Tasted in Beine with Stéphanie Mosnier, 01 February 2024.
Domaine Sylvain Mosnier
36 Route Nationale
89800 Beine
Tel: +33 3 86 42 43 96
www.chablis-mosnier.com
Domaine Instagram
More reports with Domaine Sylvain Mosnier
On 2023:
“It was a dream! Okay, it was a little difficult to deal with the weather – lots of rain – I had no mildew on the grapes but a little on the leaves – we had a little late arriving oïdium but of less importance – but the result was good. And all went well in the cuverie.”
On 2022:
“Normal – 50 hl/ha – so not as much as in 2023. It was an easy vintage, drier and with fewer treatments – finishing our last treatment at the start of July. Whilst not a big vintage it was certainly welcome to have some wine in the tanks after 2021!”
The wines…
I’m much more a fan of the domaines ‘normal’ Chablis bottlings rather than those with special cuvée names – but this is a very under-rated address for excellent Chablis.
The bottlings are done, starting at the end of July 2023 – there was just one an earlier bottling in April to tide them over due to the lack of 21s…. The first use of DIAM here was in 2007 for their entry wines and thereafter slowly expanding their use. Since 2011 for the whole range:
2022 Petit Chablis
They have 4 hectares above Beines on the plateau; one part with a bit more clay the other with more limestone.
A large width of aroma – mineral, faintly herb-inflected. This sits really well in the mouth, ripe but fresh, not overly generous almost an apple compote accent to the citrus – it’s actually delicious.
2022 Chablis
More clarity, more minerality – nothing hard – it’s a fine invitation. Really wide, almost panoramic. A mm of cushion and tasty, juicy citrus fruit. The finish framed with a modest but welcome salinity. Yum!
2022 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Multiple parcels assembled – same vinification – all tank.
This starts a little tight but opens with more floral perfume. More scale and energy too – the clarity and minerality are a notch higher than for the first Chablis – I like this a lot – there’s a little generosity of cool fruit but this is essentially a more direct and very Chablis wine – and it’s delicious – excellent!
2022 Chablis 1er Beauroy
‘A lot of clay in the soil here.’
Airy but a nose with more scale. Like the VV in style but with more complex energy and depth to the flavours. Definitely a step higher, a mm of cushion in the middle flavours. Super wine – lovely salinity in this finish too – clean and moreish.
2022 Chablis 1er Côte de Lechet
A nice width of aroma – the fruit has a nicely direct intensity and a slightly balsamic accent. A more vertical shape in the mouth lots of high and low tones. Lovely fruit in this finish with clean yellow citrus length – that’s very tasty and it has a touch of chalky texture right at the end!
2022 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes l’Antic
This with jar elevage.
Here there’s a little reduction. Direct, vibrant, more depth of flavour but a small added rigour from the reduction. The finish has some breadth – overall it’s less expressive today than the previous 1ers…
2022 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes Terres Secrets
Jar, tank and longer elevage.
Also a small reduction but this is altogether more open and energetic. A small suggestion of gas – there’s rounder and more generous flavour. The reduction makes the finish a little more strict but here is a lovely finishing complexity – it’s really tasty here.
2022 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes 1893 Heritage
The old vines with 100% barrel elevage.
A rounder, oaked nose. I like the shape, the clarity of the flavour and the easy energy of this wine – the flavours today a little too much crème-caramel/creamy from the barrel. Certainly a very good wine but I wouldn’t drink one for 5 years to let the barrel fade – hopefully that’s enough time.
2020 Chablis Réserve
Barrel for less than three months an lots of tank elevage.
A higher toned nose – some barrel but very different in style to the previous. Incisive, cool fruit and minerality. A small rounding of the shape by the wood but this is a much more attractive style of oak for my own palate. Slowly fading also with a hint of caramel – but a subtle hint – that’s a nice wine which I’d wait 2-3 years to enjoy.