Tasted in Tonnerre with Baudoin Millet, 19 January 2024.
Domaine Millet
Ferme de Marcault
Route de Viviers
89700 Tonnerre
Tel: +33 3 86 75 92 56
www.chablis-millet.com
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Baudoin on his last vintages:
“Like everyone it was honestly a super volume in 2023. For me during harvest I’ve never seen such a balance, I like the acidity and think we’ll have some good wines. 2022 has a lovely quality to it but I find with my vines a more sunny vintage than I think 2023 will turn out.”
The wines…
Since ‘forever’ benchmark Petit Chablis and in this vintage also the Chablis – well done Baudoin !!
This wine sees elevage for the same length of time as the 1er cru.
A nice breadth of aroma, with a faint floral. Supple, lovely depth of flavour, comfortable, saline but still fresh and delicious. Great PC – what more could you want?!
This with some of the oldest vines of the domaine from 1980 – later bottled with longer time on the lees. A quality clone that delivers a lower yield – normally more round. PC is 80% of the exploitation here. The Perle a parcel selection – ‘not quite VV but some of the first plantings here in the 1980s with a fine clone giving low yields.’.
Also a lovely nose – here with some extra higher tones and still nicely floral. This is a more structural wine – but a melting structure – you hardly need to wait for this juicy, delicious wine. Certainly a little more strict but in the best sense of that word – bravo!
2022 Chablis
Not the widest – but here is a super, vertical, nose with fine top and lower notes. Holding a middle concentration, slowly melting – there’s a fine amount of material here – and it’s delicious too – but I’d be waiting 12-18 months before attacking – simply excellent and with lovely finishing texture.
2022 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
0.38 hectares of 65-year-old vines – Cork for this and 1er cru – the rest DIAM-style – ‘I don’t know why – it’s tradition! I hope this is good as it’s my last bottle! I’m not sure the ‘old’ makes the difference but the lower rendement I’m sure does.’
Hmm – this has more aromatic breadth and a pretty accent of salinity. Broad in the mouth too – supple, generous even but with a fine shape and mouth-watering style – more contemplative and concentrated wine – delicious. The energy more subtle but the finish is deliciously large in scale.…
2022 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
1 hectare of vines.
Fresh, floral and mineral – that’s a lovely invitation. Across the palate this is more overtly fluid and mouth-watering – the energy more overt too. There’s structure here but the fluidity ensures that there’s nothing hard. Maybe the finish suggests ‘wait’ – okay, I’ll wait another week – I love it!