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home harvest day -1

Back to Beaune, and it’s a lot warmer here than it was in Bern! There has been a little rain in both the Côte d’Or and Chablis over the weekend, which will help with grape maturity.

Over the weekend, and today, there were more producers jumping into the vines to pick, and it wasn’t just Côte de Beaune whites; Domaine de la Vougeraie were already underway on Friday, they usually publish some daily bulletins, but so-far, there’s nothing online – I assume it’s imminent! Their brother/sister operation of JC Boisset began today in Volnay-Santenots.

On Saturday, the team at Clos des Lambrays began their assault – but not with their Puligny (which Boris Champy described as still a little heterogeneous), rather with their Morey premier cru. Today was to be their first day of picking in the Clos itself. Just to underline the inconsistency of maturity, Louis Bouillot only started their crémant harvest today in the Côte de Nuits.

Of-course some of the usual subjects have been underway in Meursault, Dominique Lafon opening his account with Gouttes d’Or on Saturday, where according to @justjasper, he was joined by Arnaud Ente. Yesterday Olivier Lamy was bringing in St.Aubin Derrière Chez Eduard and Criots Bâtard-Montrachet.

Tomorrow, my home domaine in Beaune will begin – secateurs time!
 

july’s burgundy-report is online…

Just in time to get my teeth into the harvest, next week, July’s report is now online – so it’s only a notional ‘holiday’ that there’s no August report 🙂

July marks the first serious tastings of 2017s at a modest number of domaines – but a vintage that largely had very fast malos so the wines are already ‘readable.’ There’s also a big blind tasting of Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly from multiple vintages, 2017-2011, but predominantly from 2017-2015. Then there are the beautiful 2016 Mâcons of Les Artisans Vignerons de Bourgogne du Sud.

I hope that you will enjoy…

the 2018 harvesters – so far…

I initially thought that he was the first – he’s certainly in the vanguard – but although Benoit Ente of Puligny-Montrachet started picking the first of his 2018 whites today, he was beaten by his brother Arnaud who started yesterday. The siblings are not alone; Chandon de Briailles – hardly an early picker – picked Corton-Charlemagne today ‘that was perfectly ripe.

Doimaine Hubert Lamy plan to cut their first grapes tomorrow…

According to various sources, the ripeness is quite variable right now – including Véronique Drouhin – who, like my own harvest home-domaine (all Côte de Beaune vines) begins her picking next week – it will be a Tuesday the 28th start for me – but most of the Côte de Nuits is still waiting. David Croix confirms that the maturity is variable but tells me “Well, Corton reds are ripe and ready while most of the rest suffers from the drought. I haven’t decided yet when we will start.

It’s reported that there is a general backdrop – just like last year – of difficulty finding harvesters, France Bleu noting last week that there were still 1,600 open positions. Interesting to note in the reportage, that if you pay an agency to bring 25 pickers, you will be paying them €4,000 per hectare. Reasons provided for the shortage of pickers/porters seem to be a combination of new laws about providing accommodation, low unemployment and not just an early start to the vintage, but also an early start to the academic year for students. One can only imagine how much more difficult it might have been if the harvest was in a cold and wet period in October!

Anyway Domaine Boyer-Martenot took to Twitter today to try to fill their harvest team – and it worked:

weekend wine – week 33 2018

I’ve mainly been catching up on some Mâcon samples for this week’s publication of the July report, but something rouge still managed to slip past our lips…

2014 Sophie & Guillaume Joncy, Côte de Brouilly La Trad’ Nature
Red wax-topped. Plenty of colour. Hmm, a nose of depth, in a faintly lactic, ‘natural,’ style – call it sauvage – but not only is this still a lovely invitation, with extended aeration the nose becomes more pure cherry-fruited. Good volume – round and really mouth-filling – with a fine texture. A bottle that empties at quite a rate – super-tasty wine!

And a little Canton Bern wanderings from the weekend:
 

offer of the day – clos des lambrays, bruno clair, d’angerville – 2016s

Domaine Clos des Lambrays
Clos des Lambrays 2011 150cl 278.00* (Swiss Francs)
Clos des Lambrays 2013 75cl 159.00
Clos des Lambrays 2014 75cl 159.00
Clos des Lambrays 2014 150cl 323.00
Clos des Lambrays 2016 75cl 225.00
Clos des Lambrays 2016 300cl 960.00

Domaine Bruno Clair
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru 2016 75cl 115.00
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2016 75cl 325.00
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2016 75cl 385.00

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru 2016 75cl 105.00
Volnay Champans 1er Cru 2016 75cl 129.00

The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 8% Swiss purchase tax. My throwaway remarks are that we can see a significant price increase at Lambrays since it became part of LVMH, also that Bruno Clair’s 2016 Bèze, despite being one of my wines of the vintage, is simply far too expensive…

if ever there was a (real) unicorn wine…

Following up on my previous post – ‘already time for jayer’s records to fall?‘ – Finally some detail is available from Sotheby’s on their October sale.

