Tasted with Louis Poitout in Chablis, 25 January 2022
Domaine L&C Poitout
3 rue du Serein
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 9 79 61 62 16
www.lc-poitout.fr
More reports with L&C Poitout
Louis on 2021:
“2021 it’s the smallest vintage we’ve had here – certainly less than in 2016 or 2017 – so now we’ve had three consecutive small vintages.”
Louis on 2020:
“2020, like in 2019, we had a lot of grilled grapes which cost us – so it still wasn’t a proper volume here. At least we didn’t have much in the way of frost in the vintage.”
The wines…
Concentrated wines – really showcasing the citrus bitters today – impressively so – sometimes great!
DIAM-style for most wines but not the 1ers, which use cork. All the wines bottled:
2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Vines in Tonnerre but forgot to declare as such – has the labels but the wrong ones so Bourgogne Tonnerre in 2021.
Fresh wide – good interest here. A suggestion of green but a good mouthful of complex flavour here – some nice finishing bitters. Long. Very tasty wine.
Over 6 hectares of PC at the domaine in two parcels. Mainly planted 1988-89. No wood, no batonnage.
Similar to the last nose except wider and and with a alittle extra complexity. More direct, silky, ooh lovely alive – that’s got a lovely fluid style – it’s a great PC!
2020 Chablis Bienommé
From Villy, but the Chablis parcels of the domaine extend to 10 hectares – the soil, planting date and age of vines is exactly the same as the next wine but the exposure to the sun is different. This east-facing.
More citrus complexity to this nose. Direct, lots of bitters, growing wider, slightly phenolic. Really a deep middle and finishing flavour – green-citrus but not green. That’s excellent
2020 Chablis Bonaugure
From Maligny, planted between 1989 and 1991.
Wider, more elegant yellow-citrus on this still complex and now, slightly saline and floral, nose. More relaxed, more depth – extra salinity. Lovely elegant yellow citrus finishing. Chalk and cheese these two wines. Excellent wine!
This the domaine’s old-vine parcel – the youngest part is 40 years-old – the rest with plantation dates between 1946 and 1960
A narrower but deeper and silkier impression to this nose. Mouth-filling, complex, a richness of texture and depth of flavour but always well-balanced. Persistent and fine – such impressive length. This is super again.
2020 Chablis 1er Fourneaux Opallion
Hmm – supple, wide, silky golden fruit – there’s a certain aromatic elegance here. Wide. Silky, pure, growing in salinity, a suggestion of reduction – frankly there is everything here. I’d like a bit more fluidity but there is enough energy and massively impressive complexity – easily excellent!
There’s a little extra lift to the aroma here – very lovely – still yellow-citrus in style. Easy entry – here is the fluidity that I didn’t see in the last – open, mobile, less overtly complex but a bit more involving today. Great wine.
2020 l’Inexstinct
Age unknown – potentially oldest vines in Chablis as there is no graft / franc de pied – ‘tastes different so decided on VdF’ a 0.55 ha parcel near Villy.
A little more musky depth of aroma. Very silky, growing wider over the palate – a wine that becomes broader and broader. Extra-silky. Faintly reductive, slowly mineral finishing – quite primary – I don’t see the same complexity as the previous wines today but I find an extra textural sophistication.
And as we are here:
2019 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin Stellaris
Wow – now that’s not just a big nose it’s a very deep nose too – very complex – certainly a lot of riper fruit included in that. Big in the mouth – a bit ripe in style for me, yet, here is balance, energy and like many here – really a super complexity but quite an exotic ripeness here.
Hmm – calmer, narrower but deeper – that’s already talking to me. Supple, direct, there’s concentration and a small grain of tannin. Contemplative with a big C – that’s a great wine…
Le Red:
2020 Bourgogne Vindemiola
Pinot noir from Tonnerre. The parcel next to their Bourgogne Chardonnay. Stainless steel elevage except finishing in old ‘white’ barrels.
A hint of green but only an accent to the rounder, redder fruit aromas. Supple, nicely textured, juicy. That’s a lovely and quite refreshing wine – and it finishes with style – that’s really super.