Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Laurent & Sébastien Lignier, 18 November 2019.
Domaine Hubert Lignier
45, Grande Rue
21220 Morey St.Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 51 87 40
Laurent on 2018:
“Our harvest started on the 4th September, finishing on the 12th – we actually finished with the Bourgognes.”
A very good range of wines from Laurent, though some of the Bourgogne is a little alcoholic. The Clos de la Roche, unsurprisingly, is a star!
2018 Bourgogne Plant Gilbert
These vines in the commune of Chambole. Just bottled. 13.7°
A little licorice but with a roundness of fruit too. Supple, concentrated, a little mineral, wide – the licorice of the nose in the finish. Easy, delicious wine.
2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Grand Chaillots
14.7° with this one – with some hail here in Nuits
Round and with a certain diffuse aromatic volume. Big – mouth-filling, some extra structure. I much, much prefer the previous wine.
2018 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
From Drazey and one other from bought vines – some whole clusters for all these – here 30%
Nicer freshness – wide and floral-red fruit. Nice volume in the mouth too – a little salinity – good energy and quite flavoursome. A good finish.
2018 Chambolle-Musigny Bussières
Domaine, 50-60-year-old vines
Fresh, direct, lovely energy, I love the complexity in the finish here too – this is an excellent wine.
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
A rounder nose, touched with a little whole cluster perfume. Nice flavour actually, but less class and a little rowdy compared to the Bussières. Tasty all the same.
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Regnard
A cuvée here since 2009. Between Gevrey and Morey.
Soft darker fruit on the nose. Nice freshness – I like the width here, modest texture of tannin – certainly no grain. A nice vibrancy of finishing flavour too…
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Seuvrees
Domaine wine of almost 1 ha
More compact up and down, but wide and very inviting, an almost smoky nose. Wide, less sweet – though sweet! Good waves of flavour here, modestly astringent structure – good structure. Yum!
2018 Morey St.Denis Très Girard
Hmm, that’s a nice depth of almost textured aroma. Hmm (again), that has a nice width and energy – cooler fruit, quite a dynamic wine. This is super.
2018 Morey St.Denis Trilogy
Chenevery 60%, Clos Solon 15%, Les Poroux 15%
A nice high-toned nose here, even curry – where did that come from? Plenty of tannin here. I like the finish very much. This is excellent – though it certainly needs a little time
2018 Pommard En Brescul
On the limit of Beaune, about 20-year-old vines. Three terraces that look to the Clos des Mouches
Hmm, that has more opulent fruit, faintly with coffee too. Good structure here – open, nice complexity – some coffee oak I think in the middle – but very, very tasty with great structure.
2018 Nuits St.Georges Les Poisets,
A new parcel in 2010. Just below Les Cailles 1er – hailed in July so 20% less grapes.
Some flashes of freshness, florals even, but tighter, deeper below. Bigger in the mouth – lots of structure. Faintly saline but also dark-fruited finishing.
2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Chabiots
Below Amoureuses, a négoce wine.
Hmm – a little soft fruit on this very fine nose – wide and inviting – practically ethereal. Some wc here, saline complexity, plenty of sweetness. Long and a little spicy. Excellent.
2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Baudes
From above Bonnes Mares
Hmm – no soft fruit here – the same ethereal quality of aroma but with a purity of fruit. Whole-cluster flavour here, even if hardly on the nose. Good, chewy complexity, wc spice to finish. Super wine.
2018 Morey St.Denis 1er La Riotte
In the centre of Morey.
A nice but more modest nose after the Chambolles. Lovely volume in the mouth though – big, growing in concentration, a nice melting flavour – structural and very tasty.
2018 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Chaffots
Just above Clos St.Denis.
Good freshness and width of aroma. Supple – nice shape and openness. Again a structural finish but a good one!
2018 Morey St.Denis Vieilles-Vignes
Chenevery and Faconnières blended
An elegant, but also modest intensity nose. Mouth-filling again, complex, almost spiced with the saline tannin. The best weight of finish – tasty finish yet!
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Combottes
Planted in 1957.
Quite high toned, but also with a depth of fine-textured fruit. Big, lovely flavour – the structure a little hidden by the fruit here. A fruited finish too – long and delicious.
2018 Hospices de Nuits, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Didiers
Bought (tried to buy) since 2005.
Nice high-toned freshness. More concentrated, no less energetic – intense, certainly for waiting for. A little coffee in the finale again. Big wine – indeed impressive wine!
A contract since 2014, collecting the grapes in the vineyard
This has a nice airy impression – it’s not big but it’s very attractive. Hmm, depth of flavour, depth of texture, slowly growing a little grain. A pretty finish, slowly mouth-watering. Super Griotte.
Next to road, on top of Mazoyères, a car crashed in there recently, destroyed 27 60-year-old vines. Just now replanted.
A fine but tight nose. Plenty of sweetness, freshness too – I like the energy here, showing a little more barrel, the intensity in the finish is super. Longer than the Griotte this year …
2 parcels, 0.65 ha in Monts Louisants, and 0.25 ha in Fremiers on the limit of Clos St.Denis – when they bought their Clos de la Roche it was full of goats and sheep but no vines…
A width of saline aroma, tighter below. Another level of concentration – muscular but mobile – no fat, layers of flavour mineral at the base. Ooh that’s a great wine.
“We have 1 hectare in Clos de la Roche, the older parts are in Monts Luisants and it was my grandfather Henri Lignier who planted the parcels in 1955 after buying in 1945. Henri was pushed to buy the following parcel by his wife who had noted that it never frosted – it also never frosted in 2016! This 1955 cuvée has been made from 2017 but only 17 hl/ha in that vintage due to some hail.”
2018 Clos de la Roche 1955
A massale selection planted by grandfather, 26 rows all in Monts Luisants. 3.5 barrels in this vintage – as no hail`.
Deep colour. Fresh, more mineral, still a little tight. Less direct weight of concentration but a little more structure and volume in the mouth – more open. Plenty of finishing tannin. Impressive stuff!