Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Florence Heresztyn, 26 November 2018.
27 Rue Richebourg
Tel. +33 (0)3 80 34 13 99
Florence on 2019:
“We lost 45% of our volume – a combination of the flowering and the dryness of the vintage – but there were no problems in the cuverie, no long fermentations. It was first certified organic vintage, so we’ll have AB on our labels.”
Florence on 2018:
“2018 was also a smaller vintage for us, with 20% less. The reason for the lower volume was a mix of the warm and wet in the early season where we lost some potential crop due to mildew and again there was the dryness of the summer. Again, and unlike some other domaines we had no problems with slow fermentations. I used plenty of whole clusters in 2018, though a little less than in 2019.”
Florence has been making some captivating wines and for a few years now too, so I wish I could say that all of her 2018s beg me to take another sip, but many don’t. It’s the vintage, and that’s despite nothing higher than 13.7° – modest by the standards of 2018.
2018 Bourgogne Chardonnay
A parcel in Gevrey – Le Nouroy. Has some new oak, was only half a harvest in 2018 due to the mildew.
A big nose with plenty of width – almost appealing. Hmm, that’s really very nice – a good line of acidity and a lime-style fruit that has a little rigour to it. A twist of oak flavour in the finish but good flavour here and it’s long.
2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
A single parcel in Champs Francs at the bottom of Gevrey – a part is actually classified as villages here. The next lieu-dit to the last wine. There’s no new oak or wc in this one.
A round, less large nose. Big in the mouth, a framing with decent acidity and a fuller flavoured core. Slow-moving waves of finishing flavour. Good wine of fine balance.
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village
The parcel next to the domaine buildings – an old parcel of 6-65 yo vines, 50% wc and 30% new oak from Fontainbleu. Was racked in November but won’t be bottled until at least march depending on the biodynamic calendar.
A more higher-toned and open nose – almost a floral suggestion – nice. Again plenty of acidity, a width of flavour that grows in intensity. Wide, baby wine – it needs a little time – I like the structure. Give it at least year from this point.
A blend of Bas Goix and Aux Echanges – 30% new oak and 60% wc this time.
A riper, more concentrated nose, suggesting alcohol. In the mouth lots of energy again and quite some intensity. The finish is a good one, but today this is a long way from Chambolle elegance in 2018.
2018 Gevery-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
Three different parcels averaging 65 yo and with half of the whole clusters retained.
A deep nose, also with some ripeness. More supple and nicer textured than the Chambolle, the intensity is impressive, as is the weight of flavour – though again with an emphasis on the oak/alcohol today…
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes Les Jouises
From the south of Gevrey – ‘only’ 65 years old vines.
A more compact nose – suggesting some width of aroma but not quite delivering. Time brings a nice delicacy of high tones – now that’s nice! Fresher – more open, ripe for sure, but the shape and texture are lovely and mouth-filling. This is driving and super.
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes En Songes
70% wc for these more than 80 year-old vines.
There is a fresh quality to the nose though there’s also some extra ripe impression to the fruit that supports it – but like the last, more time in the glass allows something more elegant and attractive to escape – it’s very inviting here. Width and depth. Driving with waves of fresh flavour. The texture not quite as good as the last but here everything is turned up louder. Saline and a little oak in the finish. Today, I prefer the balance of the last but there’s more here.
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Perrières
‘The most fine 1er, the wine with the most finesse, sited close to Mazy.’ 50% wc with 30-35% new oak for these 1ers.
Again a high-toned ripeness is the first impression – one that’s not so inviting. I like the mouth-filling shape, one that’s framed by a good velvet tannin. The finish fades in width relatively quickly but then has good persistence.
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er 1er Les Goulots
The soil was for a long time not worked here in this high part because of worry of erosion and not enough space for a horse to turn, but using a small caterpillar machine and it’s now being done for the first time in a long time. Only 4 owners, Magnien, Gallois, Fourrier and here. Benjamin Leroux also produces.
Also a high-toned ripeness. Hmm, big in the mouth, but this has a beautiful texture – much finer-grained than the last wine. The flavour has this extra-ripeness that I’m not enjoying in 2018 – call it a lack of pinot delicacy.
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er 1er Champonnets
This with all wc
Still a ton of colour in the glass. The most directly floral and interesting nose yet – it slowly gets even better with aeration. Fresh – much fresher than most. The acidity has more delicacy here the flavour is forward but also has interest too. Lots of finishing weight and persistence. This is very good.
2018 Morey Saint Denis 1er La Millandes
About 70 year-old vines – Also 100% wc.
Also very deeply coloured. The nose has a little more calm than many, it’s still high-toned and ripe but there’s half an invitation here. Big in the mouth, round, complex, textured with velvet tannin. Saline finishing and there’s some extra, and tasty, flavour in the finish.
2018 Clos St.Denis
They can get 4 barrels. Vines about 40 yo but with cordon de royat pruning. 50% new wood to go with the 100% whole clusters.
Ripe, high-toned, alcoholic fruit. Extra wide, extra-fine textured – the shape is super in the mouth – there is, of-course, concentration too. Where is the delicacy in the complexity though? – Actually there is some herbal complexity in the finish – almost a mint-leaf with not much mint. Very long but…