Tasted with Laurent & Maxime Notton in Chichée, 22 January 2024.

Domaine Laurent & Céline Notton
4 impasse Saint-Paul
89800 Chichée
Tel: +33 6 81 03 98 66
www.chablis-notton.com
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Laurent on 2023:
“2023 was magnifique! We’ll see what it brings but it looks like a good start – not all the malos are going fast though. Unlike the 2022s which were all done for Christmas.”

Laurent on 2022:
“Yes, I’m very happy with how the wines have turned out! I even had a little VCI in the vintage so I’m very happy. All the bottling has been done – the last in November – this second bottling was for the VCI from that vintage. We are happy with the wines and our market is going well – we had a good start this year with sales.”

The wines…

That’s a really super range – delicious, often chiselled wines – well-done!

Only ‘natural’ cork used here:

2022 Petit Chablis
Open and vibrant. Direct, modestly generous. Nicely strict finishing, slowly fading – excellent, faintly saline too. Super!

2022 Chablis
Higher toned, still a faint exoticism but this is also intense and pure. More mouth-filiing – still with a modest generosity – intense like the PC in the finish but much broader – larger in scale. Keep this a year or two – it will be even better.

2022 Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Last from Chichée but this from Courgis from the family side of Céline. No barrel here.
A fresh aromatic attack – more of an attack than the previous. Also a little generosity but here is a more mineral and melting style of flavour – the salinity a little more to the fore. The finish even wider, the flavour, whilst mineral, seems darker and deeper – different not ‘better.’

2022 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Les Grosses Terres
Courgis again – Les Grosses Terres – here with some barrel elevage – always small berries from these vines.
A blend of depth and freshness but quite together – the oak hardly visible on the nose. Panoramic width, more slain again, holding a super mineral, modestly complex – love the finish here. Again the finish is top – Keep 2 years for the best but I hardly note the wood in this. Excellent wine!

2022 Chablis 1er Beauregards
A rare 1er from a little more than 30-year-old vines – there are only 4 or 5 who label as such, including the cousin (of Céline) Thomas Pico
Depth of aroma – a little less mineral and more floral vs the last – there was a little barrel elevage here. Hmm, extra mineral, growing in intensity – like a stricter Vaucoupin – what is there not to enjoy – again – hyper-discreet oak – well done! Excellent wine.

2022 Chablis 1er Vaugirot
Vines from 1935, just 1,200 bottles – all barrel elevage – about 10 month
The first wine where I sense (more than smell) some barrel. Wide, vibrant, growing in intensity – Ooh – I love this! Because of the barrel I’d try to keep my hands of this for 3 years – maybe I’ll only manage 2! Yes!

And some recently – only 2 weeks – bottled 2022s:

2022 Petit Chablis
Young (6) vines in Chichée – a small parcel of not much more than 1k bottles.
Actually a little calmer aromatics than the examples I tasted in January. A good nose of energy and no excess. More direct, silky, some complexity too – a little herb and mixed citrus. That’s very lovely – the most ‘Chablis-style’ wine that I’ve tasted from this vintage – so far!

2022 Chablis
Fuller aromas, plenty of perfume – maybe not fully open but there’s material here! A width of calm, mineral flavour with a growing complexity of citrus notes. Like the nose, there’s much depth here – and an almost musky hint in the length – a wine that should open out more but the base material is super – give it 6-12 months to do that then enjoy!