Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Christophe Perrot-Minot, 04 December 2019.
54, Route des Grands Crus
Tel: +33 3 80 34 32 51
Christophe on 2019:
Hot – too hot! It was a small harvest as there was a lot of evaporation from the grapes and before that, this was a year with poor flowering. For us, it’s half a harvest. But there were no frost problems for us, so that was something!
Christophe on 2018:
“In 2018 I also made less, 25% less when compared to 2017, but I had made quite an important green harvest. There were some places that had hydric stress and in the end, I didn’t include that in my final cuvées – this was necessary to keep the aromatic freshness…”
What a formidable range from Christophe in 2018. Wines that are largely of freshness and purity of flavour – they will have much more elevage before bottling, but this is a great address in 2018 – CHAPEAU!
All in barrel, all on lees, nothing has been racked. Christophe will make multiple bottlings, starting in January with the Bourgogne, most should be done by April.
2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Not an effusive nose but an interestingly wide, red-fruited nose. Mmm, this spreads beautifully over the palate, there’s a little herb and a growing complexity, but it’s a wine that’s about very fine texture and slowly a stony-fruited length. Very red fruit length. Excellent wine – overachieving Bourgogne!
2018 Morey St.Denis En la Rue de Vergy
From just above the Clos de Tart, with fine, poor soil and lots of rock.
A little extra aromatic freshness here. Also in the mouth. This is open, beautifully textured again, more delicacy, and openly fresh red fruit. What separates this more is the vibrancy of the finishing red fruit – really fine!
Actually a more structural nose – it’s mainly a northern Chambolle. Also in the mouth there’s clarity, fine texture and an engaging freshness – Chambolle wasn’t easy in 2018 but here’s a very fine wine with an extra reprise in the finish!
A very different nose – airy, herbed in a good way – practically floral. Hmm, a wine of driving freshness and there’s a spice over the palate that absolutely reflects the wines of DRC and Comte Liger-Belair in this vintage. Vibrant finishing – great villages!
2018 Vosne-Romanée Champs Perdrix
From just above the grand crus
A little more compact but it’s also concentrated nose. Also fresh, driving and perfumed, here with a more structural perspective. Great finishing with lots of small waves of finishing flavour here. Very classy.
80% of the fruit is from La Justice plus grapes from Les Seuvrées – so a blend of north and extreme south fruit.
Plenty of colour but not to excess. A deep nose, there’s freshness and a suggestion of cream too. Fresh in the mouth, some wc perfume is the impression – I love the way this extends into the finishing favours too – always open and with proper clarity. The flavour continuing through some small dryness of structure – very persistent. Bravo villages!
2018 Nuits St.Georges ‘Les Murgers des Cras‘
This is a cuvée name, rather than a real lieu-dit. Sold as villages, but it’s actually an assembly of 3 1ers; Richemone, Cras and Murgers. Christophe has 2 ha of Richemone – the name originated when there were just 2 1ers used for this wine, but Christophe later decided to also include Richemone, keeping just the plantation of 1902 vines for the ‘real Richemone’ – Christophe notes that all the 3 parcels are nearly touching one-another.
An open, airy, perfumed nose – not a big one – but a very attractive one. Structural but not with overt tannin – just the open shape. Very nice definition, layered, relaxed fine flavour in the middle. Flavour that adheres to the inside of my mouth. Proper, excellent, Côte de Nuits.
A large-scaled nose, complex with fruit, flowers and a little spiced herb. Very open, fine freshness – there’s a transparency here that the best 2018s have. Some middle structure to wait for but here is a great mouthful of Morey wine – its more than excellent – bravo!
2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaumonts
Airy but with a compact core – it seems pure but at the same time it’s reticent. Ooh – now that’s good! Plenty of volume to fill the mouth, lots of energy, cool fruit too. The complexity is growing all the time – this is less overt than the previous wine but also grows and grows over the palate. The finish broad, fresh and impressive.
1902 vines, and like all the rest of the wines in this cellar, just 20% new oak used for elevage and without fining or filtration.
Hmm – also a nose that’s a little compact but gives the impression of a velvet curtain. Hmm, beautiful cool fruit, direction, composed class. Slowly widening in perspective. A wine that seems to keep growing. The finish is a great one – wide and persistent – yet never overstated, just over-delivering.
2015 Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveaux Cuvée Ultra
From just above Prieur’s Musigny
Here there’s a slightly more volatile energy – a nose that’s not yet fully in place. Beautiful in the mouth, some whole-cluster perfume as a reference, a width and a purity of flavour, really extra layers of flavour to be found here – totally absorbing. Super wine, and wait for the aromatics to be in place then we may have great wine.
‘From right at the top – you won’t find higher – and directly across the road from Rousseau’s Chambertin’
More volume and a more ready nose that’s fresh, and linear – yes! It’s quite perfumed too. Really wide, mineral, complex, beautifully textured wine. Vibrant finishing flavour – a great vintage for Charmes.
A deeper nose, darker fruit, darkly mineral. Driving freshness, Before widening over the palate – there’s a real intensity to this wine – insinuating its fresh flavour into your palate, staining the palate yet avoiding over-saturation. Unsurprising it holds very long – the finish more stony-fruited than previous wines. I like this excellent wine very much!
A more compact nose again, the fruit is red despite a width that’s showing only in the depth of the aroma – it’s a silky aromatic impression. More mineral, very fine, melting with cool fruit flavour, small waves of finishing flavour – fruit of uncommon clarity in 2018. A rare and delicious bird – Bravo!
Another nose that starts more compact, but the glass slowly fills with a very perfumed mix of spice and flowers – delicate, airy but compelling. Here is more power though, and complexity too – melting with lovely intensity. The finish is great – a wine that takes its time leaving the best to last – the large-scaled and engrossing finish. Here is the Chambertin!
Also, this is a modest volume nose but with a mineral almost bubbling complexity – that’s a great invitation. Broader in panorama, larger in volume – yet very open in its mouth-filling shape. The intensity slowly growing but along the width of this wine, not just in a direct intensity. A little structure, a little herb and a lot of love in this finishing flavour.