Tasted in Gevrey with Mark Fincham and Moray Tawse, 20 October 2015.
56 Route de Beaune
Tel: +33 3 80 34 33 14
www.maume.fr (not currently operating)
This domaine was once called ‘Bernard Maume’ – I’m not sure if the ‘Bernard’ is used now. The wines will continue to be made here for at least this and next (2016) year, thereafter it will probably to move to Nuits if/when the old Moillard cellars are redeveloped. It’s already the 3rd vintage here since the purchase, and they’ve moved first to organic and then bio in the vineyards, now they are also starting to replace some of the vines too.
Mark on 2015:
2015? A fantastic year to be making wine in burgundy. We had less than 1% sorting, and picked between 7-13th September. The Mazis was done just before the rain on the Saturday. pH coming in was about 3.4, which dropped to 3.5 after fermenting – 0.1 less than 2004.
Morey on 2014 pricing:
Prices are still to be determined, they went up a lot in 2012 from what Maume were doing. They stayed the same in 2013, so maybe we’ll also keep 2014 the same – but it looks like 15 could be more speculative!
The 1ers and GCs are not yet racked – they rest on their fine lees, so are a little reductive. Will probably wait for April/May to assemble and bottle. Only the Bourgogne will be sooner. The grapes are all picked in small cases; the Bourgogne treated exactly the same as Mazis except for some difference in whole-clusters that are used.
La Vigne Blanche near Crais – just one parcel, picked 16 Sept. 25% new oak, 2 from 8 barrels.
Very perfumed with some higher-toned oak notes. Lithe, concentrated, a little oak tannin – still tasty.
From vineyards in and around Crais plus Clos Prieur Bas, Combes and Justice – 8 parcels.
A similar smoky oak that’s attractively spiced. Bigger, more shape, a nice salinity. Excellent length here, again some oak.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud
Smoky top notes. Bigger in the mouth, rounder, a little softer, indeed an easier wine. Though with proper shape and structure towards the finish.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois
There’s a suggestion of smoky reduction, 30% whole bunch here. Round and mouth-filling, but no fat, again a nicely salty aspect to the mid-palate. Tasty.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Mainly from Cherbaudes and historically contained some young vines from 1er and grand cru. In 2015 will just be Cherbaudes. 20% whole bunch, 25% new oak.
Wide, accented to oak but interesting if a little tight. Lovely lithe texture, growing acidity, plenty of dry material in the middle and a lovely flavour – super!
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux
50% new oak.
Wide, a little reduced, super fruit intensity here and perhaps a little more freshness too. The tannin is more solid, but no dryness. Easier yet fresher.
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux
A fine freshness to this, next vintage will be the last with the name maume as it will go back to the familly. Not sure what the new name will be. A super complex, tasty, open wine – this is shiwing really well.
This used to be bottled as Charmes-Chambertin.
Deep, and a little reduced – oak inflected too – not fully formed. Big, some tannin texture and afterwards a stunning fruit flavour of clarity and gorgeousness. En attend!!!
From three parcels in Mazis-Bas; old vines, some 70 years-old. In 2014 all was whole bunch.
The aromas are like most others, a little smoky and unformed. Muscle, lithe complexity up to the mid-palate – but it’s really exceptional after the mid-palate. It holds super-well too.
Oak is fully integrated here, despite 35% new. It seems a little tight, but the nose still has depth with a faint high almost floral tone. Lovely texture, mainly from the well-managed fine tannin. Really exceptional length for a villages – super!