Tasted in Chambolle-Musigny with Jean Lupatelli, 28 November 2022. Pictured with Jean Luc Pepin (right)
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
7 Rue Sainte-Barbe
21220 Chambolle-Musigny
Tel: +33 03 80 62 86 25
More reports with Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Jean on 2022:
“We are very happy – I love the apparent quality of the grapes and for here, there’s volume – 30 hl/ha – normally we average 25-27!”
Jean on 2021:
“We will be bottling from the Spring. I was so impressed with the gapes in 21 – in a comparable year – such as 2013 – the quality of the grapes definitely wasn’t as good in Chorey! Of course, the volumes are very low – not as bad as in 2016 when there was 25% of the usual volume, but we still only had about a 1/3rd the usual amount – that said, we actually we had a bit more than in 2020! I had nothing to do during the fermentations – all were quite classic – only the white had a slightly late malo.”
The wines…
I don’t think the Chambolle and Bonnes-Mares were showing at peak – but the others? Hands-down brilliant – unfortunately there’s so little in 2 out of 3 cuvées!
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
Princlally vines in Les Porlottes, 90%, plus small parcels of the 1er crus of Fuées and Baudes
A silky width of red. Supple, fine texture – lovely energy here – faint tannic support but this is a wine of light and energy – that’s really lovely – partly saline in this finish too! ‘It’s steep and always a low yield here in Porlots’ – this year, for the first time, pushed by the low volume they vinified all the 1er cru grapes together – normally they were vinified separately. Fine, mineral and faintly saline too.
2021 Bonnes-Mares
2.8 ha and quite a homogenous soils, charm and finesse comes in one lower part, the structure from the higher part. There is some wc in this!
A nose that’s round, cushioned – the air cleans this up a lot, it started a little rustic but then opened its arms becoming more and more interesting and more pure. Always a dynamic wine – here too – and impressive depth and energy to that depth of flavour. Really perfumed in the middle and finishing flavours – vibrant here. With a bit more elevage perhaps a bit more intensity? It has anyway a wonderful energy and complexity.
Have for a while only made three barrels from their 0.6 ha – but after the 2021 harvest, they pulled out nearly 40% of the vines as there was a lot of virus and very little yield – it will be 7-8 years before they replant so more than 10 before the volume starts to recover for this sought-after wine!
Absolutely beautiful – mineral, delicate flowers, purity of fruit – yes! Broader than the nose, supple – very mineral but beautiful – and chalky finishing too. Grand vin!
There’s less and less of this; just opposite their Amoureuses – just 2 barrels from 0.2 ha – the next youngest vines are from 2007 – so if they don’t replant any more Musigny before 2032 this cuvée will disappear
The previous nose was practically vertical compared to this panorama of perfume. More incisive, cool, a faint tannin. Broadening over the palate, mouth-watering with beautiful flavour. becoming a rare bird – like their Amoureuses!
Hmm – what a hit of perfume – then it tightens before opening once more – A higher-toned floral here. Extra dynamism – here is a wine that’s just bubbling with fine energy – clarity, super texture – even the faint grain of tannin is not destabilizing the silk of this wine. Absolute perfume in the finish, supported by a width of minerality too. Class! Bravo!
2021 Musigny Blanc
The largest parcel is in Petits-Musigny, planted in 1990 – the historic part, high on the hill. ‘We did better than expected, the frost had some effect but in the end, we had 5 barrels.
That’s a beautiful aroma – floral but one that I’ve rarely met. Wide, silky, actually some concentration here – mineral wine. Long, faintly creamy and with beautiful clarity – sneakily long!