all change today in morey st.denis…

By billn on February 26, 2019 #the market

Important, grand cru, changes are underway today in Morey St.Denis.

It has been known, for a little while, that Jacques Devauges will be leaving Clos de Tart – after (in my opinion) too short a tenure. I believe that Jacques liberated the wine of Clos de Tart – so oft a wine that was constrained by its oak. I wholeheartedly believe that it’s one of Burgundy’s great wines but that the oak really meant that performance was highly variable – you shouldn’t drink it for at least 20 years has been my experience – the 96-98 are great now but not the 99 and younger – at least not consistently.

Jacques officially leaves Clos de Tart today, February 26th. His successor, Alessandro Noli, is well-known as the previous winemaker at Château Grillet – also part of the Latour, Eugénie, Clos de Tart group. The Clos de Tart was a family operation when Jacques joined – but that changed relatively quickly – Jacques, however, with a nice touch, describes his successor Alessandro as “A great man!

Jacques’ next move is, officially, unknown, but there is speculation that he already has a new, grand cru, berth in Morey St.Denis – speculation that I first found to be outlandish – but it seems that there could be more than a kernel of truth. I won’t commit the speculation to paper – the parties at both locations are retaining their discretion – but the rumours seem to be true. So watch this space…

weekend wines – week 8 2019

By billn on February 25, 2019 #degustation


A lovely, diverse, selection this weekend:

2014 Yvon et Laurent Vorcoret, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Still relatively modest colour. A nose that, after the Italian, is clearly more powerful and sweepingly saline. Supple, wide, complex, saline – mineral – ooh – you know what? This is absolutely great. There’s such a depth of long, lingering flavour. For the cash, this is absolutely eye-catching, taste-budding stuff – bravo – just so good and so quickly the bottle is drained!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Cuvée Vézelay
Bottled for the St.Vincent – I have a couple more!
Fresh, citrus, more direct fruit than the Chablis and still plenty of minerality – but the Chablis has more. This is what many a St.Romain wants to grow up like – but without the often, heavy-handed oak of the Côte d’Or! Brilliant stuff…

2017 Julien Sunier, Fleurie
Red wax-topped…
Plenty of colour for such a hailed vintage. A nose of both fine width and depth – filled with round, red fruit – such a success for the vintage. Mouth-filling but still with great line. Hardly an overt note of tannin – super energy too. Über-delicious – and it was gone in a flash!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux
Hmm – what an invitingly deep colour. The nose still actually has a touch of vanilla from the barrel – but there’s depth of dark-red fruit topped by a little floral accent too. 10 minutes and the volatile oak seems to have fled. Wide, beautiful, concentrated red fruit, a mineral, graphite style in the mid-palate that accents the red fruit. Wide and delicious, only modestly sweet, but who needs more. Great villages. Oh, and so very yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2009 cécile tremblay la croix blanche

By billn on February 21, 2019 #degustation

2009 Cécile Tremblay, Bourgogne La Croix Blanche
Still good colour – it’s aging so very slowly. Wide complex, slightly saline accents to the aroma. Round but fresh, open, still a large grain of tannin, adding richness as it warms in the glass. But this is fresh and long with a modest but present intensity. Ooh – delicious despite its slightly rustic side – a short note for a wine so long on drinkability. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend bottles, week 07 2019

By billn on February 18, 2019 #degustation

The first wine was the 2018 VDF Je t’aime, mais j’ai soif, from Claire & Fabien Chasselay in the south of Beaujolais. The first bottled 2018 in these pages – and so delicious it is, I bought some directly after I tasted it. It’s a very simple cherry-berry, not strongly coloured wine but it could be a beer replacement – you can drink it in pint glasses! Delicious. Rebuy – Yes

The 2014 Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Tonnerre ‘Le Clos du Château’ has long been a favourite – nice label, nicer wine! But possibly for drinking up this summer – this has a strange note on the nose and palate for the first 30 minutes, then all was very fine – maybe a cork issue – but no reason not to drink my remaining bottles for their fresh, saline presence but still with a nice ripeness of lemon fruit. Good energy, great wine for the price. But if they are all going in the same direction as this one, then Rebuy – No

week 2 of 3 in the beaujolais

By billn on February 17, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

Above the ‘lucky’ winemakers I visited on week 2 of my oddessy in Beaujolais – okay not so much of an oddessy – due to a couple of hitches I won’t quite reach a total of 50 domaines – but almost. I’m back for just two days of visits next week to sign-off on this month’s Beaujolais visits.

A week of practically perfect weather – frost in the night but finishing the week with 16°C in the afternoons – the butterfies are already on the wing – the forecast is for consistent weather for at least the next 10 days. Vigneron(ne)s are loving it – they can get into the vines and plough or prune, but the overnight frosts, despite the warmth of the afternoons, means that the vines are not yet stirring or currently weeping when pruned – the melting of the frost and then the re-freezing also helps to break-up and aerate the ground – particularly where there’s appreciable clay.

Anyway a few views from the end of this week, plus a quick visit to the foot of the Eiger, yesterday:
 

Burgundy Report

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