Tasted in Gevrey with Jean-Marie Fourrier, 10 November 2015.
7 Route de Dijon
Tel: +33 3 80 34 33 99
Jean-Marie of the 2014s:
“2014 has the style, if not yields, of 99. It was a different style then, less whole clusters more new oak. 2014 was a relatively simple growing season after 12 & 13. A small attack of oïdioum, good flowering, not specially millerande grapes, but due to old vines we have small grapes anyway… Suzukii was ever-present but we managed that well and analytically had less than 0.2 volatile acidity. We continue to try to make all our treatments ‘preventative’ as ‘curative’ is always too late… The malos were relatively early here. This is a year with tannins that are not aggressive and the wines are very tasty. Maybe it has just one problem, it comes before another vintage that people currently prefer to talk about…”
Jean-Marie of the pricing of his 2014s:
“Prices? There’s no change. You can try to keep your loyal clients happy, or Monsieur Hollande…”
This year Jean-Marie chose to show only the his domaine wines – and as usual, beautiful, sleek, layered wines they were. I’d be happy to cellar any of these. Their bottling will be from the end of January into February 2016…
2014 Bourgogne blanc
A floral ripe nose, big, opulent, but still with a good acidity. A buxom, tasty wine.
2014 Morey St.Denis Clos Solon
Piercing, bright, very pretty fruit, some macerating fresh cherry included. Very good weight and bright cherry fruit again. Delicious wine, the structure largely submerged today. Yum…
2014 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Again a lovely high-toned fruit, more floral inflected. The flavour has more width and intensity, lovely bright mid-palate flavour too. Just a little more structure is visible here. Yum – again!
Very pretty, floral and exciting. Wore weight, more depth of flavour too. Waves of beautiful flavour, the structure evokes the Morey and is really covered. Excellent – with a nice chewy flavour in the finish.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Bright and wide, again floral, perhaps more airy. Fresh and a little more structured, here is more mineral intensity – drink the Aux Echezeaux while waiting. Lovely finishing flavour.
Really floral perfumed. Again, airy, fresh, intense, really lovely energy, clarity too. A beauty! Modestly structured today…
Planted between 50-56.
Gorgeous perfume – fresh, floral, not heavy this could be Chambolle, great Chambolle. Here is more intensity, minerality and super structure. Really super wine.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cherbaudes
Planted in 1940
Much higher toned, direct red fruit. Direct, intense dark red fruit on the palate. Bright and wide in the mid-palate then slowly fading. Very yum. The first with a hint of tannin in the finish.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Goulots
Planted 56, like Cros Parantoux – with dynamite!
Less intense high tones, more width – more guarded but not too tight. Fuller, but lithe, like another AOC level, with waves of flavour, that continue long in the finish. Excellent mineral impression.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeau
Again perfumed, a darker fruited version of the Vougeot. Full, generous red fruit, growing intensity and really über tasty. Fresher flavour in the long direct finish.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines
Airy again, fresh red fruit and flowers. Here is a little gas behind the texture, but what impressive intensity. A super wine of fresh intensity.
Beautiful aromatic depth, not so wide or high-toned as some, but rather perfumed – a narrower version of the Champeau but with more depth. Wow width, with waves of fresh flavour, I would say attack, but that hints of aggression, this is pure. Flavour, hinting towards a base of minerality and clarity. Class… in the finish too!
Extra florality, but a little tighter aromatically. Wide and large-scaled, not particularly massive, but rather complex, just a little mineral. Beautiful complex wine. I used to think of this as the domaine’s big fluffy, perfectly textured and cushioned but essentially simple wine – here not – there’s complexity to burn…