Easy – that was Mee Godard’s 2017 Morgon Côte du Py – it was deelish!
Unfortunately, she didn’t have any left at the domaine to sell – her dog didn’t seem to care though…
My end of last week meeting with Marko de Morey de la Vosne brought the chance to taste a three (excellent) recently opened bottles – here you go:
2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Medium-plus colour. Ripe, but this is still a nose of fine-berried precision – lots of depth to the aroma. Hmm, that’s wide, sweetly fruited and showing only a modest tannin in the mouth – long with faint bitters in the finish, but also a wine that shows a nice plump but not fat texture. Admirably long and decadently super – if you must drink one of these now, this is the one!
Rebuy – Yes
2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts
Perhaps a faint shade less colour than the Suchots. Aromas that are a little more airy and high-toned – precise berries again but with a different shape to the Suchots. Narrower in the mouth – the Suchots is a wide wine, this a wine that’s narrower but showing more drive and direction – a wine that’s got somewhere to go! Less weight of flavour in the finish but no less long, here with a perceptible oak in the finish – though faint. The Suchots catches the eye more today but in 8-10 years I think the gap will be much narrower. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes
2017 Michel Noellat, Clos de Vougeot
Medium-plus colour. Not a big nose but one of purity and depth – very inviting – the precision of berries of the last with a little extra aromatic transparency. Ooh – that’s sleek with driving flavour – and the flavour is vibrant in the certainly more structured mid-palate. Ooh, this will be lovely but it’s quite the baby wine today. Long, long, finishing. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes
Mont Blanc was showing well in the sunshine today – all 30°C worth of sun – not bad for the end of September.
I also saw some of the last pickers of the 2019 harvest today – in the hills above Fleurie – the hinterland behind Fleurie’s La Madone – it must be cooler here, everything else looked picked. The wind was gusting in the late afternoon – as we arrived back in Beaune, in the early evening, all was grey and a little damp – the wind had followed us!
2014 Jean-Claude Bessin, Chablis Valmur
A small but perfectly formed nose – a wine that is clearly far from open – except that it opens wide and with such persistence in the middle and finishing flavours. Pure, crystaline, only modestly complex today but pure, pure, pure – what a beautiful, if seemingly delicate thing today – practically ephemeral – so good!
Rebuy – Yes!
1993 Bonnefond, Ruchottes-Chambertin
A wine that’s been in my possesion for a long time – bought at Berry Bros & Rudd many years ago – I saved it for one of my end-of-vintage encounters with Marko de Morey – and this year I remembered!
In my evening lighting, this is a wine with plenty of colour – and not obviously aged colour at that. The nose is far from massive but what a nose – complex, growing, precise – pure yet with modest earth and dried leaves – it’s a real sniffer’s wine! Beautiful over the palate – so transparent though with a faint extra bump of tannin in the incredibly long finishing flavour.So elegant, so complex – practically timeless – I probably wouldn’t have guessed a 1990s wine despite the aromatic complexity. Really quite something – a wine that dances over the palate and stays long, long, long – bravo! Plenty of tannin solids drop into the glass with the final pour.
Rebuy – Yes!
Plus a couple of pics from a nice evening run from Beaune to Bligny-lès-Beaune to Pommard and back through the vines to Beaune, catching the last rays of the sun!
1999 Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Au Dessus des Malconsorts
Typical – but we all know this feeling! I’ve only 2 or 3 more from this case of 12 and this was easily the best of all!
Typical 1999, but aromatically and from a flavour perspective – yes there’s depth, but this is a wine of line and of energy, rather than a spreading width of texture. Really, clean as a whistle, vibrant and with a fine complexity. My better half prefers young wine, but she took a second glass of this!
Rebuy – Yes
2017 JJ Confuron, Côte de Nuits Villages Au Leurey
Plenty of depth to the colour for this 2017. The nose is deep and attractively fresh fruited – almost to the point of suggesting a little CO2 – but the palate shows no carbonated grain. In the mouth – woosh – deep, lots of energy and just a little plushness to the texture – delicious ripe but fresh young fruit – I don’t mind if I do take a second glass – again! Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes
Domaine Henri Boillot 2018 – en primeur
I leave you with the 2017 pricing in brackets. There’s not much pricing restraint here, despite the very high yields (for whites) in 2018. It’s pretty shocking really:
Bourgogne Chardonnay 2018 75cl 26.00* (23.00) Swiss Francs
Meursault 2018 75cl 55.00 (49.00)
Meursault Les Charmes 2018 75cl 95.00 (89.00)
Meursault Les Genevrières 2018 75cl 115.00 (108.00)
Meursault Les Perrières 2018 75cl 125.00 (115.00)
Puligny-Montrachet 2018 75cl 55.00 (52.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2018 75cl 115.00 (108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 2018 75cl 115.00 (108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 2018 75cl 115.00 (108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 2018 75cl 115.00 (108.00)
Corton Charlemagne 2018 75cl 175.00 (168.00)
Criots-Bâtard Montrachet 2018 75cl 319.00 (296.00)
Bâtard Montrachet 2018 75cl 469.00 (455.00)
Chevalier-Montrachet 2018 75cl 698.00 (688.00)
Montrachet 2018 75cl 845 (795.00)
Volnay 2018 75cl 49.00 (49.00)
Volnay Les Chevrets 2018 75cl 89.00 (89.00)
Volnay Les Caillerets 2018 75cl 99.00 (99.00)
Pommard Les Rugiens 2018 75cl 99.00 (99.00)
Clos de Vougeot 2018 75cl 169.00 (158.00)
Latricières-Chambertin 2018 75cl 219.00 (not offered)
Echézeaux 2018 75cl 229.00 (not offered)
Bonnes-Mares 2017 75cl 319.00 (298.00)
Chambertin 2017 75cl 319.00 (298.00)
*The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 8% Swiss purchase tax.
