Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Sylvie Esmonin, 14 November 2022.

Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
1 Rue Neuve
21220, Gevrey-Chambertin
Tel: +33 3 80 34 36 44
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Sylvie on 2021:
“Of course, the losses came in the April frosts – but I’m organic so had losses from the mildew too. It was a small harvest – sometimes very small – but August and September were nice weather and we harvested in nice conditions – much between 25-28 September, some a little before but with a couple of days off to wait. It was a year that brought work and some fatigue for this small quantity. But I have to say that the wines grew well during elvage – the smallest quantity of my career for sure, possibly my father’s time too as the vines were younger and more productive then than the old vines of today… I think it’s a vintage of red fruit that shows the terroir differences very well.”

The wines…

I tasted a little early in the elevage of these 2021s – evidenced by lots of reduction – The Clos St.Jacques shone like a star though!

Bottling is usually in Spring – Sylvie expects no change there:

2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This from Pressoniers in Gevrey. 0.90 ha – there was a new parcel in 2021 with an additional 0.25 ha – still in Gevrey but closer to the border with Morey St.Denis, which was harvested in the last days of the 2021 campaign.
Lots of reduction to start but here’s a nose that opens, indeed blossoms in the glass with slightly darker red fruit and good flowers. Direct, silky, slowly with a modest fine grain of tannin. Fine and long, narrow and direct. This will be very good.

2021 Cote de Nuits Villages
Domaine parcel in Brochon – 0.72, Vignes Noir and Croix Violette.
Again with plenty of reduction. Broader over the palate – a little more tannin but again without any dryness – here is a lovely energy. Long and wider finishing too.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
Also old vines the second (VV) villages cuvée is actually TVV says Sylvie. Stony here, ‘Which brings a wine with a little more finesse.’
A much more subtle reduction, here showing darker red fruit and a hint of florals. Mouth-filling with extra freshness and a faint astringence – but super flavour energy – practically juicy – the acidity is to the fore but not to excess. That’s a deliciously energetic wine.

2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Two parcels of vines of approximately 100-years-old.
The first wine that faintly shows some stems but still perfumed here – again with a sleek and direct freshness. Muscled wine – a racehorse – ooh that impresses in the finish too – but this is a 10-year wine, at least (I’m still waiting for my 2005s). I think it will be an excellent 10-year wine though!