Tasted with Jean-François Bordet in Maligny, 05 January 2022.
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
8 Chemin des Hâtes
89800 Maligny
Tel: +33 6 45 47 44 42
www.seguinot-bordet.fr
More reports with Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
Jean-François on 2021:
“It’s been complicated because we’ve practically sold everything already. With aspersion and candles we protected the vines quite well so whilst we have a small vintage in – 30 hl/ha – we know have more than in many other places. It will be 18 months before we can have an improvement in the level of stocks and that will need another larger volume vintage, like 2018, to ease things.”
Generally, here in Maligny, the growers are coming together with a plane to cover significant parts of their vines with trace-heating cables to protect against the frost. Of course, this is expensive but far more environmentally friendly than the pollution of ‘candles’ and they have no adequate sources of water to consider the installation of aspersion systems. Together with other actions they aim to protect 95% of the vines in Maligny. This sounds like the future…
Jean-François on 2020:
“A vintage where we lit the candles at least 10 times but suffered not much in the way of damage. I think it’s a vintage with more freshness than 2019 – I put it together with 14 and 12 as a great vintage for here. There’s freshness but also a bit more sun in 2019 – like 15. And here in Maligny we made our rendement (volumes) – we had 40mm early in August and that made the difference. We started harvesting here 1st September.”
The wines…
Another great result chez Jean-François – as consistent as in 2019 but with more classic style – in-line with the vintage. Some great wines…
All 20s are in bottle, the last were done in December:
2020 Petit Chablis
Plateau in Maligny is all clay, almost no stones – this brings a floral, just some large stones – indistinguishable from the grand cru rock. This with screw-cap – also plenty screwcaps for villages Chablis. There’s DIAM-style seals and screw-caps for this wine
That’s a fine nose – complex and attractive. Wide, mobile, complex flavours with fine energy. That’s excellent and with a great finish – mineral, complex, tasty wine…
2020 Chablis
Here from Maligny, there are some parts with clay but mainly it is more stony ground. ‘Maligny does have a certain roundness though.’ Tasted from screw-cap and cork
More saline and iodé (the seashore). Bigger a little richer, full of energy, depth of flavour. Vibrant, long and mineral – that’s a really super wine.
Three parcels with vine ages of 112, 84, and 55-60, all worked by horse for 3 years now. Just under 10% 500-barrel elevage – bottled in July
That’s quite direct and saline. Hmm, melting deliciously over the palate – a really impressive blend of complexity and intensity. Great wine. Wait for this but you won’t be disappointed if you’ve nothing else to open!
2020 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Today this is 100% from Homme Mort, 55-year-old vines. This a natural cork – there are DIAMs too
This is deep and fine if a little narrow aroma. Wide, cool fruited – there’s both power and elegance here. This is another super wine of energy and agrume complexity. Probably better than excellent!
From bought grapes – labelled Jean-Francois Bordet. This with DIAM10
A similar nose – very attractive. Hmm – the structure is more evident here – but so mouth-watering – juicily clean and pure. Wait for a little but bravo!
2020 Chablis Les Preuses
Old wooden tank – 2005 – so ‘no wood.’
Almost a little metallic – but attractively so – it’s not a red but this note makes me think of blood – aha – blood-orange is what I’m looking for! This rolls wonderfully well over and around the tongue – beautifully textured and with a classic depth of finishing Preuses flavour elegance. You should wait at least 5 years for this one, maybe a bit more for the full effect. But it’s clearly already delicious.
A couple of demi-muids used for this.
A different style of complexity – wider citrus. Here there’s a bit more structure and faint tannin showing. Ooh – that’s so energetic and fun today. Hyper-complex, hyper-engaging. I could (would!) happily drink this now. Simply excellent, potentially great wine.
For the road:
We finished with a 2003 and a 2002 – whilst I preferred the 02 the 03 was a surprisingly delicious and balanced wine – kept energetic by its fine minerality in the absence of great acidity…