Tasted with Jean-François Bordet in Maligny, 25 January 2024.
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
8 Chemin des Hâtes
89800 Maligny
Tel: +33 6 45 47 44 42
www.seguinot-bordet.fr
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Jean-François on 2023:
“It was a lot of work; new emloyees, pressure from maladies… But I just racked the wines, they have energy and some hints of exotic fruit. I think not as concentrated as 22 but it’s too early to say more and they do have nice lees.”
Jean-François on 2022:
“Still some frost but we had 5 ha of candles plus some aspersion. I still managed to do a little over 60 hl/ha so there’s some VCI. We are close to finishing the elevage apart from the grand crus but the wines are super. It was a very clean year with almost no treatments necessary. It’s one of the best vintages of the last 10 years – I think 14 probably the best”
The wines…
Jean-François absolutely nailed the 2021 vintage – he’s on a run – these 2022s are also great !!
Almost all bottled:
From Tonnerre
A pretty nose – not large scale. Larger scale in the mouth – energetic too and slightly saline – ‘simple bourgogne’ but completely delicious Bourgogne – bravo!
‘Plateau in Maligny is all clay, almost no stones – this brings a floral, just some large stones – indistinguishable from the grand cru rock’. This with screw-cap – also plenty screwcaps for villages Chablis. There’s DIAM-style seals and screw-caps for this wine
Just a little more aromatic volume here – a pretty depth. Fresher, fuller, silkier – ooh that’s just beautiful! That’s a great PC!
2022 Chablis
Here from Maligny, there are some parts with clay but mainly it is more stony ground. ‘Maligny does have a certain roundness though.’
A more vertical nose – not so wide but with plenty of top-end freshness. Direct, cool, a little more lithe muscle than the PC – more intense – I’d a wait a year or two for this to relax but it’s a beauty!
118 year-old vines in this – but for the last time – this the last vintage before replanting…
Depth of aroma plus a nice top perfume. Ooh – volumes of crystal pure flavour. Richer but completely balanced with cool freshness and a chalky finish at the end – a great one – buy the last of these old real ‘Venerables’!
Today this is 100% from Homme Mort, 55-year-old vines.
A light floral over an airy yellow citrus – it’s a compelling invitation to drink. Clean, mouth-filling and wide, a little extra juiciness – such a great, always widening finish always so mouth-watering – a great and complex finish too. I think that’s a top wine!
2022 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From bought grapes – labelled Jean-Francois Bordet. This with DIAM10
A more compact nose today – but still it’s an invitation to drink. Plenty of gas but open, energetic, and more perfumed higher tones – My choice would be the slightly stricter Fourchaume today.
All tank elevage for this, bottled in November. It’s a mix of diam and cork for the 1ers but the grand crus are all cork, ndtec
Volume but less intensity today – but you can sense the latent concentration. Yes! Mouth-filling, concentrated but framed with a shimmering mineral energy – ooh that’s so impressive and deep too. What a wine – but wait at least 5 years – it’s a great one!
Also a 500-litre barrel – but this one was 2 years old.
If anything, an even more shy nose – slowly I have the impression of extra depth. Hmm – intense, linear, stony minerality. Great, great wine and the barrel rather than overly colouring the flavour actually make this a lot more approachable than the Preuses – I could (would!) drink this today. Great wine again!