Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Pierre Damoy, 04 December 2019.
Domaine Pierre Damoy
11 Rue Mal de Lattre de Tassigny
Tel: +33 3 80 34 30 47
Pierre on 2019:
“In 2019 we burn some straw, but I don’t think that the frost was really a problem – it was dryer here than in 2016 so I think that’s why we avoided much of the damage. Chapelle and Tamisot were first to flower and these had the lowest yield – but some places needed a green harvest, those that flowered after were less good due to the changeable weather. Otherwise no maladies but also no water! We work organically but there was some burning of the grapes by the sun. For harvesting I waited for the rain so started on the Monday after the rain – I get that right only every other year! We finished our harvest the 1st October – the only one in Gevrey for sure. We had good degrees but not too high, and with a much better balance than I expected before the rain as the grapes beforehand were a little dehydrated. The fermentations went fine, in-fact some quite fast – I’ve only just finished barreling the 2019s.”
Pierre on 2018:
“2018 – a difficult situation – Mediterranean-style vinifications, actually somewhat fragile fermentations. There was everything to make great wine, but also to make bad wine, there was an immense danger in 2018. I did less pigeage, more remontage, more air, and barreled with 2-3g of sugar still in the wines. Only the Bourgogne Rouge was complicated to finish the sugars. It’s not a question of being satisfied, but I’m sure that I will be making a longer elevage – the wines need it. The extra alcohol seems to have its hooks in the oak and you can see that more in the wines – I
harvested the grand crus first – that’s not normally the case here. Half of Marsannay and Fixin was lost after an attack of mildew that came after a storm that delivered 100mm of rain – I couldn’t go in the vines for nearly 18 days – so these are concentrated wines.”
Pierre harvested his grand crus first and they are simply great. The others are rather concentrated and ripe – they will need all of the extra elevage that Pierre intends to give them – let’s see how they turn out – maybe next year(?)
“I’ve the impression that the wines are about 6 months behind where they normally are,” says Pierre, “It may be June before I think about starting to bottle.”
2018 Bourgogne Blanc Les Ravries‘This is now in tank – the Bourgogne rouge also – but these are the only ones. Both Bourgognes come from Fixin. ‘I think the label ‘Côte d’Or’ a little elitist.’
There’s a nice, narrow, invitation to this nose. Supple, layered delivery, wide in vista. This has some power but minerality too. No lack of balance here a mineral balance in style. Yum!
2018 Bourgogne Rouge
An assembly of 4 cuvées, three next to each other in Fixin. Not yet finished malo…
Deep coloured, floral, I see no malic. But some modest CO2, wide, fresh but concentrated, slightly porty flavour but not obviously alcoholic. This tastes really great but it’s non-standard today.
2018 Fixin La Mogottes
This a négoce wine, actually a vineyard that’s rented and then Pierre pays for the grapes. Quite close the vines of the Bourgogne, 10 hl/ha more than the Bourgogne as this is partly terraced so could get into the vines to make treatments!
Wide, almost a little smoky element to the dark fruit. Ooh – that’s a great mix of fine texture and driving shape – the fruit is unctuous and dark yet the wine has a classy deliciousness. Long. Long… That’s far from a classic fruit but delicious.
Croix des Champs, Etelois, Champs-Chorey and Corvées
This has a really inviting nose, a fresh width. Hmm, deep, growing in roundness, complex, long, dark-fruited, almost liqueur but delicious…
This nose is less fresh, less inviting – showing a little more alcohol/volatile is my impression – aeration improves it a lot – some florals starting to appear and much more composure too. This has super texture, and a nice shape and drive. The finish is long and subtle – it’s very nice… More elevage needed before bottling…
2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Tamisot
I mentioned to Pierre that this was a wine that often smelled better than 1er Crus, but rarely tasted as good; ‘Yes, for a long time I made this with only about 20 hl/ha but it was too serious. Now it’s at 30 and its a much more complete wine. Unfortunately in 2018 it’s back to 20 hl/ha!’
This has a super nose – complex, inviting, it’s great. Quite large-scaled in the mouth, perhaps heading to overdone, but layered and with enough freshness, this is great flavour all the same…
This is vibrant, a little whole cluster perfume – really perfumed. Hmm, freshness, great direction, of-course ripe in the middle but this is meltingly, impressively, flavoured. The finish reflecting the florals of the nose – potentially great!
A big nose, clearly not quite ready, a little chocolate. A little reduction. Ooh – lovely shape and really mouth-filling. Super texture. This will be great!
This from 3 tanks assembled.
A more correct nose, despite some reductive notes. Wow, incisive, wide, mineral – this has a magnificent shape and sweeping lines. Grand Vin… The finish is wow…
Cuvee du Patron, not yet commercialized any vintages of this ‘but there’s not much anyway’
This has plenty of reduction on the nose. Great shape, perhaps more open, more fineness of texture. Wow again, but the reduction obviously needs to fade…