Tasted with Camille Thiriet in the doorway of her (projected!) new office in Corgoloin, 05 October 2022.
Maison Camille Thiriet
7 Chemin des Carrières
21700 Comblanchien
Tel: +33 6 08 91 86 83
maisoncamillethiriet.com
More reports with Camille Thiriet
I wasn’t alone waiting at Camille’s old cuverie when we got the message – ‘oh, we are at a different address.’ So jump in the car to Corgoloin!
Camille on 2021:
“2021 was of course a complicated year and we lost a lot of grapes in the old contracts following the sale of a domaine where we had bought grapes. All the 21s are bottled – done in July. All the whites are DIAM bottled – with wax they are close to hermetic and I like the freshness that they keep – the reds were once DIAM too but I’ve returned to cork for those. My aim is to use the minimum of sulfur during elevage – but it’s the vintage that decides. We are exporting to 30 countries already so I won’t skimp on protecting the wines. We have some CO2 too – 850 mg/l”
The wines…
I’m struck by the seriousness of Camille’s approach and the quality of the wines that she’s been making – she’s taking an almost ambassadorial role for the wines of Côte de Nuits Villages – at least from a customer-facing and quality perspective. She’s focusing on named parcels – ‘Cote de Nuits Villages’ needs producers like this – and Galyrand for instance – to take some of the anonymity away from the label – we need that in Brochon too – which has the same label. All the wines here show high-class textures, mouth-watering flavours and clarity of flavour. Great stuff – all of it!
‘This vineyard is like my garden,’ says Camille. I own a plot in Pommard in the direction of Nantoux near La Vache; 80-year-old vines, practically pink berried aligoté dorée, destemmed by hand while waiting for the second plot in Comblanchien to be picked – only 15 hl/ha for dorée. When the second plot is ready they are blended and crushed together.
Compact but fine and pure aroma. Mouth-filling, lovely texture, wide, mobile fluid, delicious wine – bravo – just so delicious!
2021 Bourgogne Blanc
A 1.8 ha parcel next to Comblanchien with old aligoté, pinot and chardonnay.
Ooh – that’s much more open and vibrant – 20% new oak here vs 10 for the aligoté. Again a lovely silky texture to this wine and it’s obviously concentrated too. Mineral dimensions of flavour in the finish too. Simply excellent wine.
A little red:
2021 Côte de Nuits Villages La Montagne
260m on the hill. ‘I got to use the team of Dujac to pick here as they were waiting a few days to start. We had super looking grapes from here – I’d planned to destem as I didn’t know the parcel but the grapes were so fine that I decided to remove the de-stemmer.’
Medium-plus colour. This nose has width and a fine pinot perfume. Easy, mobile, and very fine texture again. Growing with fine mouth-watering flavour, some concentration and generosity. Precise and gorgeously flavoured. Class!
Direction Magny-Villairs – 315 m – above the ‘Mountain’ – it’s cool but complex – here 100% wc
Energy and a more fresh spice to this one – very inviting. More direct, still silky, cool fruit, darker coloured fruit. A wine to sweep you off your feet. Fabulous.
And to finish – a couple of 2020s:
Near wall of Clos de la Marechale. This is all whole-bunch.
A more cushioned and encompassing, coating, impression to this dark fruit, fruit with beautiful flashes of clarity. Although there’s extra width and concentration here, the melting, fluid, style of this cool fruit resembles a lot the style of the 21 Clos Magny – clearly a riper touch but still with freshness and class. Bravo!
2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Compact in the high tones but this nose is wide and of beeswax. Honied style to the fruit but still with a shape and structure and a mouth-watering style – almost some ripe lime fruit here. Delicious, excellent wine, but I enjoy the 21 more today…