Tasted in Pernand with Christine Gruère-Dubreuil, 06 November, 2015.
Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Père et Fils
Tel: +33 3 80 21 55 43
Christine on 2015:
“2015 was a lovely, warm, early harvest – but also an easy harvest. We started the 2nd September with a good team in good conditions, so it was fast, particularly as there was not so many grapes – I wish we had more! Volumes were minus 40% for reds and minus 20% for whites… I think the reds were down mainly due to the fatigue from the last years of hail”
Christine on 2014:
“In 2014 we had a little more wine. Harvested mid-September. The season was more stressy and of course there was the hail at the end of June – because of that, it was less than a full harvest. We saw some drosophila in Pernand – I was worried at start, but luckily we’ve found nothing volatile in the wines. I find a nice balance in the whites – they have a combination of richness and minerality. For the reds We are happy, nothing hard here.”
Whites in bottle since just before harvest, only bourgogne rouge so far in reds. The reds here are really not the simple, easy wines of many addresses; they are really detailed and not overly sweet. They often beg a little cellar time, but they will benefit from it. A super address in 2014.
Fresh, essentially tight nose. Nice width and freshness on palate a green lime-style fruit here. But nice waves of flavour. A little mineral. Actually I’d wait 6-12 months to drink this one.
Also tight but very pretty and precise notes – lovely. Lovely width, rounder, a hint mineral and saline, but really lovely width and breadth of flavour. Also always great value. – lovely – and fine finishing too.
A deeper nose of agrume fruit. Nice. More direct and more mineral again, a hint of flesh, but essentially a wine of direct, fresh and detailed, mouth-watering flavour. Pretty flavours completing the finish. Really lovely but you should drink the Sous Frétile first.
A little tight but with perfect focus in the high tones. Here is a step up in both concentration and intensity, but a padded intensity via the concentration – lovely intensity. Pow! in the finish. Lovely and lingering. Always a very direct and mineral wine this, and based on my experience, I really wouldn’t worry about waiting the required 8-10’years… Lovely.
2014 Pernand-Vergelesses Clos Berthet
Big, round and attractive red fruit nose. Round, comforting texture, there’s some tannin but it’s modest. Lovely red fruit flavours of quite good complexity. This is extremely drinkable – yum!
Quite high vines towards Nantoux, not touched too much by the hail.
Open and a little floral. Wide, a little herb, not the sweetest – maybe better to show before the Berthet, but the texture is fine and the finish more-so.
Very small rendement.
Here’s a fine pretty nose. High toned and inviting. Wider, a little more texture, again not the sweetest fruit, but there’s more dimension of flavour here – this is complex and very interesting. I like this very much. Lovely complexity in the finish where it’s very attractive.
2014 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
Freshness over a core of fainter but ripe red fruit. Supple, ripe fruit notes, a very impressive higher-toned flavour over the base of well textured tannin.
Here is a rather discreet nose, but its complex and inviting. Really lovely texture and weight here. The fruit is cool, but it’s really complex in the mid-palate. Meltingly pretty flavour in the finish – I always love this wine…
Super complexity, clearly a beauty! A classy floral note. Bigger and rounder in the mouth, lovely dimensions of fruit flavour. Super-tasty. A very fine and really a beautifully long finishing note.
2014 Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Vercots
Here the nose is today less involving; faint, slightly herby top notes, but tight below. Fresh and complex with a very fine mouth-watering fruit. Normally Aloxe can be a bit big and overly demonstrative, but, here is complexity, energy and real class. I would never normally use the word elegant here, but…!
“This a blend of 2 parcels; one from Grands Epenots and the other in Petits Epenots – officially, ‘Epenots’ alone doesn’t exist!”
Really a complex and gorgeous nose – excellent. Faintly floral. Here is structure, but it’s really just a place to hang beautiful, mouth-watering flavours. A little tannin aside, you really could enjoy this now, but I’d suggest waiting a little longer! Super wine and really complex finishing. Excellent, and often the best wine at this address imho….
Here is a very fine and bright leading note of flowers. Larger scaled in the mouth, some tannin too, fresh and fine flavour. There is no fruit padding or extraneous texture, here is just pure Corton and from Perrières at that! Simply gorgeous flavours and a structure that says wait! Very good wine.
A deeper, darker nose, the complexity is all deep. Here is a richer complexity of fruit flavour and it’s a little rounder in scale too – yet again not a wine of extraneous texture or padding. Really excellent finishing flavour. More gourmand today that’s for sure.
A big round, complex and slightly spicy nose. Slowly develops a floral note too. Big, full-flavoured, joyously flavoured wine. The fruit doing a good job of (trying to) coating the tannin. The finish is just a little more discreet but beautifully tasting and floral inflected. Super wine in 2014.