Tasted with David Duband in Chevannes 15 November 2022.

SARL David Duband
12 Rue du Lavoir
21220 Chevannes
Tel: +33 3 80 61 41 16
www.domaine-duband.com
More reports with David Duband

David on 2022:
“Very happy – the harvests were correct – 30-35 hl/ha for the GCs and 40-45 for the villages and Bourgognes.”

David on 2021:
“It’s complicated: We lost 60% – and most of the production in Mercurey. The quality is a very different style – no global warming in these wines – yet, they are wines without faults, there’s no excess of tannin, or acidity, or pyrazine – they are lighter wines than we have become used to but I think the customers will love them – what people don’t like is wines with no acidity. I used a lot of candles in the smallest parcels so the grand crus were not bad volumes and I can do the ‘integral fermentation’ in a single barrel so it worked out not too badly – and I have all my usual cuvées.”

The wines…

David has delivered modest colours but far from modest complexity. These wines are completely delicious and show the sort of perfect balance that will have you enjoying these wines for 20 years – or more.

DIAM seals for all, not yet bottled:

2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Louis Auguste
Powdery, modestly rose-perfumed from the stems. Broad, intense, modestly structural though with only a faint tannic grain – nice red fruit. This will be a tasty wine.

2021 Morey St.Denis
A warmer width of spice aroma – very appealing. Round, a little cushion, the sweetness of fruit mixes with a little structure – this is very good and absolutely delicious. Long, with faintly creamy oak in the finishing flavours…

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
90% from between Brochon and Gevrey – 5-6 parcels.
Forward, cool fruit, plenty of wc complexity – nice. Hmm – that’s broad and modestly structural – but the tannin aside we have nicely fluid fresh flavours with some good sucrosity too. I like this very much and there are none of the finishing oak flavours.

2021 Nuits St.Georges
Parcels in Charmottes & St.Julien in the north of Nuits, Plateau and Brulées more to the south.
A more direct, silkier, almost mineral aromatic. Broader with a little more incisive intensity – a direct wine but one with plenty of wc complexity. This is for keeping – drink the Morey and Gevrey while you wait. Wait 4-5 years but I like the shape and energy of this wine and the finish is very good.

2021 Morey St.Denis 1er Clos Sorbet
More airy, with very pretty red fruit – and some floral perfume – a lovely invitation. Broad in the mouth with a cool fruit width and a faint framing of the flavours with grainless tannin. The finishing flavour is mouth-wateringly complex and delicious – maybe wait a couple of years but this is excellent wine!

2021 Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Thorey
From nearly 70 year-old vines on the Vosne-side of the town.
That’s the best nose so far, complex and fine – a very fine invitation. Cool, direct layered perfumed flavour. The structure is less visible, more mineral in style but with a sneaky intensity – wait another couple of years – like for all here this year – but this will be a beauty!

2021 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Sentiers
From 50+ year-old vines sitting just under Bonnes Mares.
A smoky depth – attractive, not gothic – growing more floral in the glass. Supple, layers of flavour here with a modest textural cushion too. The finish is deliciously creamy too – not really speaking of the barrels more an old-vine creaminess. Lovely – again an excellent wine.

2021 Clos de la Roche
From 70-year-old vines in the centre of the appellation.
Fresh, wide, airy wc aromatics with a little creamy nuttiness. Open, complex fresh – hardly 1er cru weight versus vintages like 2018-2020 but detailed, complex and rewarding – super finishing too. Keep 4-5 years and drink over 20…

2021 Latricières-Chambertin
Really the perfume of a rose garden – I love. Structural, mineral – chiselled – yet never hard. Growing wide over the palate – mineral again in the finish – this will make a great mature wine – as much as I’m enjoying it today, I’d be drinking this – to start with – only in 12-15 years.