des Hâtes – 2020


Pierrick Laroche 2022 Domaine des HâtesTasted in Maligny with Pierrick Laroche, 05 January 2022.

Domaine Des Hâtes
5 Chemin des Hâtes
89800 Maligny
Tel: +33 6 73 67 33 47
More reports with Domaine des Hâtes

Pierrick on 2021:
2021 was better than both 2016 and 2017 but it was still half a harvest. The stock situation is very low – we had lots of great orders but pretty much all is reserved now – our stock too. So a bit more volume in 22 would definitely be appreciated. 2019 and 2020 were okay volumes – lower than 18 for sure but we are less well prepared after 2021. The wines started a bit meagre but now resemble 2017…

Pierrick on 2020:
2020 is a nice vintage with a proper production volume too – 55 hl/ha. It was an early vintage but with properly ripe grapes, we started harvesting 25-26 August – in 2003 my dad started 31st August – but I want to keep the acidity so didn’t wait. But you still had to take care; you could bring in grapes at 13-13.5 that weren’t really ripe the pips were green and astringent – compare that to the 21s where even with 11.5° and needing some chaptalisation they had properly ripe and brown pips and skins… I still find a style that resembles 2019.

The wines…

A great range, nothing herbal or green – starting with a certain austerity in the first wines – no bad thing – and then delicious wine after delicious wine – properly complex and pure. An address to search out!

Started with some screw-caps for export – depending on the client – the rest of the range is with DIAM. Apparently, Pierrick’s customers appreciate these screwcaps and the volume is already interesting – nearly 25% of his export. The last bottling of Chablis – done in three hits – was in December. The Petit Chablis was done in July. The 1ers and GCs in December – except Homme Mort and Chablis Chatillons (normally as there’s none in 2020) which will be in tank until the Springtime:

2020 Petit Chablis
Only Maligny – 2 terroirs – a plateau that has a lot of clay – like in Lignorelles – plus limestone slopes, south, south-east-facing – here it’s more mineral. But the parcels are quite close to each other. About 20-year-old vines
That’s an easy and welcoming nose. Direct, properly mineral – finishing a little vibrant and wide. Structured, you should wait a bit, but this is very good.

2020 Chablis
Also only from Maligny here – the Courgis part has longer elevage as there is a little austerity. This is the December bottling
That’s a good width of open aroma – green-citrus style. This has more width and vibrant concentration – properly mineral and structured like the PC – a super and quite vibrant finish – like the PC for waiting a while but this is excellent.

2020 Chablis 1er Vau de Vey
This from a contract – the same vigneron each year, in must. A large part in large-format barrels – but all barrel elevage.
That’s fresh and floral – less width but with attractive intensity. Unlike the nose, the flavour profile is a little warmer and rounder but also very tasty. This is completely delicious and has a fine mineral finish. This is clearly excellent wine.

2020 Chablis 1er Butteaux
Second vintage. This a domaine wine, also all barrel more than half in large formats. A small volume from these vines as there’s plenty of court-noué – about 40 hl/ha. Had this since 2019 from an uncle – nearly 3 hectares extra. This is the first part of Butteaux as you leave Chablis next to Forets…
This has a width that implies a finer texture, faintly warmer-spiced. Hmm – this is mouth-filling, generous, wine – but with clarity and a finely mobile flavour. The oak is modifying the flavour to an extent so give this a couple of years in the cellar before attacking – so despite how delicious ut already is – this could become an even greater wine.
2020 Chablis 1er Fourchaume L’Homme Mort
Tank sample – ‘brut’: A mix of tank and barrel – 60% tank, a bit younger wood used for this cuvée.
This is a very open and airy nose – a faint spice but it’s more about the florals today. Ooh – that’s so mineral and vibrantly flavoured – practically dynamic – but there’s a bit of gas in this that helps that impression. But this is directly a great wine – a notch above the Butteaux today – love it!
2020 Chablis Bougros
Another small cuvée. Also a purchase in must, the same producer as each year.
That’s a beautiful floral nose – I don’t note the barrel elevage – a single 500-litre barrel. Mouth-filling, silky, concentrated but perfectly energetic wine. Gorgeous finishing flavours of concentrated agrume. Really a generous but beautifully balanced and pure flavour profile. Bravo!

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