Tasted in Fontenay-Près-Chablis with Marion Mothe, 11 January 2022.
Domaine du Colombier
42 Grand Rue
Fontenay-Près-Chablis, 89800
Tel: +33 3 86 42 15 04
www.chabliscolombier.com
More reports with Domaine du Colombier
Marion on 2021:
“Yes, it’s about a third.”
Marion on 2020:
“This was a proper volume not more or less than normal. 2019 was a warmer vintage, with more alcohol but we find a vintage that’s more classic with the 2020s – they are more alive… It’s just the last bottling of the Chablis that’s being done in the courtyard today.”
The wines…
Vaucoupin is usually my favourite at this domaine and so it was this vintage too – it’s a really excellent wine – but in 2020 the Fourchaume is also at the same level.
DIAM across the range – DIAM3 for the ‘smaller’ wines, DIAM5 for the mid-range and DIAM10 for the grand cru. Thierry says he’s “Very happy with the way the DIAM is going – I see proper ageing, not ageing by oxidation! Everything was bottled here.“
2020 Petit Chablis
The produce of multiple parcels – Vines from Chichée and Fontenay. ‘We will probably start commercializing the 2021 of this in 2-3 months!’
This is really a nose of the seashore. Hmm – there’s a little green in the middle of this but the shape and melting flavour are lovely here – a certain lime-aspect. Long finishing – zesty finishing – lots to like here…
2020 Chablis
40 hectares worth that needs 5-6 bottlings. Normally a blend of left plus right bank vines plus old and young vines. Fontenay bringing older vines and Chichée younger vines which bring energy all left bank.
A little more direct and mineral. The same in the mouth – structural just a bit austere today – but keep this back for 18-24 months and you will be fine – good wine.
2020 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
Normally from 3 small parcels – 2 ha worth in Chichée, more clay here that adds to the fruit and flowers, whereas Fourchaume is more limestone, ‘More alive, more dry, more reflective.’
Ooh – yes! That’s a nicely direct nose and it’s a beauty. Faintly reductive, lots of minerality – so mouth-watering it’s almost juicy – that’s excellent wine!
2020 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
From 4 hectares of vines.
More airy, more floral – less obvious depth – actually very attractive. Much more width of flavour over the palate, melting, satisfying – that’s a beauty! Vibrant finishing with some citrus skin complexity…
2020 Chablis Bougros
1.2 hectares in 3 parcels in the middle of William Fevre’s vines, including some old vines. No frost protection here.
This is a faintly spiced oak but only that – maybe a little rounding of the style too. It’s about 20% barrel elevage here. A touch of smoke to add to the spice but here is width and a beautiful texture, the salinity is overt with this one too. That is a very good grand cru.