fans – he makes stunning Chablis at Laroche and I love his personal label for Irancy – but that doesn’t mean we have to agree on everything – we sit in completely different camps when it comes to DIAM for instance. Thought provoking quotes, nonetheless…
- 10 Burgundy Pinot Noirs for Your Cellar
For an interestingly eclectic choice of wines…