some weekend wines – week 11 2019

By billn on March 20, 2019 #degustation


Shock – almost forgot to post this!

2015 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Bearoy
Beauroy is rarely the most interesting of the 1ers – the extra clay here bring more roundness to the wines – but whatever – this 2015 was singing.
Fresh on the nose, some riper citrus for sure. In the mouth, it could only come from Chablis – plenty of salinity the giveaway. Delicious tasty wine that costs not a lot. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Seguinot-Bordet, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Clearly there’s a little more zip to this more open and fresh nose – still a ripe citrus aroma, but somehow leaner. This is exactly as I remember it from tasting at the domaine – dynamic, crystalline, über-delicious wine. A treat!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Thillardon, La Haut – Le Blanc de Thillardon VDF
From 8 hl/ha. A crémant bottle with a crown-cap as there’s 5g residual sugar in this – just in case it decides to ferment in the future – it’s already 14° and no sulfur.
Cloudy – plenty of yeasty dregs from the last pour too. The nose is deep and far from pure but has a sort of yeasty crémant style to it. Fresh, petillant very tasty wine. The sort of moreish wine that you have to keep going back to despite its manifold faults. So Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Boudriotte Rouge
Relatively light, and aging colour. The nose is a lovely, already leafy and sweet invitation. There’s still concentration to this open wine, and a sweetness of fruit too – but – the mid and finishing flavours still have a surprising amount of harsh, bitter wood. I like the start, but I don’t like the finish. On day three the last half a glass is a smoothie, so I’m sure the oak will continue to fade – but wait at least 2 more years I think…
Rebuy – Maybe

2005 Roger Belland, Santenay-Commes 1er
The earliest wine that has a DIAM that I have in the cellar – I think I have some of his Santenay-Beauregard too which will also be DIAM.
As you can see, the ‘cork’ remains in perfect condition, and probably this wine is better than at any stage of its life, a full, super-fruity, deep nose of far more purity than I remember when young – the oak most have been eaten by now! Like wise plenty of richness of fruit on the palate and super clarity for a Santenay of this era – certainly from this producer. Perfect shape and absolutely delicious!
Rebuy – Yes

february 2019 report –

By billn on March 19, 2019 #reports

[Online for subscribers]

The, now, regular February report that has Beaujolais as its main focus. Including my 2017 vintage summary and highlights – as always, including a bunch of new names – in total 45 domaines and over 300 wines.

Look-out for some explanation, plus discussion and notes on the first vintage for the Bourgogne Côte d’Or label too – 2017. Enjoy!

A Burgundy Report EXTRA! subscription costs 85 Swiss Francs per year.

starting monday with a little vézelay

By billn on March 18, 2019 #degustation


Tasted blind, today, in Chablis, samples courtesy the domaines…

To get this week started, five very drinkable wines from the home of this year’s St.Vincent.

2017 is the first vintage for the villages appellation of ‘Vézelay’ – previous to that, the wines were labeled as Bourgogne Vézelay. 2017 was also a very low volume vintage for Vézelay – 1,320 hectolitres from not much more than 70 hectares that were in production – that’s only about 18 hl/ha – like Chablis there was much frost in 2017.

One of the Croix Montjoie wines is a little obviously oaked, but when you see the cuvée name – well that explains everything 🙂

2017 Vignerons de la Colline Éternelle, Vézelay
Medium-pale yellow. In the mouth this has plenty of volume and quite a nice texture – supple and showing a nice ripeness of tasty fruit. The finish has a little mineral aspect with the merest touch of rigour. Overall, very drinkable.

2017 Domaine La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay La Voluptueuse
A hint more colour. A wider nose with a touch of oak spice. Again a mouth-filling wine – sweet, silky, the oak is quite forward in a more Mâconnais style. Very delicious, if very obvious, wine – but fine finishing. I’d keep this in the cellar 12 months before drinking.

2017 Domaine La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay L’Élégant
Here the nose is on one hand more compact, but on the other of finer, more precise citrus fruit and even a few floral accents – very attractive. Plenty of energy – much more acid-forward – some agrume intensity here but also some richer depth of flavor in the mid-palate. Ooh this is less delicious than the last but more my personal style of wine – it’s excellent!

2017 Domaine La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay L’Impatiente
Like the last, the nose is a little more compact, but showing fresh citrus fruit and even a little salinity – attractive again. A little more energy and some minerality showing with this one too – much more in a Chablis/Tonnerre vernacular. A little richness of texture and less direct attack from the acidity. My favourite.

