Tasted with François Duvivier in Volnay, 07 November 2019.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Rue de Mont
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 75
www.domainedangerville.fr
François on 2019:
“This year was really too warm – we weren’t so happy. So there was frost which reduced the yield and flowering was less good – some losses from those but usually much should be recovered. Then the whole summer was very dry, no malady problems because of that though – but in the end, we didn’t recover the losses, we even lost a little more due to sunburn on the still green grapes – 25 hl/ha for the reds in the end and 35 hl/ha for the white. We did have a good dump of rain at the beginning of August which helped a lot. Starting harvesting 12 September. But we expect a grand millésime.”
François on 2018:
“Again hot and dry. Flowering at the end of May, harvesting, the first Monday of September. We were again lucky to have some late-August rain to help de-block the maturity – 40 hl/ha on average with 13-13.5° for maturity. To begin with, the wines were almost too easy but slowly each terroir started to evolve and we have seen a good terroir definition. We’ll probably give another 6 months of elevage to aid the length and precision. We are really happy as 17 and 18 we have a proper harvest volume – 2 years in a row!”
The wines…
The wines are very dark coloured and I feel will need every bit of their extended elevage to have a similar ‘warm weather panache’ that the domaine achieved in 2015. That said, there are, without doubt, great wines here, but today they are clearly children of the vintage.
2018 Volnay
Mainly 2 year-old barrels for elevage
Hmm – a nice and weighty nose – some power here. Fresh and intense, there’s a depth of flavour here, length too. Impressive – I’ll be looking for this to add precision vs the expected style here with more elevage.
2018 Volnay 1er Cru
Has Mitans and Pitures in the blend – completely different terroirs, high and low but a historic cuvée of the domaine
Less aromatic impact but it’s a finer nose. Ooh, sweeping lines, fresh, still an accent of cushioning that recalls the village. Energy and openness in the middle – more interest in here. Radiating out in a stronger, broader finish.
2018 Volnay 1er Clos des Angles
More soil here vs Fremiets
Hmm – drk fruit, depth. Supple, generous, layere. A grain of tannin. Almost a little chocolate depth in this.
Starting with depth but here’s a little extra in the top notes too. Finer, higher notes – more perfumed and with a little more drive. Mineral and a touch saline finishing. Ooh, already showing the potential for great!
2018 Volnay 1er Caillerets
Airy, fine width, the fruit is dark and still cushioned. The style is like that in the mouth too – open, more overt purity and a great intensity that more resembles the 17s. A narrower finishing line of flavour – but long.
A lot has been replanted – in 2017 there’s no production from that part, though there was some in 18
Hmm – a large scale, comforting, really complex nose. Ooh, I love the sweeping lines of this, it’s complex and beautifully presented, still with the mid-palate richness of the others but with a drive to the flavour like the Caillerets, yet a little more complex. Bravo!
‘I never know which of these three is higher in hierarchy – it depends on the vintage – that’s why I price them the same!’ – Guillaume d’Angerville
Hmm, that has a little lick of floral perfume – round but more in the direction of ‘classic.’ Wider, more mineral, more the d’Angerville style showing here. Intense, beautifully textured. A wiry, powerful wine, beautifully clothed and floral finishing. Already great and showing – relatively – finesse.
After the Champans a little wilder nose – like an elegant and floral blend of Champans and Taillepieds. A little more direction, airiness, fine acidity. Here an airy version of the Champans but showing a little extra grain of tannin – saline, complex. Waves of finishing flavour and long too. Almost certainly bravo but this requires more time!
2018 Meursault 1er Santenots
Ooh – that’s a nice nose – there’s power and that spice grain of Meursault – swirling makes the wine more discrete and airy. Wide, ripe and generously fruited but with innate energy. Really a correct wine. Waves of finishing flavour. Almost classically strict vs many from 18. A beauty!
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