Tasted in Courgis with Alice and Olivier de Moor, 12 January 2022.
Alice & Olivier De Moor
4 rue Jacques Ferrand
89800 Courgis
Tel: +33 3 86 41 47 94
www.aetodemoor.fr
More reports with Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor
Alice on 2021:
“How bad depends on the place or the viewpoint – certainly it was a complicated year we had a bit less than in 2016 where I had almost nothing to harvest. We managed about 25 hl/ha so close to half a harvest. I didn’t think the grapes looked that great but the wines are really surprising – a bit lighter but attractive.”
Alice on 2020:
“2020 was also a bit lower in volume”
The wines…
This domaine always has its own style – but I love it. Great 2020s – and it’s not the first time I’ve bought wines from here!
2020 Bourgogne Aligoté
Mid-December bottling – all the aligotés saw some wood in this vintage – I’ve now got the spae! The aligotés did really well in 2020 – over 13° We started our domaine harvest 1st September and did some négoce vineyards in August
A cushioned nose of round, golden fruit. There’s energy, a small bead of gas and a slightly appley style but it’s completely delicious and beautifully balanced. Opening out very well in the finish.
Barrel elevage – some ‘new’ two-year-old barrel form the Côte d’Or.
Depth and high tones – here – that’s very attractive, almost a little apricot tart fruit in here. Mouth-filling, lovely energy with an incisive but never hard energy – faintly cushioned by the barrel – this is delicious, faintly tannic in the finish! Bravo!
2020 Chablis du Vendangeur Masqué
Masqué is normally for contracts, but this is actually two (newish, 2016 and 2018) domaine vines that are in conversion to bio. Bottled in December – a new label for this, this year. Vines in conversion to organic…
Tighter higher tones but still good aromatic depth. Extra energy and open mineral freshness – we are in Chablis! This is so mouth-watering, almost juicy flavoured. Delicious, excellent wine finishing with a vibrancy of flavour!
To be bottled soon – the end of Feb:
2020 Chablis l’Humeur du Temp
Multiple parcels, many very small – there are over 10.
Open, airy, a touch of extra sweetness. A little more mouth-filling – an extra level of clarity and this time it’s properly juicy. Really a vibrancy of finishing flavour in the house style – that’s going to be an excellent bottle!
Two foudres
Lots of freshness, wider, very faintly oaked. Ooh here’s a more direct intensity – this is a great wine – so mouth-watering, and mouth-filling I don’t want to swallow – or spit I just want to keep it in my mouth!
In elevage, it won’t still be bottled for another 7-8 months
A fine but compact nose – faintly spiced, yellow fruit freshness. Again here’s a super intensity of flavour – so juicy and impressive – there are waves of flavour here. This is super-delicious again and just as good as the last wine.
Bottled now – done just before the harvest…
Mineral and vibrant aromas. Extra width – extra energy – clarity, golden fruit – super wine again. It’s the finish that really distinguishes the wines too – extra persistent and wide. Bravo 2019…
‘A vineyard rented since the end of 2016, 90 years old vines, a vineyard that was already organic. The owner was ill and couldn’t work the vines. Soil is very different here – it could be from a garden, brown soil, marne – we have a horse that does the ploughing. Was racked in August. Third vintage for this wine still working on the length of time in barrel – ‘I’m slowly reducing that so I don’t get the sense of quicker aging.’
An even more impressive nose – I’m simply loving these wines – this the most perfumed of all. Great structure, nothing hard – a little rigour but in a good way. Very persistent. Top and for keeping a little while.
Wider, easier – but of course with plenty more elevage to fulfil. Fuller, more generous but growing with a large wave of ever-more intense flavour. Great finishing – really great…
New labels for the 1er crus – are those tall trees or are they extra-high-trained vines…? Ths half barrel and half jar elevage
Flashes of fresh fruit but not a fully open nose. A little richness like the 20 Vau de Vey – but sweeping flavours here – a similarly growing wave of fine flavour that fills the mouth. It’s the finishing intensity of these wines that is just so captivating – I love them!
2020 Sauvignon Blanc
A bit of gris in this too – about 10% – planted in the 1950s – have been working the plot since the 80s and there were some missing vines so they have replaced those over time with gris.
Another world – very perfumed but still with fine freshness (unlike, for me, Rhone whites). Extra sweetness – a bit too much more me (there are 15 grams residual sugar) – but the finish is lovely it’s really mouth-watering and very tasty.