Tasted in Marsannay with Pierre Bart, 16 November 2022.
Domaine Bart
23 Rue Moreau
21160 Marsannay-la-Côte
Tel: +33 3 80 51 49 76
More reports with Domaine Bart
Pierre on 2021:
“In 2021 we were lucky that the yield had been reduced because given the weeks and weeks of poor weather that followed the frosts I’m of the impression that the grapes might never have achieved maturity if we’d had 40+ hl/ha on the vines. It’s hard to believe but we have more wine in 2021 than in 2020 – we lost 50% in 21 but 60% in 20! Fortunately, we made the plan in 2022!
“Our Aligoté and Rosé have been bottled but nothing else yet as the malos were a little late here so ‘we took our time.’”
The wines…
As always a classy range at this domaine – many of the early wines were obviously tasted a little early in their elevage – but the quality of the greater wines was already clear to see!
2021 Côteaux Bourguignon
All gamay – ‘probably the oldest vines of the domaine, planted by great grandfather, vinified like pinot’
A breadth of darker red fruit. Incisive, vibrant, a hint of balancing cushioning – little creamy finishing too. That’s a delicious wine!
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or
A little sand in the soil here – a later maturing place, harvested last
A bit of reduction here. Direct and a little structure but very juicy, even a little saline. Easy to drink wine…
2021 Marsannay
From 5 different parcels – also sandy soils for these, Champs Forets the largest, which was raised from regional to villages in 2019.
A deeper and more perfumed nose – there’s more wine here. Direct but silky – a little more generosity here despite equally mouthwatering and intense flavours – really well balanced – excellent!
2021 Marsannay Finottes
This is a 2-hectare monopole of the domaine. A triangle of vines between Longeroies and Echezots that produced only 2 hl/ha in 2016! Sandy and quite deep soil.
A wider, redder nose. Hmm, a calmer wine, still slowly melting – there’s more density and salinity – a little herbed in the middle and finishing flavours. A wine that’s not fully showing today – give it some extra time
2021 Marsannay Ouzeloy
A fairly large area of vines in Ouzeloy, but not that many producers use this label – mainly it’s this domaine and Roty. Quite young vines next to those of the last – perhaps a bit more clay in the soil that helps to hold onto the water
More open and with a more inviting purity of aroma. A touch of reduction but anyway there is fine depth to this wine with a silkiness of texture too.
2021 Marsannay Longeroies
On the bottom of the vineyard, not on the more structured style of the limestone
Beautiful berry fruit here. Extra gas. Darker fruit, really a fine balance of intensity and mouth-watering style. Broad and impressively long finishing.
2021 Marsannay La Montagne
An open yet less overt nose – fine and clean and inviting. More direct, mouth-watering wine with cool fruit and the faintest grain of tannin. Still a little structural today but this is the most perfumed finishing of these.
2021 Marsannay Les Echezots
Always late harvested, vines above Finottes. The domaine’s biggest cuvée with over 2 ha of vines, and in more than one sector, ‘Some parts are easier than others, some parts go into the Bourgogne, sometimes – it works well in a warm vintage though as it’s a cold area and is always last harvested – but has fewer problems with rot because of the breeze that’s always here.’ The stems hardly ripen in this cooler place, so always destemmed.
Deeper, wider, a super nose – it must be grand cru! 😊 The most direct and cool-fruited yet. Again framed with a little tannin – this a juicy wine. Vibrantly finishing quite powerful too – for keeping a little but most of these seem like they need a bit more elevage
2021 Marsannay St.Jacques
Deeper red fruit with a little more aromatic generosity. Open, cool fruit, lovely structure, still faintly tannic the most ‘together’ of all these today, finishing beautifully.
2021 Marsannay Les Grands Vignes
Under Clos de Jeu, shared with Chateau de Marsannay – marne (marl) with oyster shells in the soil.
The largest and most complex of these aromas – a super invitation. Broad, cool, insinuating its flavour with growing intensity – also very ready but in a more intense and direct style.
2021 Marsannay Champs Salamon
A vibration to this nose, maybe a little reductive too. Broad in the mouth – there’s a lot of wine here. Extra flashes of finishing complexity too – that’s an excellent wine!
2021 Marsannay Clos du Roy
A more compact, tighter nose. A different style of structure and tannin – no grain here just a drag to the texture. Perhaps a suggestion of barrel in the finishing flavours.
Two parcels blended.
Ooh – now that open – it welcomes with open arms. Hmm, a little more muscular but still cool – more depth of flavour – that’s a super wine – easily the most ready of all these – bravo!
2021 Fixin 1er Hervelets
This is usually quite a late bottling ‘it always needs more time in elevage.’
The nose has plenty of volume – showing a bit more structurally austere at the moment. Also more structure in the mouth – but architecturally, its shape, not from a tannic perspective. Not quite as ready but almost as good today – this excellent wine has everything.
2021 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles
This stays 4 months longer in elevage – like the grand crus
A creamier width of aroma. Broad and silky, certainly a fine presence here. Broad finishing and holding very, very well. That’s another excellent wine – the last flavour also a little creamy from the barrels…
Vines next to those of de Vogüé in Chambolle – the largest part originally from Clair-Daü, plus 0.12 hectares via Safer from a cousin – ‘That was the sole sale at a proper price in the last 15 years!’ The terroir is mainly terres rouges and contains some of the oldest vines of the domaine – ‘40% of which are more than 100 years old and are used for the massale selections of the domaine.’
Not the largest nose but a vibrant and complex one – yes! Larger scale, more power and depth to this flavour. This is a beauty – great flavour that’s holding tenaciously. At least excellent, possibly more to come…
This nose more airy with a super width – more subtly complex after the BM. Sleek, direct and beautifully textured – growing in stature in the middle flavour – actually a little more visible structure and chalkiness vs the BM too – at least equally long but with a very different shape – I actually don’t know which I prefer despite their differences.
Les whites
Racked but neither fined nor filtered:
2021 Marsannay Favières Blanc
A larger nose, very different but still ripe citrus – it’s muscaté – planted by great grandfather about 30% of the vines have been replaced by more ‘normal’ chardonnay. But direct finely shaped and quite vibrantly flavoured in the finish.
2021 Marsannay Les Etalles Blanc
Planted in 2016 so 4th vintage from the young vines. Demi-muids and then 4 months in tank
Much more open and airy – fresher citrus notes for this. Broader and more structured but not with rigour. A generosity to these middle flavours and a fresh, clean finish. Delicious!