Tasted in Morey with Jacques Devauges, 03 November, 2015.
Clos de Tart
7 Route des Grands Crus
21220 Morey St.Denis
Tel: +33 3 80 34 30 91
Jacques on 2015:
Happy and not happy. The quality was exceptional; magnificent grapes with great balance, pH 3.2-3.5 no rot, for that, excellent. But another small vintage for quantity. Not much juice, small grapes. There could be more charm than 2005 but lets see. Everything is in place for a great vintage but we will see.
Jacques on 2014:
The last vintage of Sylvain – I find it very nice, charming and seductive. Probably too good for saving. Really the vintage started too early and had good flowering conditions, afterwards, mid-July was colder and more humid. Was probably good from the perspective of putting a brake on the maturity. The harvest started on the 17th September. The malos were normal and finished in June.
In the traditional system of Sylvain, Jacques presented the individual cuvées of the constituent parts of the Clos de Tart before showing the potential, final blend. He planning to make two samples before the bottling; a full assembly, and another without the young vines. Only then will it be decided if there will be a Forges de Tart cuvée. But, as Jacques notes, its anyway mot made every year…
Young vines, 15 years average but three parcels top, mid, bottom.
Really, deeply aromatic, round and truffly textured – super. Lithe, with a little tannic texture – fresh in the middle, a more herby fruit flavour but then brightens again in the finish. Floral perfume in the mouth at the end. Really opens here…
All mid-slope, now 30 years old…
Tighter at the top but really a deep fruit aroma. Bigger, rounder in the mouth, some tannin texture. Lovely supple, lithe energetic wine. More waves of flavour, more concentration too.
All rest of the vines are more than 60 years old, from a massale selection:
From next to Bonnes-Mares
Not a massive nose but one of impressive detail. A massive leap in richness and weight – there is balance, but also minerality and a faint salinity. The finish as a burst of flowers and is super persistent.
Similar rock to number 1, but with much less soil.
Bright dark fruit and minerality. A discreet weight of aroma. Also with wonderful texture and richness, a little less rich than cuvée 1 but really with a spheric impression in the mouth, more energy and once more brilliant in the finish.
Only 30 cm of soil here and ostria acuminata limestone from middle of the slope.
More high-toned, really pretty and very detailed. Really a mouth-filling wine, not super energetic, but is searches out every corner of your mouth. Mouth-watering, mineral and so complex, yet contemplative…
Also on marne with a little Premeaux limestone.
A very different, fresh fruit aromatic, with a floral almost pyrazine impression. A little richer texture, again, more salted, really openly complex. Massively so in the finish.
1st Vin de Presse
All the parcels and different amounts of whole clusters ranging from 10%-100%, but averaging about 40%
Wide and complex, almost textured. Really big in the mouth, more present tannin, but almost grain-less, a salty coffee/chocolate flavour. I find this also superb. It’s not impossible that this will feature in the final assembly 😉
Including the young vines.
Airy, perfumed, less overt but seemingly silky. Wow texture, rich but modestly so, wide, has presence, no fireworks here but with a brilliant width of flavour that goes on and on…