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de Vogüé – 2014

DSC08820Tasted in Chambolle-Musigny with François Millet, 19 November, 2015. It was also good to see Jean-Luc Pepin in more robust health, following a rough time with his back (discs!)

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
7 Rue Sainte-Barbe
21220 Chambolle-Musigny
Tel: +33 03 80 62 86 25

François on 2015:
“So far so good; picked in good conditions from September 03. No malos yet – they are hibernating.”

François on 2014:
“There was not really much of a winter so it was an early bud-burst from a hot Spring. The flowering was rather quick – it looked like it might be an August harvest. It’s crazy to say, but fortunately the summer was bad, so everything slowed down and this helped keep the freshness. September brought great weather, and maturity, we started harvesting on the 13th September. I like the contrast between sweetness and freshness of this vintage, there are no extremes. I’m reassured that 2014 will have something to say about its place and vintage – and with sufficient personality too.

“It’s a vintage full of poetry, a poem from nature – it’s a lyrical vintage…”

The wines…

Pump overs only in 2014, no pigeage. “Bottling to start maybe in January, we will see, but I don’t want to lose the subtlety of this poem…”

This is a beautiful set of wines that to varying degrees needs a little more time in elevage, but the delivery of flavour is classic 2014 – waves of flavour – and what waves you will find in this cellar!

2014 Chambolle-Musigny
Strong colour. The nose is bright, showing cherry red fruit, maybe a few black ones in there too. Beautiful, direct, fresh flavour of dark cherry, that’s intense in the mid-palate. Mouth-watering in the finish. This is super yum!

2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Beautiful. There is depth but I am more drawn to the gorgeous floral top notes. Wow, here is a very special width of complex flavour undoubtedly grand cru, whatever the label. There is some faintly grained tannin. Waves of flavour with beautiful flowers. Really worth the extra cash in 2014. François notes, “A river, but a springtime river that has clarity and leaves you at ease. The water would have been much colder in 13!”

2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
Hailed 10-20% – the same storm as in Pommard.
Deeply coloured. Deep, a little mineral at the base, very slowly a dark violet note begins to come onto focus. Cool, sinewy. Very wide and here is a more direct intensity. Again a wave-like delivery of flavour, mouth-watering in the finish. The super impressive complexity is in the mid-palate. A beauty…
2012 Bonnes-Mares
Big, almost brawny due to a faint reduction. Direct, concentrated, a base of tannin, here you may note also a little reduction today. The texture has a hint of grain, but it’s ripe with no dryness. Slowly this lithe, dark wine puts out complex feelers, adding layers of complexity, brighter and more floral finishing. Super!

2014 Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
We move cellars, here the wine’s a couple of degrees cooler.
The nose is deep and also impressively wide. Very silky. The wine rolls over and around your tongue with a coolness and silk, but giving little away. An intake of breath brings a large wall of floral intensity and interest – this wine waits for you to ask the questions. The flavour holds very well on the palate, with faint saline edges to the tannin. A wine that’s a hint tight at this stage – but there is more elevage to come. François: “The striking thing about Musigny is that you will never understand it.”

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?