Okay, the black and white ones were Friday night, but that’s practically the weekend!
2016 Chablisienne, Chablis Grenouilles
Honestly, I never used to understand why La Chablisienne would serve this cru last when I was tasting their range – I never thought it as good as the other grand crus – until this 2016 vintage – the 2017 is also great. This wine reinforced my memory, with its silky, concentrated, damn near seamless delivery of great flavour – like a slightly less flamboyant (maybe due to less wood) but still great Corton-Charlemagne. Everyone loved this!
Rebuy – Yes
1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis
I think the last one of the 6-pack that I bought 20 years ago! The cork came out slowly – without breaking – just! It was an unpleasntly smelly cork, so I didn’t have a lot of hope for the wine – happily I was proved oh-so wrong! Yes there was a little herb on the nose, but only as part of a wonderful complexity of aroma; sous-bous, dried leaves and spice, stems, some sweetness – oh that was so good! The palate has the merest anecdote of the tannins of 1995 – but very mild. Incredibly long for a village wine – we all contemplated this wine for a long time before talking about it. Great villages!
Rebuy – Yes
2018 ‘Les Bertrands,’ Fleurie Coup d’Folie
Hmm – for a low/no sulfur wine this has excellent aromatic purity and such a welcoming fruit. The palate has a cushioned depth of rich, layered flavour – unctuous and rewarding wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes
Back home from the harvest, I decided on a little grand cru to celebrate:
2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Les Preuses
I have only a couple of these – unfortunately – this being one of my top dozen, or-so, wines from the vintage. This showed a little less broadness of flavour vs tasting at the domaine in January, but what a wine – even at the €58 (or-so) price at the domaine/shop – frankly a bargain for such greatness. So long, full of melting flavour and holding not just my interest. Bravo wine without a doubt!
Rebuy – Yes
2008 Laurent Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
This the first vintage with the ardea ‘corks,’ and I note that the base of this seal seems completely discoloured by the wine, though a little rubbing removes the colour. The wine’s just a little cloudy. The nose starts with a suggestion of brett followed by a fine vibration of rich, dark fruit aroma – quite pure despite the ripeness. In the mouth there’s clearly more depth and cushion to the flavour extract versus the couple of other 2008s tasted during the week – the acidity is not a bit forward – this being a very drinkable if not particularly complex wine. On day two the nose is in full elastoplast mode – not nice – but if you can avoid that, it still drinks in a tasty way. A shame…
Rebuy – No
My home domaine finished their harvest on Thursday, and many others are also done, but that wasn’t the case in the Hautes Côtes, the Côte de Nuits or even Chablis and Beaujolais where they still had much work to do:
On Friday the vast majority of the Côte de Beaune was finished, though small plots in Beaune, Pommard and Volnay were still unpicked – I estimated that they represented much less than 5% of the total. David Croix, a premier source for Beaune 1ers, also finished picking on Thursday and told me that it was looking like a great vintage, particularly he is impressed with the balance at this early stage. Further afield, Chablis and Beaujolais were well into ramping up their harvests – all of the early-ripening plots were already picked – and much of the heavy-lifting was now done – but they were still some way from finishing. At this stage the majority of the later-starting domaines in the Côte de Nuits were now picking, Domaine Grivot were picking their villages Vosnes this day.
On Saturday Heresztyn-Mazzini, who had started harvesting on Thursday, were picking their Clos St.Denis, and it was another beautiful day for the pickers: Light just before 7am and warming under a generous sun throughout the day – the cold wind of Tuesday-Wednesday already forgotten. The later pickers would have to make the most of this weather though because on Sunday it would change with a bang!
Sunday. Domaine Leflaive was still action – but in their plots of Mâcon – Lafon having largely finished here. Domaines Louis Moreau plus Nathalie, Julie & Gilles Fèvre were picking their last grapes in Chablis, whereas Château Poncié in Fleurie were on their first day of harvesting. Domaine Grivot were picking Echézeaux and Domaines Henri Gouges and Comte Liger-Belair were now finished. The day had started like all the others in this harvest – sunny and clear – by the early afternoon, all was cloud, then about 4pm in the Côte de Nuits – bang! – thunder, lightning and very heavy rain for a time. Everywhere had their share of rain yesterday, however, in the Côte d’Or, it was Vosne that saw the most with over 40mm – like everywhere, the only rain of the week. As a little context; 2018 is thought of as a dry year – certainly the summer – but 2019 has seen only 50-75% of the rainfall of 2018!
Marko de Morey is in action – indeed, lost somewhere in action, in Vosne for the moment – but he told me that he was happy that he’d packed his waterproof gear – saying that after yesterday’s ‘Biblical deluge’ it was going to be very different underfoot this week. At least Monday morning has started with half-clear skies, though the boots are muddy for both Felettig and Amiot-Servelle in Chambolle who were both on their last day of harvesting!