Tasted in Volnay with Jean-Pierre Charlot, 17 November 2015.
Domaine Joseph Voillot
Place de l’Église
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 27
JP Charlot on 2014:
“For me it’s a really interesting vintage. Like the previous hailed years the timing of the hail helped dry the affected grapes and added concentration – of course it would have been nice to have had some volume too! And the finance aspects are really difficult for everyone.
“But easily the best present I could have had is the news that there is somebody in the family who would like to take on the domaine – there has been much speculation about the potential for succession or even the sale of the domaine, but I am very relieved that we can now forget about that.”
The latter news is indeed heart-warming. It would be no surprise to anyone who knows Jean-Pierre, that he gives short shrift to the vultures (sorry, investors’ representatives) who called almost weekly to check on the status of the domaine and its vineyards – which if anything, intensified following the death of his father-in-law, Joseph Voillot. We can, it seems, look forward to continuity at this great address!
Simply a great set of wines – the Pommards are truly breathtaking in this vintage!
2014 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles-Vignes
Fresh and bright. Lovely modestly floral inflected nose. Round, supple modest, largely submerged tannin. A a little flavour intensity in the finish. Bright finishing pop! Very nice length.
From 5 different parcels; Grand and Petits Poisots, Gigotte, Pacquiers and Famines
Classic, very pretty floral Volnay. A super inviting nose that starts narrow, then broadens with wide, red fruit of good intensity. Here’s some oak texture, but it’s modest. Bright finishing again lingers very well. Super!
2014 Pommard Vieilles-Vignes
From Cras, Saucilles, Vaumauriens and Poisot
Less wide, deeper and higher tones. Lots of energy here, a more direct wine, more tannin below for sure. Dark fruit in the mouth-watering finish. Here is a wine less far in elevage, but there is freshness and class…
2014 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets
A deep, finely textured nose. More weight, super silky texture, waves of fruit flavour. A beauty, and classic 2014 in delivery!
Fine and deep, very pretty dark red fruit and a hint of something mineral. Just a little more direct and a little more structured, yet the texture remains super… Lovely mouth-watering flavour, really lovely.
2014 Volnay 1er Cru Champans
Deep, dark, gelée fruit. Silky, fine and lithe in the mouth – there’s plenty of tannin here, but much finer than the last wines. Like the Caillerets, real flavour seeps through your teeth and goes very long. Super!
Wide and floral. – really a beautiful and inviting nose. In the mouth a very direct flavour yet supported by a silky texture. A little minerality and a lot of complexity in the mid-palate and onwards into the finish. This is showing very, very well today!
A bright floral nose full of violets. Sweetness, width, an undertow of tannin but largely covered by a little fat – fine texture again. Floral finishing too – it will need some time, but it will be super – I’d try the occasional bottle but fully expect at least 7-8 years of patience for reward… Gorgeous finishing flavour.
Deep, dark fruit, concentrated, almost brooding. Really super-wide, here’s a flavour panorama. The fruit is cool, but combined with supple structure and a fineness of texture. Gorgeous dark fruit finishing flavour.
Less open nose, deep and of beautiful clarity. Supple, very finely textured, complex flavour – really complex. These pommards are really singing. More primary here but with more concentration too. The finishing is achingly lovely… Bravo!