Tasted in Gilly les Citeaux with Mark Haisma, 18 November 2022.

Mark Haisma
Lot 4, Parc d’Activités “La Petite Champagne”
21640 Gilly les Citeaux
www.markhaisma.co.uk
More reports with Mark Haisma

Having seen Mark’s Bogan labels I asked if he might pose for his portrait with them – then all his creativity started coming out!

Mark on 2021:
“In 2021, of course, we had issues with the whites that we just had to get on with – there are no Chassagnes or no Saint Aubins or Meursaults in this vintage. But I found some nice stuff in Paris l’Hôpital… For the reds, I was careful not to push the whole clusters too much. Previous years were about density, 21 is about acid-balance which is classic burgundy. ”

Never a truer word spoken!

The wines…

At this stage in their elevage, the wines were not hitting their peaks – so you can take my notes as very conservative – but the wines were still damn delicious!

Nothing bottled as usual, he will be waiting for the start of 2021:

2021 Bogan in Burgundy Blanc
Fresh width of aroma with some golden fruit. Sleek, mineral, tasty wine – vibrant and yummy – a blend of chardonnay and aligoté…

2021 St.Romain Jarrons
‘I fell out with another grower so now only Jarrons 😊’
A little narrower, less golden but again an attractive invitation. A bit more depth to this with a lovely citrus intensity. That’s a good one.

2021 Bourgogne Aligote
Now mainly old vines.
A narrower but a good depth of vibrant aroma. Sleek again like the first wine – waves of fine finishing flavour. That’s lovely!

2021 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er En Caradeux
The hill that faces Charlemagne
A deeper, almost cushioned width of aroma. Bigger, some gas pushing the energy, Super finishing intensity and subtly oaked – very delicious again.

Les Reds:

2021 Bogan Goes Walkabout
Vin de France – shiraz, pinot, gamay – next year without the pinot – shiraz from Mâcon though!
Broad and interesting aromatics, there’s some slightly spicy energy. Silky – wide, ooh that’s a delicious thing – so juicy and moreish!

2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
All Côte de Nuits fruit – it did previously have a little Pommard in it too, in earlier vintages. All ‘domaine’ now.
Brght, energetic, so perfumed – it smells of roses – but there’s no wc here. Direct, gorgeously energetic – forget density, just focus on how delicious this is – it’s perfumed wine too.

2021 Volnay La Cave
Perfume of roses again. Broader, fuller, airy flavours but mineral too. Again no whole cluster but you would think so. Beautiful wine.

2021 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins
A rare red from – 30% whole bunch here.
The pines of the label are visible in the aromas – In the mouth too – lots of greenery but not pyrazine – broad and interesting wine.

2021 Fixin
Broader, redder fruit, some perfume again. Faintly tannic but not grainy and hardly any dryness – pretty wine – indeed lovely wine.

2021 Chambolle-Musigny
Not allowed to put the lieu-dit Echézeaux on the label, but…
Broad and wonderfully aromatic – perfume! Mouth-filling, tons of clarity. The finishing energy is fine – a little calm but still a beauty!

Domaine Wines:
“We have been farming for 2 years but using the fruit since 2009 – it was easy buying the fruit – I really felt the pressure once I started farming the vines!”

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin​
Multiple vineyards, still keeping the negoce red (lettering) label just to avoid changes – but now it’s all domaine.
Broad and fine – perfumed – and even some stems here. More mouth-filling – ooh great finishing too. That’s excellent.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud
Lovely aromatic again – round a bit of rose perfume once more. Supple but still with a porcelain structure. Growing wider in the finish – clean, vibrant and perfumed. Yum!

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Fontenay
Between Dugat-Py and Bruno Clair – 0.3 ha.
Big and broad, higher toned and at the same time a bit of reduction. I like the width and shape of this – I think it needs a bit more elevage but it will be lovely – it has to be, it’s Fonteneys 😉

Back to contracts:

2021 Pommard 1er Clos des Arvelets
Normally 8 barrels – 2 in 21!
A fine width of aroma but certainly much more compact than the 20… Cherry-red fruit, very pretty shape and style.

2021 Volnay 1er Frémiets
At the top of the vines. Last vintage as the producer has sold vines.
More perfume here it looks like wc but there is none. Broad but sleek, great flavour-perfume again. Bright and pretty – simply delicious wine.

2021 Clos de Vougeot
The return – but from a different owner – on the mid-section of the northern Wall – so Chambolle side.
Another engaging, inviting, lovely nose. Beautiful, classy, sleek, shape. A beauty!

2021 Cornas
Extra weight and depth – more colour too. But broad and cushioned and layered – that’s my most favourite Cornas from here. It’s delicious.