Tasted in Premeaux with Sylvie Poillot, 10 December, 2019.
Domaine de la Vougeraie
Rue de l’Église
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 48 25
Sylvie on 2019:
“It’s really the quantity that I think most of about at the moment – 40% less. The worst area for us was Vosne where we had 7 hl/ha – all clean and nice grapes – but no juice. For the harvest in general – three teams of harvesters, all was done on 13 days. ”
Sylvie on 2018:
“Our harvest started 23rd August – the same date as in 2003. But in 2018 we started with young vines in Volnay and the Clos de Thorey, not in the chardonnay. There was an obvious separation of ripeness between the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits – we moved from one to the other. Puligny had an enormous amount of grapes but I’d say that the rest were correct. ”
At this stage in their development, the classier wines chez Vougeraie seem to be the reds – an impressive mix of the excellent and the great! More elevage needed for many of the whites, so there is still extra potential here.
2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Terre de Famille
Bottled July. The grapes from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, two more parcels in Vougeot, one in Brochon plus some young vines in Evocelles.
Big, smoky and attractive. Nice in the mouth – open, tasty and nothing overdone. Excellent!
2018 Côte de Beaune Les Pierres Blanches
The only vines not in the domaine, this is a fermage arrangement with the local community. Bottled last week.
A narrower nose but still some depth and a suggestion of oak. Fuller, more density of fine, sweet red fruit. Long – ooh thats a nicely constructed – slightly structural and delicious finishing.
One third of old vines
Hmm, open, fine, an inviting nose with a very silky impression. Supple again, almost fleshy, you can’t really see the 50% stems. Vibrant finishing – great ‘villages’
5 parcels with Baudes and Gruenchers 1ers included, all harvested the same day.
Hmm, thats a rare bird! – an 18 Chambolle that smells like Chambolle – with plenty of wc perfume too though. Wide, energetic, layered, delicious flavour. Yes, great 2018 Chambolle villages!
2018 Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos de Thorey
The Monopoly of the clos here – the middle of Aux Thorey – but really not allowed to write monopole, despite using the label for many years at Rodet… This is half old vines.
Hmm – now it’s not a big nose, but it’s a lovely nose with a pretty floral anecdote too. Wide, beautifully flavoured, modestly structured – I’d not guess Nuits. Delicious wine!
80% whole clusters.
Floral but deeper flowers – that’s an attractive invitation. Wide, silky, concentrated, but very open, I’d say airy if there wasn’t such intensity. Great 1er Cru of freshness and delicious energy.
2018 Corton Clos du Roi
78-year-old vines with small grapes. Bottled last week.
Narrower top notes but this is a nose with impressive depth, some wc in the mix. Very wide and fresh – super clarity, lots of mouth-watering, mineral, wc-inflected, flavour. Juicy finishing and so long. For keeping but already many delicious facets!
2 parcels, one of 1 hectare high in the clos near the château, the smaller 0.5 ha parcel at the bottom, they are vinified separately. 5 days difference between maturity of the two parcels in 2018.
Vibrant fruit and wc perfume. Fresh, open, gorgeous construction, clarity. Great CV! Easy! Bravo.
2018 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères
The oldest vines of the domaine here with some of 105 years – and these are used for the domaines massale selection.
A larger scale to the nose, very pretty. A big freshness but with the material behind to back it up. Mouth-watering beautifully in the finish with just a little more visibility to the drying tannin. Excellent.
From Chambolle-side, right on the border with Morey… “You can’t miss it, it’s that hole in the ground with the sign, plus another higher parcel.”
Sweetly floral, of-course with whole clusters. Fine drive, but width and energy too. Mouth-wateringly complex in the middle to finish. Long finishing. Ooh that tastes so good – far from a brute! Excellent as a minimum!
‘Always triaged with Mozart playing in the background.’
Not a big nose but an ultra-fine nose of complexity – beautiful. Driving, fresh, layered, delivering flavour in waves. Great…
No whites are bottled yet.
Hautes Côtes de Nuits plus some young vine Clos Blanc
Faintly but attractively toasty. Hmm, this has super shape, fine acidic balance and a slowly growing intensity of flavour. Beautifully constructed. Great finishing flavour – you have to wait or carafe…
2018 Beaune Blanc
A small amount of 1er too, the rest is from Montée Rouge. A lot of 550-litre barrels, max 20% new.
A fine blend of depth and freshness – this is a very attractive nose. Round, supple, almost a little easy over the palate yet delicious. Another impressive finish, deliciously mineral and long.
2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gains
Fourth vintage – 0.33 hectares that came from Girardin.
More citrus freshness here. Incisive, intense, complex – yes of tension. The oak is the smallest accent. Excellent, delicious wine!
Always 3 harvests here – top, middle and then the bottom comes last.
A deep nose, golden and vibrant – very different. Fresh, with depth of fine, mineral flavour – really great clarity though with a very different style of fruit – almost a little quince. Ooh that should be great.
2018 Le Charlemagne
2 vines – one week difference in harvesting – one Le Charlemagne, the other En Charlemagne. Now labelled since 2013 as ‘Charlemagne,’ the en and le assembled just before bottling.
A modest impact but good width. Fresh, mineral, direct then slowly melting over the palate, juicily, mouth-watering in the finish. A great finish, but behind I have the impression that I still taste some Clos Blanc! This is still super.
This has more weight and complexity. Mouth-filling, richer but completely balanced and mouth-watering. Vibrant finishing too, ooh gorgeous finishing flavour – excellent wine – even for Bâtard!
Higher toned, less directly focused than the Bâtard but obviously super. Mineral, wide, cool, melting, melting, becoming more intense, this is a wine that needs time in the glass to awake – but awake it does. Extra flavour, a reprise in the finish too – ooh thats good. There is the potential for great if the nose can show a little more weight and focus.