I’d assumed Romanée-Conti 1945 to be a unicorn wine, but that can’t be, because there are two bottles in this sale – and for the first time in 15 years, Rudy Kurniawan hasn’t been anywhere near an RC 1945 label!

I must say that the pre-sale estimates for the 1945s look laughable – how about 100k+ per bottle, or 250K? I think much higher, I expect the record from the Henri Jayer sale to be obliterated!

I asked the question, but it seems that Robert Drouhin doesn’t want to do any interviews on the subject of this sale, that said, I still managed to relay a question through ‘channels’ along the lines of: “I was interested in one of the videos that Maurice wrote back to his wife (from German prison) to tell her that it was time to start bottling one of the vintages of the DRCs. For the French/Belgian markets; was that a decision for the maison, rather than the domaine? Or simply because Maison Drouhin elevaged their own barrels – or…?” To which I kindly recieved the following response:

We have little in the way of archives but in a couple of letters from Maurice to his wife we see that he purchased part of the wines of DRC (but not RC) in the 1938 & 1940 vintages (La Tâche, Richebourg, Grands Echezeaux…) Maurice decided on the bottling of those wines. The corks and labels were provided by the Domaine. We don’t know for 1939.

Fascinating…

– – – – – – –
Sotheby’s Press Release:

An Historic Offering of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
*The World’s Most Celebrated Producer*
Featuring 100 Lots of Legendary Vintages Spanning from 1937 to 1964
Emerging from the Personal Collection of Mr. Robert Drouhin,
Patriarch of Maison Joseph Drouhin & Longtime Distributor for DRC
As Close to a Direct-from-the-Cellar Auction of DRC as Has Ever Been Held
Auction 13 October at Sotheby’s New York

NEW YORK, 16 August 2018 – Sotheby’s is honored to present Rare Domaine de la Romanée-Conti from the Personal Cellar of Robert Drouhin in a dedicated auction of 100 lots on 13 October 2018 in New York. This historic offering of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is emerging precisely after more than 50 years in the cellar of Mr. Robert Drouhin, patriarch of the family-run Maison Joseph Drouhin, who is internationally recognized as one of the wine industry’s most renowned figures.

The sale will offer DRC vintages spanning from 1937 through to 1964, acquired by Mr. Drouhin and his father, Maurice, directly from DRC, mostly during their time as the exclusive distributors in France and Belgium for the Domaine – a highly-covetable attribute that amplifies the collection’s pristine provenance. Superlative bottles of Maison Joseph Drouhin from Grands Crus will also be on offer from 1959, 1961 and 1962. The sale this October will present collectors with an unmatched opportunity to acquire legendary vintages of DRC, with only one owner since being removed from the cellar of the world’s most celebrated producer.

This unprecedented selection comes to market during a remarkable surge in demand for wines from Burgundy, which has steadily increased over the last five years. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti reigns supreme within the region – in fact, DRC has led Sotheby’s Wine’s Annual Market Report as Top Producer every year since we began our yearly rankings in 2013.

WATCH: ROBERT DROUHIN RECOUNTS THE AMAZING STORY OF HIS FAMILY’S ESTATE AND PERSONAL WINE CELLAR

Robert Drouhin said: “It is a great pleasure to offer these 100 lots at auction with Sotheby’s Wine in October. These wines span four decades and are filled with remarkable and historic vintages from one of the world’s greatest Domaines. I have had access to these remarkable wines for many years, given that Maison Drouhin was the exclusive importer of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in France and Belgium from the late 1920’s to the early 1960’s. The wines being offered have never left Beaune and have been in my private cellar, undisturbed, for more than 50 years. I have been fortunate to enjoy many of these exceptional bottles with friends and family over the years, and now it is time to share them with others. I hope that the buyers of these wines will know how scarce they are, how good the wines should be, and drink them with friends and family who can appreciate and enjoy them the right way.

