Clerget – 2018


Thibaud Clerget, 2019Tasted in Pommard cellar with Thibaud Clerget, 12 November 2019.

Domaine Clerget
12 Rue de la Combe
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 56

Thibaud on 2019:
19 is already one of my favourite vintages! The sanitary conditions of the grapes were exceptional -such tiny grapes too – I’ve only 20-25 hl/ha so half a harvest. I did very little extraction – mainly remontage. Santenots had some black frost and some sunburn, so I lost 80%, but there was the heat too! That said, there were a lot of grapes so I pruned them early.

Note that Thibaud was diagnosed with an important illness around the time of the 2019 harvest – he tells me that all is good now, but “At its base, this great harvest gave me more morale.

Thibaud on 2018:
It’s a good vintage. Date of harvesting was so important, in fact, I brought the day forward and still had 13.3-13.5°. Super quality I think, I see some structure. None of the pinot passed 40 hl/ha, most were nearer 38 – I’m allowed. 50 in some places.

The wines…

Generally excellent wines from Thibaud, and vs many in 2018 with impressive restraint.

The bottling will start for the reds in February.

2018 Meursault Les Chevaliers
‘Hardest thing was to keep the acidity, I didn’t want a heavy Meursault, this for bottling at the end of the year
Open, airy. But there’s density below. Ooh, nice attack, mouth-watering, proper Meursault spice. Ooh, a super finish after a narrow start.

Les Rouges:

2018 Volnay
From Petit Gamay plus Echats in the bottom of Champans, no new oak
Lots of colour. A deep nose, cushioned dark fruit, slowly, slowly more floral. Open, nice structure, melting, mouth-watering, practically juicy flavour. Dark fruit but nice over the palate. This is excellent.

2018 Volnay 1er Carelles sous la Chapelle
20% new oak here.
A little oak spice in the width here. Supple, more layered flavour, the oak showing through today, but the saline, mouth-watering fruit from the middle to finish is excellent…

2018 Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
Young vines. 20% new barrels again.
Here the fruit is showing ahead of the oak, deep, dark red fruit – attractive. Also no overt oak on the palate – a little more tannin but open and concentrated with a good energy. This is delicious.

2018 Volnay 1er Mitans
50% whole cluster and 50% new wood – as 2 barrels
A more airy nose, rose flowers but still not an over wc wine to start. Super-fresh, intense, complex, ooh this is brilliant, complex, structured, open, brilliant fruit, bravo!

2018 Volnay 1er Clos de Verseuil (Monopole)
Over the wall from Taillepieds and below the Clos d’Audignac – All destemmed, 30% new barrels, first harvest with 13.6° – the highest.
Also airy, a little less aromatic energy. But in the mouth, here’s energy, more minerality, a certain rigour but worth it! Ooh thats good!

2018 Volnay 1er Caillerets
One of oldest vines of domaine with nearly 80 years. ‘Always small millerande grapes. About 15-20 hl/ha due to vine age.’
A special, airy width of aroma – but at the same time pure – a great nose. Some grape tannin, but mouth-filling, open and quite fresh. Really a beautiful shape here, perhaps a suggestion of oak, but it will be soon gone. Layered finishing. Excellent wine!

2018 Pommard 1er Rugiens
2 parcels also 80 yo and 25 yo vines, the younger vines need more time before harvesting so are elevaged separately, blending at racking time, added 20% whole cluster here. ‘One is massive the other is finer – they are at best when assembled.’
Fresh and airy, tighter below. Round, a little tannic texture, but no grain. Layered, mouth-watering flavour. A simply gorgeous fruit on the finish. Excellent again.

2017 Clos de Vougeot
7 ouvrées in Grands Maupertuis, here 50% wc and new oak
Some high-toned aromatic intensity here, faintly oaked below. Full, more structured, melting flavour, with a furry coating of tannin on the tongue to finish. Very long. Correct, excellent wine!

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