Degustation

20 years of wine in the last days…

By billn on June 23, 2020 #degustation

Two wines, 20 years apart…

2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos des Godeaux
Diam5-sealed.
A wine with a tight-ish, quite modest, yet inviting nose. This moves well over the palate with both citrus and mineral – then the impression of a little oak flavour in the finish – I’d probably wait another 6-12 months so that it fades more into the background. It has a super finish though. Excellent.
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Hudelot-Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
The cork comes out in one piece – wine-saturated through about 40% of its length.
Oh-yes! Now that’s a very attractive nose indeed – wide, complex, very Vosne and such a great invitation. Clean, wide, deliciously flavoured – not even a suggestion of the terrible young tannins of the vintage. Graceful wine, without lacking depth or energy and clearly beautifully made – a quarter of the bottle was left in the fridge, only to be rescued 4 days later – and not a hint of brett, oxidation or other unwelcome guests – less precise for sure but still completely drinkable. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

at last…

By billn on June 20, 2020 #degustation#picture gallery#reports#travels in burgundy 2020

domaines week number 21 2020

I’ve only missed 12 weeks of being able to visit producers, but to be honest, it has seemed longer.

My thanks – of course – to the domaines that had the time to see me this week – they will all be in my June report. I’m planning to be ‘en place‘ for a few days every other week, and there are always many more people worth paying a visit to!

saturday wines…

By billn on June 13, 2020 #degustation

guyon chambolle boisset auxey2010 Jean-Claude Boisset, Auxey-Duresses Les Crais
I’d quite forgotten I had these – two were found while ‘rooting’ for other stuff. The cork is a good one.
Hmm – now that’s quite a deep colour – that said, it’s one of those that inexplicably lightens in colour with more aeration(?) The nose has butterscotch and a suggestion of caramel, deep fruit but no citrus zing, though slowly becomes a little floral. Beautiful shape in the mouth; there’s the butterscotch flavour too, but the clarity and lightness of fine acidity and minerality make this excellent. Certainly some age, but despite the colour there’s no hint of oxidation. Not a big finish, but a fine and mouthwatering one. This is excellent – and I would also say ‘ready!’
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Clos du Village
Monopole – but a different one to that of Felettig – pff! Burgundy! A spongy, pliable cork – but with no ingress of wine and it comes out in one piece.
For the first couple of minutes, there’s a funky depth to this nose – but not enough to disguise the excitement. With air this is gorgeously perfumed – cliché Chambolle-Musigny – so floral and so attractive – yes! In the mouth, full of energy – but no fat – ingraining flavour and super energy. This is a wine that you could easily enjoy for 10 more years – I hope to do exactly that – but today it is simply top-class villages – you’d be happy with a grand cru showing like this. I instantly ordered a case of 12 (remember those?) of this when I tasted it from barrel – I thought quite expensive at the time – about €220 – but I’m more than happy with the result.
Rebuy – Oh yes!

this week’s mid-weekers

By billn on June 12, 2020 #degustation

pouilly-irancy

The Pouilly was delivered after my last report went online – so a note for you here.

2018 Ferraud, Pouilly-Fuissé L’Entreroches
A decent cork used as a seal – not domaine branded.
The nose starts with a little reduction, possibly oak – but backed with a decent freshness. Some time in the glass and the reductive element is gone and the citrus, faintly saline, is centre-stage. I like the cut, the line, of this wine, it’s incisive and very well balanced. There’s a little richness at the end of the palate where there’s also a little more visible, mineral, structure – but the perfumed flavour is excellent. This will benefit from a little patience, but it remains a very good wine from a very good Pouilly-Fuissé vintage.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Maison la Chapelle, Irancy
A good Trescases cork – Gregory doesn’t much like the industrial concept/ethos of DIAM.
Lots of colour – in 2017 the Irancys with so much colour usually got that from their césar – but there’s none of that in here. Ouch, I don’t remember this when tasted a couple of years ago, but here’s an almost painful depth of pyrazine aroma – it’s fully visible in the flavours too. I really didn’t like my first glass. Aeration massively diminishes the component and the wine becomes quite enjoyable. Decant for sure if you are sensitive to pyrazines.
Rebuy – No

some weekend wine, as usual with some cork work…

By billn on June 07, 2020 #degustation

barthod-2002-drouhin-2014Here’s a Bourgogne that always takes time to shed a certain austerity – it’s simply perfect right now. The second wine also has a touch of structure to subsume…

