Entries from 2021

offer of the day – louis jadot 2020

By billn on December 30, 2021 #the market

DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT 2020

As always, from my local, Swiss merchant. The 2019s, 2018, 2017, 2016 and 2015 offer prices follow in the brackets to compare, and — means not offered…

LES REDS
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2020 75cl 64.00* (59.00, 64.00, 59.00, 59.00, 55.00) *(Swiss Francs)
Beaune Clos des Ursules Monopole 1er Cru 2020 150cl 133.00 (123.00, 133.00, 123.00)

Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2020 75cl 89.00 (85.00, 85.00, 79.50, 79.50, 79.00)
Corton Grèves Grand Cru 2020 150cl 183.00 (175.00, 175.00, 164.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2020 75cl 89.00 (85.00, 85.00, 79.50, 79.50, 79.00)
Corton Pougets Grand Cru 2020 150cl 183.00 (175.00, 175.00, 164.00)

Chambolle-Musigny Fuées 1er Cru 2020 75cl — (89.00, 89.00, 85.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Baudes 1er Cru 2020 75cl — (89.00, 89.00, 85.00)

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 2020 75cl 175.00 (149.00, 155.00, 149.00, 145.00, 138.00)

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2020 75cl 149.00 (—, 149.00, 139.00, 138.00, 128.00)
Echézeaux Grand Cru 2020 75cl — (—, 209.00, 159.00)

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2020 75cl 229.00 (209.00, 209.00, —, 188.00, 169.00)
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2020 75cl 295.00 (288.00, 288.00, —, 269.00, 259.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2020 75cl 369.00 (328.00, 328.00, —)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2020 75cl 369.00 (349.00, 349.00, 339.00)
Musigny Grand Cru 2020 75cl 895.00 (798.00, 798.00, 795.00)

LES BLANCS
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru 2020 75cl 96.00 (85.00, 89.00, 89.00, 89.00, 88.00)
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2020 75cl 184.00 (165.00, 158.00, 148.00, 139.50, 119.00)
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020 75cl 359.00 (318.00, 298.00, 285.00)
Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru 2020 75cl 448.00 (389.00, 376.00, 348.00)
Montrachet Grand Cru 2020 75cl 649.00 (559.00, 549.00, —, 499.00, 428.00)

*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…
Increases a little higher for the whites – but these are the aspirational bottles. Versus the similar reds, the increases are comparable – so they are not obviously trying to soften the blow for the 2021 prices – it’s just business!

a few festive wines – so far…

By billn on December 29, 2021 #degustation

Beaune 14 December 2021

Just from memory:
2019 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett
The name longer than the note! Low alcohol, sweet but so moreish – delicious wine…
2018 Laurent Martray, Brouilly Corentin
This is why I love this producer – so involving, beautiful fruit and suddenly the bottle is empty!
2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Ooh – aromas and flavours almost so great – there’s just something in the background – brett? I think not as the wine gets better and better over three days and brett usually gets worse. Strange but still 90% of a great wine.
2019 Stéphanie Colinot, Irancy Les Cailles
Deeply coloured. What a nose of cassis! The palate powerful, concentrated – a fraternal friend of the Laurent Martray. A great, great Irancy!
1993 François Jobard, Meursault 1er Poruzots
Wow! A zing, a line of intensity – mineral and acid. More than a certain austerity! This wine needed air – 6 hours later it’s another wine – broad, concentrated yellow citrus and it’s a beauty – certainly stricter than the 93 Meursault-Charmes of a couple of years ago but a great wine!
1993 Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
Direct, very earthy, Vibrant energy – and acidity. Completely stable in this style. Honestly, considering the trilogy of place, maker and vintage a bit of a disappointment.
Thillardon, Pet Nat
Almost pink. Lightly petillant. Hmm, I like – it’s not sweet, like many a pet-nat, and leaves me with the impression of a cider. I found it very tasty – a winner!
1999 Vincent Girardin, Chambertin Clos de Bèze
I bought 2 bottles a long time ago – the first was far too oaky – not my thing. Here we are 20 years later. Actually, there’s still quite a bit of coconut oak – in fact generally too much for me – but here is a wine of proper grand cru depth, energy and flavour complexity. They spoiled it to an extent but it was still good enough that every drop was drunk!

Of course, we are not yet done – enjoy your bottles too!

The 2020 white burgundy report (part 2) now online

By billn on December 23, 2021 #reports

Beautiful 2020 Corton-CharlemagneBeautiful 2020 Corton-Charlemagne…

Just a heads-up to let you know that this report is now online.

