Mark Haisma – 2014


DSC08814Tasted in St.Philibert with Mark Haisma, 18 Novemberber 2015.

Mark Haisma
1 Route de Saint-Philibert
21220, Gevrey-Chambertin

Mark on the 2015 vintage:
Clean, lovely, lovely. It was a treat to have all this clean fruit and fire it through triage. Normally it’s a 10 day harvest here, but it went so quickly we could do it in 5! Really a treat. There’s a warm glow just talking about it. Still a couple of whites are unfinished, but those apart, all the malos already done…

Mark on the 2014 vintage:
“Maniacal selection in the vineyard and then again at winery – almost a competition as to who could find bits of volatile rot!

“The wines will be offered to the mailing list in January. The wines are all in tank now, so just a sulfur adjustment before bottling in the new year. The biggest thing is to have patience; how do I take the fruit and do the fewest steps possible – I started, like always, with anxiety but slowly I think that both maturity and confidence is beginning to take over…

Mark on the 2014 vintage pricing:
“Some higher contract prices will mean a small increase in some, but I expect mainly just small increases on my side to cover inflation…”

Mark sells direct via a list which you should be able to access – here.

The wines…

The reds this year are elegantly styled but wonderfully tasty. The whites are more brash and energetic – and equally delicious.

2014 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Chambolle and Gevrey communes from good old vines. A lot of effort here, less whole-cluster than, for instance, Bonnes-Mares, but no less care.
Good colour. Wide and with a decent depth, suggesting flowers above. Lovely wide, fresh and intense, the texture is good and so is the depth of flavour. Very yum!

2014 Volnay Les Grands Poisots
High-toned fruit, a little perfumed too, though not particularly floral. Rounder, beautifully textured, here is a really heavenly high-toned fruit. The tannin is largely anecdotal, or certainly will be by the time its bottled. Just a honey.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin
Was a single vineyard (Croix de Champs) but also got offered La Justice in 14. Started separate vinifications but found the blend so much more interesting than the individuals so now 8 barrels – ‘About 35% whole-cluster here. More zen.’
Wide and fresh with an undertow darker red fruit. Theres a round core, a more ethereal impression on the palate. This is beautifully elegant wine. Never forceful just a beauty.
2014 Nuits St.Georges La Charmotte
Charmots below 1ers on vosne side with deep gravels. Totally destemmed, no remontage or pigeage, just pushing the cap down with hands. ‘Not looking for any of the alleged Nuits structure.’
A little more aromatic depth, very faintly spiced. Fills the moth nicely, very finely textured, fruit flavour that comes in waves, bright and beautiful waves.

2014 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Chaffots
Here is lovely and rather floral inflected nose, lovely complexity. Direct, linear flavour, quite mineral, cool fruit, delicate and precise complex flavours. 75% whole-cluster. In terms of shape, this is very Clos de la Roche just missing the finishing width of that label…

2014 Pommard 1er Clos des Arvelets
A new cuvée. Also the Nuits approach here, looked for a specific ripeness in the grapes, self-picked like the majority of the grapes here. 5 barrels, but potentially 10 in hail free, normal yield vintages.
A soft red fruit, rather discreet. Wide, a little muscle, a growing tannin, but very much an anecdote – still a Pommard anecdote. Lovely floral finishing flavour. Almost a little shy – or maybe I should say coy…

2014 Bonnes-Mares
Very fine high tones with a gentle spice. Big in the mouth, plenty of structure, finely textured tannin, a growing high-toned fruit flavour in the mid-palate. A composed rather than a massive or brutal Bonnes-Mares – I like it all the more for that. Super. Nice almost saline note coming through in the finish.

Les Blancs…

2014 Saint Romain Le Jarrons
A cold plot, planted in the 1950s, that can get frosted early in the growth-cycle, very often with millerande fruit.
Wide open, an engaging freshness of aroma, faintly lemon yellow, lots of depth here. A nice little plushness to the texture but with beautiful citrus acidity and length very mineral too…

2014 Saint Romain Combe Bazin
All the work is done the same as in Le Jarrons, but this is a warmer place – plus a mix of older and young (11yo) vines.
More open, more citrusy a lovely engaging nose. A more direct line of citrus fruit padded again, particularly so in the brilliant finish. Mineral again, but not the same. Bravo!
2013 Santenay Saint Jean
A little more weight of aroma, sweet citrus below. Mineral but with a muscular addition to the texture, starts rather discreet but then there’s a burst of fresh flavour ringed with salinity. A more contemplative wine that the St.Romains, but balanced, fresh and delicious.

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