2002 Ghislaine Barthod, Bourgogne
The cork is obviously going to a problem! As the waiter’s friend exerts its pressure to lift the cork, it’s clear that the middle of the cork is soft and the worm will just pull out leaving a messy hole in the middle and the rest of the cork in place. Pff! The Ah-So is clearly the better tool here. This cork, however, still wants to extract its pound of flesh so anyway breaks and crumbles – the last 20% staying lodged in the neck but most of that was extracted by the worm of the waiter’s friend. It’s often the case that the end result of such a trial, to add insult to injury, delivers a tainted wine too – fortunately, that wasn’t the case with this bottle – my last of a half-case.
A modest, medium colour. The nose has a little smoke and soil but clarity and appealing cleanliness too – it’s very inviting – almost a grainy impression to these aromas. Pure, with beautiful acidity. This is such a mouth-watering, almost juicy-flavoured, medium-bodied wine. Red-fruited, not a bit ‘old’ just drinking beautifully. A bottle that empties much faster than most – and that’s the highest recommendation. I think I will wait a little longer for my 2005s!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune
Here’s a fine-looking and easy cork to extract – a little darker – perhaps ‘hardly’ treated. Starting a modest wine but as one of Drouhin’s flag-waving cuvées – hence, the similarity of the label to their Clos des Mouches. not least because the young vine fruit of that vineyard also ends up in these bottles – this is a wine that keeps getting better.
Of-course a younger colour than Ghislaine’s wine – but not deeper-coloured. The nose has a young and fresh perfume, though this nose also hints at a little structure. Despite the ‘village’ AOC the flavours are a little less weighty than the Bourgogne and, yes, there is just a little structural hardness here – but easy flavours are mainly the order of the day. This is a good wine but at this age, it offers no real competition for the excellence of the Bourgogne. I’d say that, structurally, I’d be waiting at least another 2-3 years for this wine – hopefully, this pause brings more interest – many 2014s are delicious right now, this is ‘easy’ but much less ‘giving’ – or at least that was the case with my home-made Shepherd’s Pie! On day two with cep risotto, this wine is transformed – more aromatic depth with blood and tobacco in the mix – also an easier-going palate of good depth of flavour. This transformation bodes well for the future I think!
Rebuy – Maybe on day one Rebuy – Yes on day 2!

the spring tastevinage 2020…

By billn on June 06, 2020 #degustation

Well, it was delayed a couple of months, and the format had to change to allow social-distancing but the Spring 2020 Tastevinage tasting happened on the 29th May. The results were just released, so here you go:

Tastevinage 105

jean-marc & hughes pavelot’s 2000 savigny dominode

By billn on May 27, 2020 #degustation

A wine that reached a brilliant peak – for the vintage – at around 7-10-years-old. Since then, slowly downhill – but I really wasn’t expecting this…

2000 Jean-Marc & Hughes Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Dominode
A full colour, now starting to show a little age. The nose is big and punchy – but really not very nice – full of old pyrazine. I would have bet a lot (and lost!) that this was a ‘classically mature 2004.’ The palate is also shot-through with this flavour. I have no idea where it has come from as I have never previously noted any hint of such a smell and taste in this wine. A wine with zero pleasure for me – such a shame. I let it stand overnight, stoppered, in the fridge. On day 2 there is no relenting of the aroma and flavour, and with no beef bourguignon on the horizon, this was unceremoniously dumped…
Rebuy – No

But this was a very worthy replacement – it will be in my April report, online in the next few days…

chateau de laborde herve kerlan

the recent corkscrew action…

By billn on May 25, 2020 #degustation

Well, it was Chardonnay Day – that was my excuse. A great series of wines…

2018 Séguinot-Bordet, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A big, chunky Trescases cork.
There’s freshness but also a ripeness of fruit – at this stage I wouldn’t guess ‘Chablis’ from the nose. The palate is another matter; correct, nicely driving and with a lovely citrus energy. Mineral, faintly sweetly finishing. This is a delicious glass from a bottle that empties rather more quickly than bargained for!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Yvon et Laurent Vorcoret, Chablis 1er Homme Mort
This neighbour, also with a Trescases cork.
Also fresh, more weight and minerality to the aroma too – here is Chablis. A wine of more weight and impact – it’s the vintage – pure, saline and completely delicious. The more classic of these two wines today. And drinking beautifully already!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Jacques Prieur, Montrachet
As I said – Chardonnay day! Here with a robust DIAM Origine.
A nose of depth and complexity – wow! Direct, immensely flavoured compared to the Chablis. Still, the wine opens further, almost tannic in texture, then wider too – wow – again! The oak is visible but not distracting. With this seal a wine for the ages – so hauntingly long. No ifs or buts, Grand Vin.
Rebuy – Yes

1999 François Gay, Ladoix
This, most likely, my last one of these – not tasted for a few years – but all that went before were fabulous. The cork is wine-soaked through 80% of its length but has the integrity to easily extract in one piece.
Still deeply coloured. The nose starts with a little funk – it needs 5 minutes in the glass to clear – and then we have it – beautifully pure, precise, red berry fruit of no particular age – just invitation! The palate reflects the nose – a purity of red fruity and here it is borne on beautiful acidity. There’s a little frisson of energy here that just multiplies the deliciousness of this wine. Not old, not young but à point. Fabulous…
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée St.Vivant
I think for a moment that the cork has cracked, but no, it extracts in one piece.
Plenty of colour – those boys knew how to extract! Hmm – now that’s an impressive nose – the first time I’ve noted any semblance of maturity from this wine – there is still hope for my 1999s – but still not for 10 years! The first impression in the mouth is the weight of concentration, depth and width of flavour – this is properly grand cru – complex too. It is also a wine that tightens after 20 minutes-or-so. It remains eminently drinkable and without the coarser, harder, edges of the 1999 (for example) but it remains an adolescent wine of very good parts though lacking coherence for now. In those days cheaper than many villages wines today – in that context, a worthy buy and with more potential down the road.
Rebuy – Probably Yes

tonights’ work…

By billn on May 19, 2020 #degustation

Burgundy Report

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