Tasted in Gevrey with Pierre-Jean Roty, 02 December 2019.
Domaine Joseph Roty
24 Rue Mal de Lattre de Tassigny
Tel: +33 3 80 34 13 59
The Rotys of Gevrey work in their own way, which means they like to show wines when they are ready for the market – so no 2018s here, only the 2017s!
Pierre-Jean on 2019:
“2019 was about the heat, the big heat. A particular climate with 3 waves of strong heat. The spring brought a rewarming of the wet soil and at the same time the racking of the 2018s. After came some risk of frost, which brought some coming together of younger vignerons working together to protect their investments in buildings and vines – I don’t think the burning of the straw helps, but the windmills seemed to work quite well. The vines pushed abundantly, treatments often at 4 or 5 am to work precisely in the vines out from the full heat – there was little rain in the summer season. The harvest began 20 September with no loss of the quality in the skins but some roasted grapes from the sun – we had some similar roast grapes the last time in 2012. Triage was relatively easy though, the harvest lasting 8 days with just a big rain while we were harvesting the Bourgogne – no blockage noted in ripening – like we had a little of in 2018. A good vintage underway. The colours seem even more than in 2018, the fermentations started nicely, slowly, and then took off!”
Pierre-Jean on 2017:
“I would say quality and quantity in this vintage. Another springtime with plenty of rain, it was a heavy year, we always had the impression that we would be hit by hail, but it never seemed to come. There was generosity in the volume of reds but less in the whites. I find wines that seem to be somewhere between 2009 and 2014. We started harvesting on 12 September, we had some rain during our 8-day harvest. A vintage of pleasure, one that drinks earlier.”
A shorter tasting than usual, due to conflicting commitments – we will try to do better next year – but some deliciously approachable and drinkable wines at this domaine in 2017.
2017 Bourgogne Blanc
80% pinot blanc in here; ‘it was JF Coche-Dury discussing with my father that had suggested that a little more core, a little more fat could come from planting pinot blanc.’
A deep nose, almost a hint musky. Supple, concentrated, lots of sucrosity, a super line of flavour with some intensity and a suggestion of the floral. Long. Tasty wine.
2017 Marsannay Blanc
Hmm, more freshness, a wider aromatic. Intense, more structural, lively wine – longer, more mineral and direct – almost chalky – a great pick-me-up – excellent!
2017 Marsannay Rosé
Old vines, over 50 average, from 2 lieu-dits, the colour from direct pressure, cases of about 30kg, triage and then destemmed, the press done at below one bar so very low pressure. 15-18 months of elevage with full malo.
Pale coloured. A faintly herbed nose that’s a little compact. Bright and vibrant in the mouth – so much more than the nose was suggesting. Slowly becoming more mineral and interesting – reminiscent of the minerality of the white Marsannay in the finish. Love this finishing style – the nose just needs a little work for bravo, but it’s already excellent…
As I’m sure you’re all aware, 2012 was the first vintage where this label came into being; a replacement for the old Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire label. In this case, the wine is 100% pinot noir from ‘very good’ parcels below Morey and Gevrey, all with oak-elevage (2-3-year-old barrels). Selection massale from the family, planted by Joseph Roty about 35 years ago.
Medium, medium-plus. Hmm, that’s a nice width of quite perfumed fruit. Open, nicely but modestly structured, lovely intensity and complexity of flavour here – ooh that’s so good – Bravo Côteaux – and I don’t say that very often.
2017 Bourgogne Rouge
From a selection of parcels in Marsannay
Again a nicely perfumed fruit, just a little less effusive. Incisive, faintly reductive, open, a wine of clarity but also a good level of intensity. Younger showing – you would do well to wait another 6-12 months, but this is ultra-rewarding wine, slowly mouth-watering from the acidity…
2017 Bourgogne Pressoniers
Vines in the commune of Gevrey
A more vertical nose – high and low tones – deep, some turned soil at the base, a growing mineral-floral note at the top. Fuller, much wider, more intensity too with a herbed line through the core. There is more depth and intensity than is common in a Bourgogne – this was once classed as a villages lieu-dit. To wait for, but really rather excellent!
The domaine have 8.5 hectares in Marsannay:
From multiple parcels.
Medium-plus colour. Some perfume but here more fullness in the aromatic bass notes. Fine definition again, just a suggestion of reduction again – deep fruit, almost crunchy dark red fruit. Wide and so appealing when you are in a block of tasting 2018s. Super wine.
2017 Marsannay Champs St.Etienne
One of the lieu-dits with the oldest history, nuns replanting in the 1600s – just like Chambertin.
Medium-plus colour again. A nose of bass notes – mainly bass – it needs time and air for the higher tones to release. Ooh – that’s got such an extra dimension of flavour – there is still just a suggestion of the reductive in the depth – and what depth this has. Modest but present texture from the tannin but über-fine-grained. Whilst I’m waiting for perfume on the nose it’s there all the time in the finish – this will be great if the nose blossoms…
80-90 year old vines for this cuvée
Here is some perfume – it’s so inviting – depth of aroma too – darker fruit. Bright, wide, faintly reductive but such an alive and mobile flavour – there is intensity but not too much, mouth-watering complexity and super width. Like all of these, some patience will be rewarded. Very long, primary fruit and graphite mineral in the finish. Bravo!