Serena Sutcliffe, MW, Honorary Chairman of Sotheby’s Wine, commented: “It is a great privilege for us to offer this historic collection of wines from the Drouhin family’s legendary cellar. This is an enchanted kingdom in the realm of wine and we are honoured to be asked to bring these precious bottles to auction. The vintages are among the greatest ever made in Burgundy, both extremely rare and gloriously individual. The perfect provenance stems from the long relationship between the Domaine de la Romanée Conti and the Drouhin family, two of the most respected names in Burgundy. The breathtaking line-up of DRC’s stunning vineyard sites brings back memories of vocabulary-defying wines that are imbued with the excitement and complexity of tasting at its pinnacle. One can hardly believe that these wines still exist – but, happily, they do! The icing on the proverbial cake is in the Drouhin Grands Crus from three show-stopping years, a complement to the DRC treasures. This is Burgundy’s Gift to the World.

WATCH: SERENA SUTCLIFFE DELVES INTO THE PERSONAL CELLAR OF ROBERT DROUHIN

ABOUT MAISON JOSEPH DROUHIN

Maison Joseph Drouhin is internationally recognized as one of Burgundy’s foremost négociants and wine producers.

Established in 1880 by Joseph Drouhin, the domaine began acquiring vineyards in 1919 under the direction of his son, Maurice, after years of solely purchasing grapes to produce the quality wines for which it had become known in Beaune. Over several years, Maurice fostered close relationships with some of Burgundy’s most prominent families and business owners, including those of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. From circa 1928 through to circa 1964, Maison Drouhin was the exclusive distributor of all DRC wines in France and Belgium – a highly-respected position that also afforded Maurice the opportunity to own many valuable pre-war wines, some of which will be offered in the October sale.

With so many great wines in the cellars of Maison Drouhin, the collection became a target for the Germans during World War II. Acutely aware of the value of these precious commodities, Maurice built a wall inside the cellars – a labyrinth of ancient paths and vaults located underneath the city of Beaune — to conceal an impeccable selection of wines, largely comprised of DRC. His son Robert, then just 8 years old, gathered cobwebs and dirt to spread about the fortress in an effort to hide the newly-built chamber. Maurice’s instinct to hide the wines would soon prove to be sound. In August 1941, he was arrested by the German police while on his way to the Hospices de Beaune, a well-known charity hospital where he served as vice president.

Accused of engaging in anti-German activity, a result of his suspected role in the French Resistance, Maurice remained in prison for several months. While in custody, he often wrote to his wife, Pauline, about how best to safeguard their cellar and the Drouhin business. It was on a visit to see her husband that Pauline delivered the news of an exciting opportunity: DRC was prepared to sell half of its business, and Maison Joseph Drouhin, their largest distributor, could acquire a significant portion of the estate. While imprisoned, Maurice was unsure of his fate and also unable to obtain a bank loan, so he declined to purchase shares of the famed producer.

Though he was released in February 1942, in June 1944, Maurice again found himself a target of German forces, who were prepared to re-arrest him, having now obtained sufficient evidence to support their initial suspicions. Maurice had anticipated the likely event, and as officers knocked on the door of his Beaune home, he escaped through a window and descended into the cellars, which ran from the Drouhin’s home to the Hospices de Beaune. It was buried beneath Beaune where Maurice would remain hidden by nuns from the Hospices until the city was liberated in September 1944.

After the war, Maurice returned to work fulltime for Maison Drouhin until he suffered stroke in 1955. Having remained in the Drouhin family for more than a century, the management of the domaine was transferred in 1957 to his son, Robert Drouhin, who grew the burgeoning company into a dynamic and expansive global business with vineyards located throughout the Côte d’Or, Chablis and Oregon. Today, Maison Joseph Drouhin is managed by the founder’s four grandchildren, Frédéric, Véronique, Philippe and Laurent, who, under the tutelage of their father, Robert, continue to uphold their family’s legacy and “passion for vine and wine”.
 


Photos courtesy Sotheby’s Press Office…

AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS
ROMANÉE CONTI | 16 Lots

  • 1 MG 1937 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $30,000 – $40,000 (3 Lots)
  • 1 BT 1938 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $20,000 – $30,000
  • 1 BT 1945 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $22,000 – $32,000 (2 Lots)
  • 2 BT 1954 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $20,000 – $30,000
  • 2 BT 1959 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $13,000 – $18,000 (2 Lots)
  • 2 BT 1961 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $18,000 – $25,000
  • 2 BT 1962 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $16,000 – $24,000
  • 2 BT 1964 Romanée Conti, DRC est. $15,000 – $20,000