Together with part one which covered domaines from the Mâconnais to Bouzeron, that’s now 61 white (mainly) domaines published. Last year at this time I’d managed a dozen more but that was with an extra month of visiting time to play with – as the harvest was so early in 2020 – no such luxury this year!

Okay, onwards with the reds – probably not online before the 10th of January – but let’s see!

Enjoy.

Well, it was too quiet today – 2021 part 2

By billn on December 16, 2021 #the market#vines for sale

Savigny Vergelesses looking towards Corton
Savigny Vergelesses today, looking towards Corton

I got quite a mailbag when I made my first post of (semi) unsubstantiated rumours and the peddling of idle chit-chat, so thought I’d update you on some of those, and add a few more, to finish this difficult viticultural year. Most of these deals are already done:

  • Domaine Lamarche / Comte Liger-Belair: From my last post, my highest category of ‘unconfirmed rumour’ has now, in part been confirmed: The ‘not La Grand Rue’ vines of Domaine Lamarche are with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair from the start of 2022. As for the purported €800 million transaction – well, all has gone quiet on that one – for now 🙂
  • Domaine Bernard Moreau / Domaine Benoit Moreau: I previously mentioned this split and whilst it is not ‘officially, official’ it seems that it is, official! I recently tasted with Benoit in his new cuverie. He got started with some 2020s that were contract purchases from friends – I tasted those – but his 2021s are in elevage and these are his first parcels from the family domaine with more to come. With a friend from Burgundy, he’s also invested in some parcels of Beaujolais which they are working biodynamically – a mix of Morgon and Chiroubles.
  • Domaine des Varoilles: Subscribers will already have seen my recent report on this domaine, newly named Domaine du Couvent. For those not in that loop, following the retirement of the Swiss part of the Varoilles ownership, it’s the Chéron family of Nuits St.Georges who has full control of the domaine which has been rolled into their own personal holdings – but one thing is missing, as you may have noted from the name-change. The Chérons decided that a 6-hectare monopole – even one that is a Gevrey 1er cru – would be too much for them to commercialise, so they have placed it with another domaine en-fermage. And which domaine I hear you ask(?) Domaine Prieuré-Roch – making that their third monopole, along with their Nuits Clos des Corvées and their Vosne Clos Goillotte.
  • Domaine des Chézeaux: Here’s a transaction that’s still under negotiation, so I won’t give you all the names just now; but given the death of the owner of all the des Chézeaux estate, the wider Mercier family have now decided to sell their holdings. They actually made no wine themselves but with 70% ownership of Griotte-Chambertin, plus Clos St.Denis, Chambertin, Chambolle-Charmes, Gevrey’s Lavaux and Cazetiers 1er crus plus plenty of villages Gevrey-Chambertin you can easily imagine a sale price in excess of 30 million – and I could be massively underplaying the final number! It seems that the proprietor of a well-known Côte de Nuits domaine (let’s call them A-b-C) has got an investor or two who will pay the asking price – which sounds like curtains for the existing metayeurs – let’s see. Interestingly, I actually got the name of the purchasing domaine when in conversation with someone in the London wine trade who began with ‘Did you hear that…?‘ – it seems that there are ‘leaks’ everywhere…
  • Lastly for today, Domaine Clos des Lambrays: have an additional 1.6 hectares of vines this year in the form of Vosne Romanée 1er Cru les Beaux Monts (0.45 ha), Nuits 1er Cru La Richemone (0.89 ha), Nuits 1er Cru Les Murgers (0.18 ha) and Nuits 1er Cru Les Cras (0.08 ha), bringing the domaine to 13.26 hectares of vines. The mention of La Richmone started the cogs whirring in my brain and after a little checking, it seems that these vines were previously leased to Domaine Perrot-Minot. So that will have been a sad loss for the other Morey domaine, though the produce of these vines will have only moved to a (new) cuverie about 50 metres from that of Perrot-Minot! Of course, Domaine des Lambrays (LVMH!) is not yet done; they are also owners of 0.52 ha parcel of Ruchottes-Chambertin which is currently rented to another producer. This officially comes back to the Lambrays domaine in 2031. I can only conjecture who is exploiting such a large parcel of Ruchottes – the vineyard is not much more than 3 hectares in total. Perhaps Fred Esmonin?

Anyway, enjoy…

a midweek two from ‘the north’

By billn on December 15, 2021 #degustation

two from the north!

