Tasted with Elsie Moore in Hurigny, 12 November 2023.
Domaine Héritiers du Comte Lafon
Les Cartelees
4 rue Lamartine
71960 Milly-Lamartine
Tel: +33 3 85 37 78 09
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Elsie on 2023 & 2022:
“In 2023 we had a bit more volume than in 2022 – with some hail and mildew – but in the end they were not as bad as we thought.
“We finished the last of the 2022 bottlings just last week. Finally we have some stock! A lot of malos finished before the sugars so that was complicated! In 2022 we had 45 hl/ha – exactly double 2021! ”
The wines…
Elsie’s first full vintage – well done! So many properly great wines !!
As usual, the wines here are all sealed with DIAM:
2022 Mâcon-Prissé
On the other side of the road from the SV appellation. A single foudre for a single parcel.
A fine, focused fresh width of aroma – a great start. Supple but with energy, really nice texture and slowly mouth-watering – delicious – flavour. That’s super.
Higher altitude vines here, always later harvested.
A more direct nose, a faint suggestion of reduction here. More mobile and energetic over the palate – still juicy, still delicious, just a little fuller and fresher. Gorgeously finishing – just a great and too drinkable bottle!
2022 Mâcon-Uchizy
More saline – more focused too I really like this! Hmm – in the mouth there’s a hint of muscaté but also salinity to add to the complexity – a slightly more generous flavour profile but beautifully textured – one of the best. Broad and absorbing in this delicious finish.
Some heat stress here so picked early to keep a ‘correct’ acidity.
More floral and with fine focus. Super almost fluid style to this wine on the palate. Complex, saline, mouth-watering – I love it – it’s quite coy in the finish but I still find a great wine.
Enough volume to indicate Monsard this year after missing in 21.
Broader, more perfumed – floral aromatic – yes! Really mouth-filling but open – all is visible – quite a mineral accent to these flavours too. So ingraining in the finish – great wine.
Airy, pretty – less demonstrative than the Monsard. Hmm – that’s the wine with the most clarity and minerality so far – clearly my new favourite!
2022 St.Véran
Direct – here’s a lovely small vibration an energy to the aromas. A slight reduction to this – noble, not diam – really clean-cut minerality is the main theme but full of finishing complexity though kept in a narrow finishing line of flavour today. Ever so slowly fading into the distance – excellent wine.
2022 Viré-Clessé
From Viré – from Chateau Viré since 2009. Older vines and plenty of clay here. Try to harvest earlier here. Normally, 10-12 different parcels.
Quite the least communicative wine so far – yet there is some width and clarity – this needs a bit of time to come around. In the mouth that’s not the case! Incisive, almost a hint chalky texture framing the flavour – really vibrant, complex citrus – fading on a more mineral register – this and the last are for keeping – but this is ultra-classy wine with a finish that just keeps rolling along…
2022 Pouilly-Fuissé
In Vergisson, late-harvested here. This just bottled.
Here’s an interesting, almost golden fruit with just a suggestion of noble reduction. Juicy, vibrant, mouth-filling – volume without overt density, another with a faint chalky accent to the texture – slightly more golden fruit and the largest most persistent finish. Super!