Tasted with Frédéric Soupé in Chablis, 15 January 2024
Domaine Soupé
ZA des Violettes
1 rue de la Paix
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 52 79 50
www.domainesoupe.com
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Frédéric on 2023:
“It was a relatively clean vintage – we had to avoid the mildew of course – there was quite some pressure – it wasn’t a complicated vintage though. We’re not organic so we make the choices that we needed to. It wasn’t a vintage to just let nature take its course. I plan to make a longer elevage of the 2023s.”
Frédéric on 2022:
“I think it’s a good vintage that I might, for the moment, compare to 2019 – from richness and balance – I like them. Like everyone we had a bit of frost – we heat the 1ers and make the pruning late – so for two years I haven’t suffered too badly – 22 & 23. The heights – like Petit Chanlis – were the places most hit by the frost. All the wines were bottled in July 2023 – we incorporated 30% large-format barrels (500-litre) none were new, for our 1ers – Montée de Tonnerre absorbs the oak more easily so these were 3 year old barrels vs the 5-year-old for the other two 1ers. I’m just starting to commercialise some 2022s, not all the 2021s are sold – but I’m happy to have some stock now.”
The wines…
Delicious, classy wines – I think the old vine Chablis and the Montée de Tonnerre are a great ones!
DIAM3 for the Petit Chablis and the Chablis and for the old vine cuvée it’s DIAM5 then DIAM10 for the Grand Cru:
2022 Petit Chablis
Above Valmur – looking towards Beru – south-facing
A very forward nose – a hint of green citrus in this mix. Full, some richness but there’s energy and shape here that balances admirably – that’s a lovely wine and finishes very well. Super!
2022 Chablis
The climat is Pargues – it’s the first vinification here as the vines were acquired in 2022.
Broad, more floral accented citrus fruit – a chalky impression too. Larger scale vs the PC – very mineral – there’s plenty of green citrus and salinity in these flavours – and tons of finishing flavour. I’d keep this a year or two – but it’s simply an excellent Chablis.
Also from Pargues ‘good clays here, the vines on SO4.’
A more airy and fine aromatic – certainly less powerful. More direct, mouth-watering and mineral – ooh – now that’s a great one – obviously silky and saline. That’s a great villages!
2022 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Roncières.
Hmm – a little airy style like the previous wine but here with a little cushion of florality too. Hmm – mouth-filling with relaxed energy, classy flavour too. Properly complex, saline and juicy. This is delicious and already so drinkable – small, lingering, waves in this finish – it’s a simply excellent and completely delicious 1er cru!
2022 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
‘I think 3 years is enough to wait for a 1er cru – they are already good after 1 year but three you can see all…’ 70 year-old vines, south facing so a good maturity.
Hmm – a more direct, acidulated start then it becomes more relaxed – and floral too – just a little more direct than the Vaillons. Hmm, larger scale and with a more overt generosity. Holding this larger scale in the finish as it slowly fades. I slightly prefer the definition of the Vaillons vs the volume of this – it’s a style not a quality choice – this is also a super 1er cru.
Have 3 -lieu dits Côte de Brechain, Pied Aloup and Chapelots the latter of which accounts for about 60% of the surface – it’s more Portlandian and with deeper soil here. ‘I think the three together form a nice balance’
More a nose of crystalline partly green-shaded citrus. Direct but melting, great shape – still not the deliciousness of the Vaillons but I think we have something potentially greater here. Beautifully shaped – like a more generous and more complex VV. Great!
2022 Chablis Preuses
‘I have passed to 18 months of elevage for the GC which will be bottled in March or maybe the start of April.’ Organic vines – the only wine that sees oak during elevage – but 100% 500-litre barrels. ‘I’m looking for the support, rather than the flavour.’
You note the barrel but also the weight of this aromatic – tons of material. In the mouth too – so silky, plenty of richness – but super definition. What an excellent wine. Great finishing – that’s a super wine – you should look out for it!