Tasted in Santenay with Antoine Olivier (and ‘M’), 19 November 2019.
Domaine Antoine Olivier
5 rue Gaudin
21590 Santenay, France
Tel: +33 (0)3 80 20 61 35
Antoine on 2019:
“2019 – it seems like every two years I have the same speech; in 2019 we were down about 50% in volume. It wasn’t a big frost but it was a black one – it all happened at the beginning of April. Then all of April and May was cold, then we had poor flowering for the chardonnay. Did I mention the driest spring and summer for years? Oh, I lost grapes to the deer and wild boar too. Fortunately 2017, 18 and 19 together are only about 10-15% down. My father was a wine-maker for 40 years and only had 3 bad volume years in that time, so i have concerns for my daughters going forward. As for the wines, big alcohols, but lovely acidity, though perhaps maturity often due to concentration by the wind.”
Antoine on 2018:
“My biggest harvest ever! It was our first complete white harvest since 2008 – it’s a great vintage for business.”
Well-done – Antoine showcasing the strength of the 2018 vintage in Santenay – equally good wines, red and white.
2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
All from Santenay. Bottled just before harvest.
Smooth, ripe fruit. Supple, intense, a littl alcohol impression in the middle. Tasty finishing.
2018 Santenay Temps des (Ce)Rises
Half domaine grapes and others from friends – six plots.
Lots of colour. Bright red, ripe fruit. Hmm, structured, great but wait a little time for this in this vintage. Nice and juicy in the finish.
80% own grapes but 100% wc
More floral, really super perfume. More juicy great structure. Love this wine – bravo!
Deep, redolent of the 70% whole bunches. Wide, energetic, delicious, super purity, fading but long. Great Santenay again.
Hmm, round, great fruit. Full, incisive, structural but no padding. Saline complex a big wave of finishing flavour. Brilliant Savigny villages.
2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets
Wide, vibrant but a little low sulfur style wide and fruity. A little more structure. A bright and pretty red fruit at the core, long. Super
2018 Pommard Noizons
Hmm – comfy, wide, super nose, some wc perfume. Sweeping, great texture, layered in the middle. Lip-smacking flavour, really super.
All DIAM for whites from this vintage, “Probably reds too soon.” All these whites racked before the harvest in September, aging without sulfur until racking:
From Rully, all barrel fermented
Hmm, this is a super nose, no edges just a beautiful invitation. Fresh, driving, mineral, juicy wine. Bravo.
2018 Bourgogne Blanc Les Dindes
Quite a ripe yet fresh nose. Full, perfumed, long, faint reduction. I’d buy the aligoté in preference, but this is still very tasty.
Hmm, that’s a nice, clean, freshness. Bright, wide, beautiful. Love this, bravo! Perfumed citrus finishing.
2018 Santenay Clos de Champs Carafe
Ooh, vibrant, fabulous aromatics. Bright, incisive, pure wine, very citrus, growing in intensity. A modest finishing oak that will have departed in 6 months or so.
2018 Santenay Sous la Roche
South facing with lots of stones and gravels.
A clean, fine and inviting nose. Full of energy, soo good, simply excellent wine, maybe more …
Again, wide, fresh, clean agrumes. A little more structural more depth of flavour, faintly spiced.. gorgeously finishing. Really only at the end, end a touch of oak. Bravo.
Antione also has some new Montagny 1er Cru – but it was too reductive for a proper note…