Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Cyprien Arlaud, 21 October 2022.
Domaine Arlaud Père et Fils
41 Rue Epernay
21220 Morey St.Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 32 65
www.domainearlaud.com
More reports with Domaine Arlaud
Cyprien on 2021:
“2021 certainly brought more challenges than 2022! The most important was finishing our pruning late – in March. We didn’t light candles the night of the frost – and we were luckier here than in the Côte de Beaune. We did the maximum in the vines despite the wet weather of the vintage and I can say we’re satisfied. I didn’t change the amount of whole bunches in this vintage – I only use the stems if I think they are good enough and had no problems in that direction – A year that was completely classic in terms of fermentation and the malos were not long, some were rather fast. It’s a vintage that I’d never say was better than 2019 but I appreciate the style that’s fresher. I have a feeling of 2007 as the wines are immediate and have emotion.”
The wines…
From fine to great – another superb result for this domaine.
We did a freestyle journey through the important wines here (for Cyprien) as the range with the maison wines is large. The elevage will be a little shorter this year with bottling mainly done before the end of the year:
2021 Bourgogne Roncevie
Usually 35k bottles from the more than 5 ha.
Plenty of colour. A little shy today but there’s still some visible purity of darker red fruit aroma. Very silky, growing in width over the palate. A little vibration of energy to this flavour too – long and satisfying – plenty of finishing sweetness too. That’s completely delicious wine!
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
Normally from 5 parcels, all close to Morey.
Today a little reductive. But this has fine form over the palate – the acidity showing a little more bright and with intensity to the finishing flavours. Here there’s quite some complexity of not just flowers and fruit but herbs and minerals too. Complex and interesting.
2021 ‘Maison’ Nuits St.Georges
‘We do all the work in these vines – 3 parcels’
Fuller more forward red fruit aromas. I like the structure and the flavour is very mouth-watering. The finish is, indeed, deliciously mouth-watering – keep a couple of years but this will be super!
2021 ‘Maison’ Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas
AB – made this since 2013
Another shy nose but with good silky depth. Broad, and bubbling with delicious complexity. So juicily finishing with great red fruit and spice complexity – that’s a simply excellent villages – it just needs the aromatics to open out more for ‘great.’
2021 Morey St.Denis 1er Millandes
Compact top notes but clean and showing some nice width lower down. Structurally a little more architectural, the intensity is higher too. This finish is more direct and with super energy – keep this a little longer while enjoying your Réas!
2021 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Ruchots
Here 20 years without interruption using a horse to work the vines…
Hmm, that’s a fine extra higher-toned nose – I like! Silken, mineral, direct – ooh – that’s lovely – it could maybe do with a hint more cushion – but this is simply excellent wine – I love the complexity of flavour coupled to its intensity. Keep a while but this is simply excellent
So good – almost so decadently perfumed! Very mineral and as all these with such impressive clarity to the flavour. Complex, gorgeous wine – bravo again!
2021 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Sentiers
Since 99 this made separately but before that it was in the villages.
More airy, even faintly smoky nose. Yes, smoky from the barrel in the flavours too – but what complexity and energy of flavour – redder fruit at the base and a broad, sustained finish. This will also be excellent – give it a couple of years for the smokiness to fade.
Also AB, since 2019, have been working this parcel since 2013.
A nose that grows in stature with air – still shy but becoming ever-more interesting. Yes! Extra complex, some salinity – growing in intensity but never too much. Holding strong. That’s a potentially great 1er – lovely!
One part here is 99-years-old.
Not fully open but that still a super depth of aroma. This seems just a little more composed than the PM but no less complex or energetic – the structure a little more architectural. Holding a strong and sustained finish – a really top finish – keep 5 years!
2021 Charmes-Chambertin
Compact top notes again but broad and glossy in the deeper tones. Structural but with enough padding so that there’s no pain. Really complex, dark flavours, some spice in here too. A mineral vibration and intensity in the finish. Some Charmes are easy, early, drinkers – I’d be keeping this one – wait 10 years!
Deep, vibrant, showing the perfume of the fermentation with stems – that’s a great invitation. Calm, but mineral and mouth-watering. Growing broader over the palate – a wine that flows beautifully over the tongue. Bravo – That’s just so good! Here is purity, minerality and complexity – not power – but that’s not on the first page of attributes that I’m looking for in a wine.
Also a fine purity of aroma here – showing more high tones and perfume with a vibration of pure red fruit in the middle. Supple, calm, fluid in style – actually, for CSD I find this very mineral, but gorgeously melting with flavour. The calmer brother of the Clos de la Roche today but gorgeously detailed in the finish – another great wine
From the Chambolle side, including vines in both terres-blanches and terres-rouges. ‘A climat that struggles more than most when the weather is hot and dry. Here we have the best results from ploughing with a horse – we’ve been doing it here for more than 15 years – it allows us to capture late August rains much better than before.’
Hmm, tight but still medium width but very inviting complexity here. Here is great shape, and tons of melting favour – that’s delicious, almost a cascade of finishing flavour that holds very long – this is such a great finish. A wine that’s biding its time but it will surely be a great one – I wouldn’t touch one for at least 10 years – despite how delicious this finish is!