Tasted in Poinchy with Isabelle & Denis Pommier, 25 January 2022.
Domaine Isabelle & Denis Pommier
31 Rue de Poinchy
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 83 04
www.denis-pommier.com
More reports with Domaine I&D Pommier
Denis on the 2021 vintage:
“We made 25 hl/ha – which isn’t much but it’s still more than we made in 2017…”
Denis on the 2020 vintage:
“2020 was about 40 hl/ha here, so it’s also not a big vintage. It’s a bit early for me to say if its better or not than 2019 – I think it’s too early to say – I like the finishing salinity of the 19s I don’t always see that in the 20s. Yet, with the elevage and the colder winter months, there’s a strict, saline style coming through that we didn’t have a month or two ago”
The wines…
The whites are sleek, sweeping wines of minerality and purity. I’m happy to see a couple of reds that are completely free of the greens too – at least for me today…
Use DIAM here, except the pinot which is cork. The first two are bottled:
2020 Petit Chablis Hautérivien
From the commune of Villy in the main.
That’s a nice agrume nose, yellow fruited. Plenty of concentration – there’s some richness here – but it’s mineral and mouth-watering too. Vibrant finishing too – oh this is very good…
2020 Chablis
About half is Portlandian, vinified in tank just like the PC
A little more freshly mineral but also a little less open nose than the PC. Direct, mineral, beautifully mouth-watering with a small frame of phenolic texture – I love the growing intensity here too, the slightly strict nature and citrus-skins in the finish. That’s excellent…
Now tank samples:
2020 Chablis Les Reinettes
30-year-old vines on Kimmerigian
Narrower, very mineral, not fully open. A bit more gas but also with more floral energy that brings width. Again a nicely citrus skin finish. The previous wine is more ‘together’ today but the various parts of this suggest that it could be even better when it all knits…
Over 55-year-old vines a massale selection with 25% seeing barrel elevage.
That’s much more open, showing a little, attractive, noble reduction too. Wide, intense, super minerlaity – the slightly strict style again but that’s really got tons of potential – bravo!
2020 Chablis 1er Troismes
Prior to 2016 the domaine labelled this as Beauroy
Again a nose with minerality to the fore and here with a hint of reduction. Wide and strict again – a vibrant, almost dynamic style to this wine. Impressive but it says keep me in the cellar – I’d be waiting at least a couple of years.
20% barrel elevage – but I don’t note it…
Also a little reductive from the tanks. Super again – this time with the energy (again) but also a slightly higher level of juiciness. Clean citrus acidity slicing through the finishing flavour. This could be great!
2020 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Again reductive but a more ‘noble’ reduction – it’s very attractive. Super open, with a rather fluid delivery of flavour. A little extra acidity showing today – wait for this to calm – if it calms we will have a great wine here… A smaller finish but persistent with a extra florals…
2020 Pinot Beurot
Bought grapes but harvested by this domaine – vines in Joigny – ‘We’ve made this since 2017 as that year we had such a reduced volume due to frost. Vinfied in tank but elevage in barrel.’
Wider with a touch of menthol. Reallöy mouth-filling but with impressively growing intensity narrowing quickly but holding a long if subtle finish.
Did someone say pinot?
2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
A plain-south-facing hillside towards Auxerre. All barrel elevage, some new but mainly older
That’s a lovely nose – very pure and perfumed. Mouth-filling – there’s sweetness and energy here – simply a lovely wine. A little structural shape and tannin suggesting waiting 2-3 years but this is fine and juicy pure pinot – it’s delicious!
2020 Irancy
Various parcels assembled. A fine and pure red fruit – nothing green. More power, more kirsch, more mouth-filling – again more structure – you should wait a little longer for this one.