Tasted with Eléonore Moreau in Poilly-sur-Serein, 31 January 2024.
Domaine Eléonore Moreau
1 Route de Lichères
89310 Poilly-sur-Serein
Tel: +33 3 86 75 94 29
www.chablis-eleonoremoreau.fr
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It’s not intentional that I haven’t recently visited Eléonore – my list of producers to visit just got too large and some slipped off my overly full programme for the time available – I tried to make amends when I visited today!
There is a name-change here for the domaine too as Eléonore’s brother, Baptiste, joined her at the domaine in 2023 “So we changed the name to represent us both – it’s now Domaine des Pérégrins – which retains the link to the cuvée Pérégrinations.”
Eléonore on her recent vintages:
“2023 and 2022 are both good vintages I think – both are a little sunny in style like 2020. We have now a traditional range of wines – machine harvesting, etcetera – and a second range, manual harvested and with longer elevage, some with oak and our natural wine.”
The domaine is also, since the 2022 vintage, certified organic.
The wines…
Shame on me for missing the last couple of vintages – but here you continue to fined, classy, pure, texturally attractive wines – and I love them!
Eléonore is using a mix of DIAM seals for her wines:
2022 Petit Chablis
There are 6 hectares of this. Machine harvested, fermented with a selected yeast then 8 months on lees.
A nose that slowly opens in the glass – plenty of florals. Round, silky, supple but growing with intensity of finely focused citrus – that’s a great finish – just a nose short of a great wine this morning but it has both great texture and really great length.
This bottled in November – the the manual-harvest version
A more direct and mineral nose. Broad and energetic. The structure more visible – what a difference! This more juicy, more zesty more volume – even in the finish – the latter with the more comforting texture. Great PC !
2022 Petit Chablis Pérégrinations
‘This name could indicate a pilgrimage or a journey – but without the religious connotations,’ says Eléonore. A cuvée ‘nature’ – also done in 2020 but not in 21. A single parcel of vines, 10 months elvage and the only added sulfur was just before the bottling and has very low residual sulfur. Fined but not filtered.Wax-topped bottle.
Tighter top notes, a little broader in the base. A modest CO2, nice scale and texture in the mouth and a flavour profile that reminds me of a (very good) crémant. The finish broad and attractive – a very different flavour profile, but one that holds and holds like the previous wines. It’s delicious!
2022 Chablis
‘It’s the traditional cuvée – 18 months elevage – I couldn’t get to the bottles so this a tank sample of the part not yet bottled
This is fresh, airy and pure – it’s a lovely and precise invitation. Really broad, almost panoramic – the texture more silken like the first PC. More linear in the finish holding a beam of beautiful finishing flavour – not hyper-energetic but ultra delicious – Simply an excellent wine – oh and again delicious too!
2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune
‘Yes – it requires a bit of traveling!’ Dessus les Vermots, south-facing ‘and there are whites planted as neighbouring vines.’ Bottling in April. All destemmed.
A forward blast of fruit notes – that’s very perfumed. This sits well on the palate, there’s certainly plenty of acidity – but it brings a juicy intensity and super fun flavour. The last notes show some oak flavour – more Chablis style than Côte d’Or but what a delicious wine. Yum!