2017 Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter, Vézelay Réserve Personelle
The is the only wine sealed with a DIAM-style cork.
Fresh, wide, open, citrus accents, almost a little lime fruit and phenolics in here. A subtle prickle of CO2 and a modestly reductive mineral impression. This brings a wide impression over the palate and it’s another wine with a nice texture. Whilst it’s the most overtly mineral finishing – less-so in the Chablis/Tonnerre style of the last. Carafe this, but it’s a very good wine.

onward and upwards – les duresses

By billn on March 14, 2019 #picture gallery#warning - opinion!


June 2018.

It can be complicated – there are three interested parties here – not including the ones actually doing the work!

As you can see from the sunny pictures, taken last June, this beautiful corner of Auxey-Duresses, sitting on a corner that looks towards both the Moulin des Moines and Monthèlie, was more than a little run-down. You see this, or much worse, across most of the vineyards of Burgundy, but since achieving UNESCO World Heritage status, there are certain grants available to those people who (correctly) want to shore-up the basis of their livelihoods – the vineyards. It’s important for the tourists too!

This one is more complicated because the owner is not the exploiter – it’s one of the Meursault Bouzereau’s who works the vines in this particular plot, but on a fermage basis. So you have the winemakers, the owners and the UNESCO foundation who are all contributing to this work.

Here there’s a house that stands alone, a house that I’ve always admired but has always seemed to be empty – probably due to the 80 km/h (++!) road that’s directly in front – there’s no sign, but the locals call it Maison des Duresses – but it has seen much updating in the last 12 months. Likewise for the last few months a fine piece of renovation can be seen to the wall that extends from the house in the direction of Monthèlie, and includes these beautiful pillars with a stairway. The guy doing the work told me that he’s not usually alone doing this – but he was yesterday afternoon – but that he’d also worked a little on the stones so that the name of the old owners would be more legible.

A lovely piece of work!
 

let’s call it an hommage, shall we?

By billn on March 13, 2019 #other sites

I read Christie’s recent posting with a sense of deja-vu – it was less than a couple of hundred words in their summary of Domaine Rousseau, and it was also far from identical – but I think the resemblance is stark.

1. Christie’s this week:
“In 1951 Charles Rousseau found himself at Victoria Station in London clutching two suitcases: one contained his neatly pressed shirts and trousers, and the other was stuffed with bottles of glorious burgundies form (sic) his family’s vineyards in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin. He visited his sole foreign client, a director at the British Broadcasting Corporation, before pounding the pavements of London, peering through shop windows to see if they sold wine within.
The bemused wine merchants smiled kindly at him and his wines before wishing him well on his way out…”

2. Me in 2005 and 2016:
“To that end in 1951 he found himself in London’s Victoria Station, two suitcases by his side. He first visited that very rare thing – an existing ‘foreign’ client – a director of the BBC, before setting about visiting as many companies as possible who might have an interest in his wines. He mainly chose his targets by looking through their windows to see if they already sold wine!
It was tough; his targets were happy, if rather bemused, to entertain Charles in their offices…”

I’ve pointed the similarities out, without response.

some weekend wines – week 10 2019

By billn on March 12, 2019 #degustation

2013 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée
My first from this mixed case. Ooh what a great looking cork – a fine ‘pop’ as it’s extracted too – but the cork doesn’t smell very nice.
Is it corked? – well, not easy to tell as there’s plenty of toasty reduction. Wide, supple, the palate is suffused with the reductive note of the nose but then a broad and tall finishing wave of great flavour – the texture is fine here. I give this wine the old ‘Fourrier-shake’ and it seems that there’s plenty of CO2 to dislodge. The reductive note fades, but never disappears – the cork note that takes over is stark – ouch!
Rebuy – almost certainly Yes (without the TCA…)

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonneuse
A new case – of 7!
Fresh and ripe lemon on the nose – more ripe than I remember when first opening – but it adds more focus with time. The palate is still dynamic, fresh, and sweetly ripe. Bravo – still great villages…
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Domaine Diconne, Auxey-Duresses Vieilles-Vignes
Hmm – this seems to be my last one – I clearly have an errand…
A nose that’s a real invitation – there’s the impression of freshness but also of concentration. Silky and intense. Mobile and wide over the palate, I love the energy but depth of pure flavour here – excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes

tuesday, st.romain via volnay…

By billn on March 12, 2019 #asides


The tree at the top of Volnay Clos des Santenots – in full bloom!

I often get distracted whilst underway – at least when the rain stops! The almond tree in Santenots this morning was just the latest example – it didn’t make me too late for my appointment today, though.

I’ve meant to do it for years, but this morning I finally visited a tonnellerie, and not just any, but François Frères a) of St.Romain but b) of rather more global fame. More in my March report, but here’s a ‘flavour’ of my visit:
 

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