2020 Samuel Billaud, Chablis Vaudésir
An early idea of what to expect in January when I visit Chablis…
That’s a crystalline yet deep nose – a great start. Fine shape in the mouth – the texture is lovely. An almost unctuous depth of slightly exotic fruit but this is completely moreish wine and beautifully poised. There’s ‘tension.’ Really super!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Les Pinots Blacks, Irancy Vallée de Coigny
This starts a little cold and tight but as the wine warms in the glass, the perfumed aromas of whole clusters and flowers start to broaden. Beautifully perfumed flavours too – just a small, inconsequential rumble of tannin – an anecdote – but here is the classiest Irancy you can think of drinking. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

Friday night’s wine…

By billn on December 11, 2021 #degustation

Parigot - Chassagne Clos Saint Jean

2010 Parigot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean (Blanc)
Hmm – nice. This has a silky, waxy, lemon nose that’s ripe and faintly spiced. An initial softness but then it’s much more incisive, wide and mineral. A suggestion of caramel in these flavours but the shape and energy are more to the mineral side. A wine that’s very easy drink, despite obvious concentration. In great shape too, considering the cork seal…
Rebuy – Yes

Just a few images from Beaune this week

By billn on December 10, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

Today, Friday 10-Dec 2021

A week without too much fog – even some occasional sunshine – but also, today, we woke up to snow. It cleaned up my running shoes pretty well this morning 🙂

In Beaune, though I was initially oblivious to the signs placed around the town (they are usually to tell people not to park for the next 24 hours due to deliveries/removals) but I had noticed that everyone seemed to wearing face-masks around the town – unlike Nuits St.Georges where nobody was wearing a mask! I asked at a couple of domaines if there were some new rules – and they all said no – so confusion reigns but the signs also remain!

Earlier this week, I pointed out the article in the local paper about the rise in covid-infections following the big parties around the Vent des Vins weekend. Apparently, the mayor, Alain Suguenot, has brushed aside the article, suggesting that there were no more than 5 or 6 people that were infected. A local wag (and director of a major Beaune ‘shipper’) laughed out loud at this response and said ‘Yes, 5 or 6 per table!’

Happy days!

I’m just hoping that I can see out my last week (next week) of tastings in the Côte d’Or without issues! Have a nice weekend…

the côte de covid….

By billn on December 06, 2021 #events#warning - opinion!

There’s plenty of truth in the articles that have circulated in the last few days; here and here.

I have, personally, never engaged with the larger tastings and tasting dinners that have re-emerged in these (currently!) post-confinement times. I checked out the Roi Chambertin’s new premises – and it was better – but I still didn’t stay to taste. I do have occasional domaine visits where there are other tasters present – and I try to keep my distance – only fist bumping where necessary. Even that is fraught with difficulty; last week I received an email from an important domaine to let me know that a fellow taster had tested positive. Fortunately, me not in the 10 days that have followed the tasting, and now I’m boosted with my third jab too.

Returning the title and the linked articles; it comes as no surprise to me that a number of domaines are currently unavailable for the next 10 days for tastings – no more info given! I’ve not personally had any cancellations yet, but I know of plenty of people who have. Anyone who has seen some of the Instagram videos of the maskless partying at the Paulée de Meursault, and others, will understand that these were, to all intents and purposes, the perfect super-spreader events. Let’s not even think about the rumours of the falsified covid-certificates at some of the gatherings.

I chose to leave Beaune for Bern on the weekend of the Vent des Vins, returning to the quieter side of Beaune on the Tuesday that followed. The wine auction was well-organised and with good spacing between the participants – it’s the extra-curricular events that have been the issue – the Trois not so Glorieuses in 2021!

weekend wines – week 48 2021…

By billn on December 06, 2021 #degustation

2016 Chablisienne, Chablis Grenouilles
A wide and attractively open nose – at first sniff the slightly exotic fruit might pull you away from Chablis but its purity and a growing seashore note might bring you back on course. In the mouth, this is proper Chablis – but of concentration – impressive minerality and depth of flavour that is very ‘2016’ – and I happen to be a very big fan of 2016. Not quite to the level of Bessin’s great 16 Valmur – but really super wine, almost a great wine!
Rebuy – Definitely!

1996 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières
Quite some amber, there’s some age to this colour. The nose is actually quite an invitation; it’s clean, nicely showcasing some dried leaves, even a little cooking herbs – it’s lovely. Mouth-filling, plenty pf acidity but with waves of finishing flavour. A wine that has little to do with fruit today, yet is really absorbing and rather tasty too.
Rebuy – Maybe

2019 Verret, Saint-Bris Veaupiery
This nose is a little tight, with some sweetness and a ‘clean’ impression, perhaps a little ripe mirabelle at the base. Hmm, that’s a hint of sweet but not too sweet, delicious fruit. Mouth-filling and vibrant – lovely energy. That’s a great wine, and in 2019 it’s not so much ‘sauvignon’ as simply ‘delicious.’
Rebuy – Yes

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