Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Jeremy Seysses & Angelique Henriot, 20 October, 2022.
Domaine Dujac
7 Rue de la Bussière
21220 Morey-Saint-Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 01 00
www.dujac.com
More reports with Domaine Dujac
Jeremy on 2022:
“2022 was a great crop – averaging 40 hl/ha – the vines compensating for so little in 2021.”
Jeremy on 2021:
“Frost and relentless rain. Mildew pressure, oïdium pressure – even powdery mildew – clearly some fragility after the frost. We were constantly in the vines trying to keep on top of canopy management as the vines were growing in various directions after the frost. Then I decided to pick late! We started 25 Sept so 4-5 days later than many in the area. I felt that we’d already lost so much fruit that a little more wouldn’t make much difference – hopefully, that wasn’t too fatalist!
“Fortunately the new winery wasn’t ready for the 21 harvest – it would have been so sad to try to vinify such a small quantity in the new tanks – but that worked out well for the 2022s.
“I’d ordered 2 tonnes of sugar but only 1 got delivered. In the end, I used just 200kg – the couple of weeks of good weather before the harvest really aided in achieving maturity – more than killing off the maladies it just made triaging so much easier. Initially, I was pretty downcast – the impression was light in colour and light in tannin – not 77 or 84 ‘tough’ but for the challenges and marginal ripeness I saw 86 or 87 as comparable. I didn’t taste, hardly, partly because the reduction was prominent – we’d used a lot of sulfur – but after malos I was surprised and now see almost 2000+ in terms of quality. Purity is, if not the surprise, not a given in this type of vintage.”
The wines…
Quite show from the team here as we tasted in their new cuverie, surrounded by their 2022s. Multiple wines that are worth a special search – bravo!
2021 Morey St.Denis Blanc
Here’s a forward, strong, nose – really of interest. Supple, that’s a nicely accommodating, melting, citrus palate – moderately mineral, immoderately delicious. I love that finish. Super villages
2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
‘Probably the most impacted by frost – young vines – lost 75%‘
A much more airy width of aroma – slowly taking on a more direct and impressive line. Mouth-filling but calmly so, beautifully textured. Simply an excellent wine in a calm, measured style. The finish is haunting if subtle.
2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
Old vines, usually with lots of ‘shot’ berries (millerandes).
Ooh – that’s a great nose – deeper, more vibrant with an obvious mineral depth. Broader, more visible concentration too, again beautifully textured. Slightly herbed complexity – but what complexity! The energy is less overt than the Folatières but the depth and complexity balance that. Excellent wine!
The wine here is in a reductive phase – but the panorama of aromas is impressive and inviting. Such shape, clarity, and fluidity of presentation – then comes the purity and intensity – never sharp – of the citrus complexity. Long, satisfying – great wine. It reminds me of their great 2007…
Les Reds:
Starting with their contract range of wines – Dujac Fils et Père – normally picked towards the end of the campaign – here 31 Sept-1st Oct. “We lowered the amount of stems we used, a little, but probably still around 75%+ of stems:
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
Quite deeply coloured – despite using only pump-overs.
Aromatically, a little shy – the aromas struggling to express themselves today. In the mouth no such issue – fine cushioning, good concentration and an acidity that transports rather than dominates. Finishing with a little rose perfume and the darker red fruit of this wine.
2021 Morey St.Denis
A little higher toned and more open. More directly aromatic in the flavour profile with fine direction – here the light on its feet flavour has an extra earthy complexity. I think this is very good.
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
Plenty of colour again. Like the Gevrey, here’s a nose that’s a little uncommunicative today – full, concentrated but only sparingly talking. Mouth-filling, melting, fine texture, again with plenty of concentration, graphite minerality flavour that’s now also showing on the nose. Like the Gevrey it just needs more time but all is in place.
2021 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Cras
A nose with less impact but an engaging depth of aroma. Open, more transparent in style – the clarity is a level higher if not with the same implied concentration of the last. Chalky textured in the perfumed finish. Keep this a while – 5+ years as a starting point – it will be excellent.
The domaine wines:
A little less colour than the Maison wine. Elegantly wc perfumed aromatics – nice. Yes! – Here is the fluidity that I’m looking for – such clarity of mobile flavour – slowly mouthwatering. That’s a top wine!
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
Similarly coloured to the last. A nose that opens wider and wider in the glass – expressing itself with plenty of mineral accents – it’s lovely. Deep, faintly reductive starting, an accent of tannin framing the flavours – this, today, a little more serious than the Morey. I’d be keeping this longer before opening – it’s quite a powerful thing – wait 5+ years…
2021 Morey St.Denis 1er Cru
Millerandes and Ruchots mainly, but small parts of others too.
Airy with a subtle reduction today. There are parallels to the villages MSD but here is a more structural wine – but with similar clarity. I really like the shape of this and the middle and finishing perfume are lovely. Maybe for approaching at about the same age as the Chambolle – the perfumed finish is lovely – it’s a really excellent wine.
Not a powerful nose but here is a wine that’s more open and accessible – aromas of deeper fine fruit – cushioned red fruit. Fuller, so mouth-filling, nothing exaggerated or hard – a beautifully shaped wine that’s all graphite minerality and rose-petal finishing. Great 1er Cru!
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Combottes
Airy yet reticent top notes but it’s a good depth of aroma – if less overtly of clarity today. Broad, plenty of tannin to support – but grainless – followed by a seriously first class finish that whilst not powerful is like a long beam of light fading into the distance – just so much potential here!
2021 Charmes-Chambertin
Ooh – now that’s a beautiful nose – not powerful today – but such airy clarity – that’s a great invitation. Stature, structure, there’s no grain to this tannin. Fuller in shape but with time on its side – this could be a simply excellent Charmes – be kind to it – give it 10 years+
A vertical nose of height, depth and super clarity. Broad over the palate, actually slightly spiced, the tannin is present but like the others with no obvious grain. Then comes the perfumed middle and finishing flavour. Top Beaumonts!
“From the northern side of the vineyard, and for the detail-conscious, this contains a tiny amount of Les Gaudichots” notes Jeremy. “It’s a vineyard that we have to think has a phenomenal quality possibility, so we always ask ourselves how will we reach that” he adds. ‘Smallest amount of Malconsorts produced since we got the vines.’
Ooh, now that’s very complex – a hint of reduction in here but so much more too. More direct and incisive, the acidity is the most obvious of any of these wines but cushioned and still not to excess. The tannin is visible only as an afterthought as you take in the finishing flavour. Extra long. The Beaumonts is the suavest today but the Malconsorts has extra energy and complexity. Give this a little more time but they will be great to compare in another 10 years…
2021 Echézeaux
Such a width of aroma – in the depth – only slowly does the aroma start to extend into more interesting higher tones. Gorgeous width and texture – ultra-fine rather than powerful complexity. A simply beautiful wine…
More open higher tones – ooh that’s got my attention! Complex aromatics that dance – this is so fine. Holding a fine position in the mouth. I love the shape, and the clarity of flavour is palpable. Extra width in the finish – even after the Echézeaux. Bravo wine!
Less spherical aromatics yet seemingly broader than the CSD. An extra visible cushion to this shape, a hint more salinity too. Here is some more density to the flavour – not better, just different versus the CSD but also a great wine!
A broader, almost wilder nose – yet the top-end aromatics are rather elegant and fine. A third way – after the CSD and CDR – here is a more direct sweeping shape of wine. Muscular but it’s lithe muscle rather than bodybuilding muscle-mass. Mobile with very good energy, and almost the most perfumed finish of the three. There is a third way – bravo!