LA TÂCHE | 23 Lots

  • 1 BT 1941 La Tâche, DRC est. $3,000 – $4,000
  • 1 BT 1942 La Tâche, DRC est. $4,000 – $6,000
  • 3 BT 1943 La Tâche, DRC est. $11,000 – $15,000
  • 3 BT 1945 La Tâche, DRC est. $18,000 – $26,000 (2 Lots)
  • 3 BT 1949 La Tâche, DRC est. $15,000 – $20,000 (2 Lots)
  • 1 MG 1959 La Tâche, DRC est. $10,000 – $15,000 (4 Lots)
  • 4 BT 1964 La Tâche, DRC est. $10,000 – $15,000

RICHEBOURG | 47 Lots

  • 3 BT 1947 Richebourg, DRC est. $9,000 – $15,000 (4 Lots)
  • 3 BT 1952 Richebourg, DRC est. $10,000 – $15,000 (12 Lots)
  • 3 BT 1959 Richebourg, DRC est. $9,000 – $15,000 (10 Lots)
  • 3 BT 1961 Richebourg, DRC est. $5,000 – $7,500 (10 Lots)
  • 3 BT 1964 Richebourg, DRC est. $10,000 – $15,000 (2 Lots)

MAISON JOSEPH DROUHIN | 9 Lots

  • BT 1962 Griotte Chambertin, Maison Joseph Drouhin est. $6,000 – $9,000 (2 Lots)
  • 6 BT 1959 Clos de la Roche, Maison Joseph Drouhin est. $4,000 – $6,000 (2 Lots)
  • 6 BT 1962 Bonnes Mares, Maison Joseph Drouhin est. $6,000 – $9,000 (3 Lots)
  • 6 BT 1961 Musigny, Maison Joseph Drouhin est. $9,000 – $12,000 (2 Lots)

– – – – – – –

glyphosate – ‘a gift from god’

This is a very important principle.

Properly used, in the dosages recommended, there are no reputable scientific studies that point to a cancer link with glyphosate. Not yet anyway! The single study (in over 40 years of studies) that suggests a link between the two has been accused of cherry-picking some data and avoiding contrary data. That’s why there is peer review of science, not courts of law to decide such things. The recent award of almost $290 million is a travesty, sorry as the case of the individal is.

Let’s be clear about this, I don’t condone the use of Roundup where expensive wines are produced, it is not just lazy, it is indecently money-grabbing when there are so many alternative manual approaches. But this particular molecule has benefited millions, if not billions of people and animals when it comes to the production of basic foodstuffs. Monsanto are an easy target, indeed they are a deserved target for some of their approaches, practices, and some other of their products, but a CEO of that company once described Glyphosate as ‘a gift from god,’ and, so-far, there is no credible evidence to the contrary…

general maturity update – part 2

I asked Mathew Mangenot of Domaines Albert Bichot for his rather wider view than my tour on Friday allowed:

Chablis and especially Mâcon were in a situation of drought at the end of July, causing a delay in the initiation of véraison – they had just a small amount of rain amount in July, a few mm versus 60 to 80 in the Cote de Nuits.

The extreme heat of the 10 first days of August didn’t help the maturation process, but on the other side, helped to keep everything sound from a sanitary aspect.

The recent rain has really made everything easier, and the sugar accumulation has started, keeping away the phenomenon of concentration. I don’t currently expect that acidity levels will be very high – due to the extreme heat – except if concentration comes back with lack of water.

Cote de Nuits (and Cote de Beaune) look fine due to rain in July. Some more rain will be needed to achieve maturation in good conditions.

À très bientôt!

general maturity update, with côte de beaune pics…


Volnay 1er Clos Santenots – today…

Whilst the northern Mâconnais and southern Nuits, remain a sorry spots, given 2x hail, most of the rest of the Côte d’Or, Chablis and Beaujolais look resplendent!

Whilst many areas of France – and I would include the Mâconnais and Beaujolais – lack rain so have a little maturity-blockage due to the high temperatures, the Côte d’Or seems to be in great shape. The temperatures have not been lower than elsewhere, but heavy downpours have come consistently every 10-14 days – the last heavy ones have been the 25th July and 9th August. There is no lack of water in the Côte d’Or where the volume of rain is the largest since 2004 – but its still an early (so far) vintage with little else in common with that year.

I toured the Côte de Beaune this morning, and apart from a few bruised or split grapes from the hail, the vines and the grapes look in very good shape – veraison certainly a little behind in Pommard Rugiens (Hautes) where I saw only 50-90% completion. All-in-all, looking good – whites still on for a harvest start well into August, the reds, clearly needing a little more time. Fingers crossed, it’s stormy out there!

First, the whites:
 


Second, almost all reds!:
 

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