Tasted in Courgis with Alice de Moor, 31 January 2024.
Alice & Olivier De Moor
4 rue Jacques Ferrand
89800 Courgis
Tel: +33 3 86 41 47 94
www.aetodemoor.fr
More reports with Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor
Alice on 2023:
“yes I’m happy – certainly with the volume! More than half of the wines have finished their fermentations – the wines are delicate right now, much more than was the case in 2022.”
Alice on 2022:
“It was a good vintage – we were a little touched by the frost but in the end, the vines recovered well and we have a good volume – though not to the level of 2018. So not pletoric volumes – average-plus. We had a lot in 2018 but in 2023 we weren’t submerged like was the case in 2018. 2004, 2018 and a little in 2023 delivered really large grapes – but we have good balance for the 22 wines. There are vintages that are complicated but I like the 22s – and I think they are getting better after the bottlings too.”
The wines…
What a great visit – I sometimes use the word ‘quirky’ to describe the wines here as they are so ‘individual’ – but they are also great. Here is one of my domaines of the year!
There are two wines – a rosé and their Montmains that still had some residual sugar – so I didn’t taste them as I’m a bit sensitive to RS:
Date of the plantation. Just a few days in bottle.
Hmm, a breadth of ripe but very fresh fruit – almost a crémant style to the nose. Also that piercing line of energetic flavour – that’s really impressive – but this also cushioned by some oak – different sized barrels, one new. The finish quite creamy – I’d be waiting 3 years for this – potentially a really great wine also but today it’s harder to visualise.
Bottled in September. 13.5°
Different but still vibrant – less aromatic width but just as energetic. Super shape in the mouth – panoramic width, juicy energy, almost some zestiness . A cascade of finishing flavour – Great Chitry.
2022 Bourgogne Blanc Vendangeur Masqué
Masqué is normally for contracts. This from tank for the same reason as the first wine. Half chardonnay from Auxerre and in this year some young-vine Chardonnay from Saone et Loire (Mâconnais)
Totally different again – there’s fine width to this ripe but excitingly fresh fruit. Super scale, the merest suggestion of oak flavour. But energy and fine texture – mouth-watering and moreish. Yes – it’s long too!
2022 Chablis Vendangeur Masqué
‘This in conversion to organic. Relatively young vines – about 20 years old and probably not the best plant material – and it’s quite heavy soil here’
A little softness to this nose – but there’s still width – just a calming of the energy. The palate has all the energy that you wish though – really juicy – another cascade of juicy energy as you head into the finish. Yum!
All with smaller barrel elevage.
Much more higher toned freshness to this nose – that’s a great invitation. Also a wine of such width and vibrant intensity – you can taste the oak today so wait 2-3 years but bravo! Beautifully mineral wine and if you wait long enough there’s salinity too.
A much more saline width of aroma – almost some toasted nuts in here. Hyper cool fruit and wide – another wine of almost panoramic width – but a little more concentration and silk to this texture. Extra citrus in this finish ripe but at the same time incisive. A beauty – and perhaps the longest of all – if not the most powerful finish of this – more than excellent!
2022 Chablis 1er Vau de Vey
1 year in demi-muids, now in tank – it won’t be bottled until September.
A smaller nose – but a pure and concentrated core of fruit with more airy aromatics surrounding. Incisive again, melting with beautifully precise flavour – precision is the word – and then there’s the finishing width to consider. Given the intensity of the previous wines there’s not a big step up to this – except for that precision – beautiful wine – and what a length it sustains!
And by way of a change:
VdF Nuova Descriptio
Sauvignon 50%, chardonnay and about 1/3rd aligoté with skin contact.
A large scale nose with a lot of energy and complexity – some herb and a lot of complex citrus – maybe some skin contact. Like all the wines here of finest scale and almost zesty energy – wow this is complex and deep – small citrus bitters here and there – and a finish that has weight, width and length but is never heavy. I love it!