Tasted in Premeaux with Géraldine Godot, 16 November 2022.
Domaine de L’Arlot
Premeaux
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 61 01 92
www.arlot.com
More reports with Domaine de l’Arlot
Géraldine on 2022:
“Who wouldn’t be happy with 22? The quantity was good and so was the quality. We achieved practically all our targets and hope it won’t be the last time! Of course, we flirted with the frost and experienced the dryness of the summer but we really have the impression that the vines are adapting to this. The weather was that of a solar vintage – like 2020 – but the wines really don’t resemble each other – in fact we think them almost closer to 21 in terms of texture they have a ‘modest’ 13° – we can almost say classic – despite very different weather. ”
Géraldine on 2021:
“Actually a very good surprise considering the weather – 65% losses in chardonnay – fortunately ‘only’ 15-20% losses in the pinot – of course due to the frost. We had a little botrytis but that was triaged and in the end, it’s the style of classic burgundies rather than some of the excesses of exuberance of recent vintages. They are just very classy. 2017 with a bit more construction. The 20s are almost tiring to taste today by comparison. I chose to destem and did practically no pigeage.”
The wines…
Despite the lack of stems in this vintage, such a great result – perhaps one of my favourite ranges in the Côte de Nuits in 2021 – bravo!
The same parcel as for the whites. Young vines, not much more than 10 years old – but that’s older than the HCDN blanc. This a tank sample to be bottled at the end of this month
A depth of vibrancy and a faint suggestion of reduction. Slightly darker red fruit. Supple, with a little depth to its texture in the middle – hmm – that’s a wine with some delicious generosity – slightly menthol finishing too – that’s god a great finish – a top Bourgogne!
A 1.6 hectare plot in Comblanchien.
Broader, equally deep aromas – despite reduction being less visible here – adding some floral accents too. More direct, sleek wine – fine texture, long and creamy finishing – a great finish. Simply an excellent wine, potentially a great villages as this finish just holds and holds.
The following all tasted from barrel samples:
2021 Nuits St.Georges 1er ‘Mont des Oiseau’
Middle of Clos Forets but young vines of 10-15 years old.
Also a depth of aroma with a faintly reductive lilt but round and inviting too. Cool, fresh fruit width – silky like the last but shaped very differently. Supple and generous in the middle – super tannins that have a creamy style in this vintage. A beauty.
The vines now average over 70 years – marl is a characteristic of the clos.
Redder and more floral – that’s a beautifully perfumed invitation. Gorgeous, fluid, melting, cool fruit. Just a beautiful, exquisite thing. Only the finish has the faintest of dryer tannin (invisible grained) that suggests waiting – and I could happily ignore that – bravo!
2021 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
From 0.85 hectares at the border of Richebourg, vines planted in 45, 50 and 87.
A different, more open style of aroma – still red fruit but with extra transparency. The family resemblance is in the flavours – medium weight, certainly silky, with a little extra sweetness to the finishing flavours that are broader finishing and a little more structural if not more tannic – mineral at the last – a compelling wine!
A relatively massive vineyard monopoly of 7.2 hectares – it’s half of the domaine – with three distinct soil types, all harvested and vinified separately.
More colour vs the Suchots. Hmm – yes – deeper, a little more lithe muscle to these aromas. Super silky again, perhaps as the tannin becomes visible, more velour textured. Extra intensity and complexity in this finish – more power and certainly a wine that you can keep – great wine for the medium-plus term.
2021 Romanée Saint-Vivant
From 24 rows of vines that face Romanée-Conti and run only half-way to the village.
Less forward top notes – but those that you can find, sparkle with interest – deeper though and with time these top notes are augmented with more and more floral perfume. Beautifully fluid flavour over the palate – really special how this engaging complexity presents itself despite showing less overt power than the Forets – super complex, super long – ravishing wine!
Les Blancs
Both in tank, also for bottling from the end of this month:
From just above the Clos des Forêts.
Hmm – now that’s not a very powerful nose but it’s a very fine and engaging one! Slightly structural but not with any rigour – this is just a beautifully shaped wine of clarity and without fault – easy but fine and complex. Simply excellent wine – and great Bourgogne!
Actually a mix of La Gerbotte and others in the Clos l’Arlot – Gerbotte being the coolest location – temperature-wise!
This nose is more direct – riper yellow citrus in play here. Ultra silky, with a very mineral width. Before growing in fine citrus intensity – a wine that creeps up on you – but holds in subtle fashion. Always a cuvée that expresses itself the best after about 10 years but this is already more than drinkable – a beautiful wine today but for the full ‘Arlot effect’ keep your patience. Bravo!