the tastevinage majors of 2019…

By billn on November 19, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

For the second vintage, the tasting panels of the Tastevinage have chosen their ‘majors’ for the year – their best wines tasted. This year they have reduced their list from the 20 that were chosen last year, to just 12 for this. There are some unexpected names in the list too!

For this ‘award,’ the twelve were chosen from the 1,215 wines that were submitted to blind taste in 2019:

2019 Tastevinage Majors

week 45 visits #2018BurgundyReport

By billn on November 09, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Back home for a very short weekend before taking the road back to Beaune tomorrow evening.

My last visits for the ‘2018 whites’ report are now made, and I’ve already started the transition to building up the list of red domaines. As a teaser for the forthcoming reports, you can see the mugshots of this week’s unfortunate victims!

a bottle or two…

By billn on November 08, 2019 #degustation

Just to show that I haven’t been ignoring my responsibilities these last couple of weeks – here’s the majority of bottles pulled from my own cellar in that time. I hold almost no notes in my head, but the basic impressions remain:

The Armand Volnay was 2017, actually a sinuous and delicious drink already.
Vocoret 2015 Chablis VV – more muscular again but über-mineral and it sang of Chablis.
Longère 2017 Beaujolais Blanc – Nos 2 Elles – rich and ripe yet each glass seemed better and better – a rare delicious BJB!
2007 Lafon, Monthelie 1er Les Duresses. This has really opened since I last looked – blossomed, even. Complex, very Volnay aromatically, just a little structure on the palate but no sharp edges, no rigour – drinking very well!
2015 Nicolas Rouget, Chorey-lès-Beaune – This had a lovely freshness, it drank superbly well for the appellation. Nicolas the (one of the) son(s) of Emmanuel of Flagey. If I understand correctly, this may have been a bit of an experiment, hence, not bottled under Emmanuel’s name, but now I think Emmanuel uses his own label.
2017 David Duband, Côte de Nuits Villages. Fabulous – simply great CVDN Villages. Plenty of colour, life, richness and freshness combined – bravo wine!
Chateau Rougeon Aligoté Arénites 2018. Easy fresh, tasty wine.
2015 Françoise André, Chorey-lès-Beaune Tue-Boeuf – another 2015 Chorey, more the standard fuller profile of the wines from here but completely delicious right now!
2012 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Lurets – wow – such clarity, such elegant aroma – great wine!
2007 David Clark, Morey Les Porroux – what a young wine! Concentrated, still tannic, a baby, but a good one with plenty of material. Still young!
2002 Chézeaux, Griotte-Chambertin – well, I was shocked that this was so fabulous – why – it was the Leclerc version and my experience of their older bottles is moderate at best, but this was fabulous – old oak, mushroom but clean and great!
2007 Alex Gambal, Chambolle 1er Charmes. Another hit, round, ripe, but complex and engaging – another hit for sure!
2016 Vézelay – the St.Vincent cuvée produced by Croix Montjoie – my last bottle, the one before was corked. Bright, energetic, citrus, engaging. Simply delicious.
2008 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambertin. All my older Chambertins have had a problem of one sort or another – all down to the corks – but this has the plastic ‘cork’ – it was fresh, really fabulously complex on the nose and in the mouth – elegant rather than powerful – but what a beauty to drink. It captured our hearts!

burgundy’s young winemaking talents 2019

By billn on October 30, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

Last week I was involved in the tastings that will determine the 2019 Young Talents from all regions of Burgundy. This (document below) is the result of the first tasting which delivers the 3 top producers in each territory. There will be further taste-off to decide which of the 3 nominees in each geographical area gets the final prize.

week 1 – 2018 (mainly) white burgundy

By billn on October 13, 2019 #degustation#reports

A good start to tasting 2018 whites for my October Report this week – above, belatedly, the mugshots of the unfortunates who hosted me. I’ve just 3 days of visits next week, but another dozen great producers will ensue…

juiciest wine of the last week?

By billn on October 03, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Easy – that was Mee Godard’s 2017 Morgon Côte du Py – it was deelish!
Unfortunately, she didn’t have any left at the domaine to sell – her dog didn’t seem to care though…

a few 2017s from michel noellat

By billn on October 02, 2019 #degustation

My end of last week meeting with Marko de Morey de la Vosne brought the chance to taste a three (excellent) recently opened bottles – here you go:

2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Medium-plus colour. Ripe, but this is still a nose of fine-berried precision – lots of depth to the aroma. Hmm, that’s wide, sweetly fruited and showing only a modest tannin in the mouth – long with faint bitters in the finish, but also a wine that shows a nice plump but not fat texture. Admirably long and decadently super – if you must drink one of these now, this is the one!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts
Perhaps a faint shade less colour than the Suchots. Aromas that are a little more airy and high-toned – precise berries again but with a different shape to the Suchots. Narrower in the mouth – the Suchots is a wide wine, this a wine that’s narrower but showing more drive and direction – a wine that’s got somewhere to go! Less weight of flavour in the finish but no less long, here with a perceptible oak in the finish – though faint. The Suchots catches the eye more today but in 8-10 years I think the gap will be much narrower. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Michel Noellat, Clos de Vougeot
Medium-plus colour. Not a big nose but one of purity and depth – very inviting – the precision of berries of the last with a little extra aromatic transparency. Ooh – that’s sleek with driving flavour – and the flavour is vibrant in the certainly more structured mid-palate. Ooh, this will be lovely but it’s quite the baby wine today. Long, long, finishing. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

just another wine – or two!

By billn on September 27, 2019 #degustation

2014 Jean-Claude Bessin, Chablis Valmur
A small but perfectly formed nose – a wine that is clearly far from open – except that it opens wide and with such persistence in the middle and finishing flavours. Pure, crystaline, only modestly complex today but pure, pure, pure – what a beautiful, if seemingly delicate thing today – practically ephemeral – so good!
Rebuy – Yes!

1993 Bonnefond, Ruchottes-Chambertin
A wine that’s been in my possesion for a long time – bought at Berry Bros & Rudd many years ago – I saved it for one of my end-of-vintage encounters with Marko de Morey – and this year I remembered!
In my evening lighting, this is a wine with plenty of colour – and not obviously aged colour at that. The nose is far from massive but what a nose – complex, growing, precise – pure yet with modest earth and dried leaves – it’s a real sniffer’s wine! Beautiful over the palate – so transparent though with a faint extra bump of tannin in the incredibly long finishing flavour.So elegant, so complex – practically timeless – I probably wouldn’t have guessed a 1990s wine despite the aromatic complexity. Really quite something – a wine that dances over the palate and stays long, long, long – bravo! Plenty of tannin solids drop into the glass with the final pour.
Rebuy – Yes!

a couple of midweek wines…

By billn on September 26, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Cabotte - Beaune Clos des Ursules
Inside the restored cabotte of Beaune Clos des Ursules

Plus a couple of pics from a nice evening run from Beaune to Bligny-lès-Beaune to Pommard and back through the vines to Beaune, catching the last rays of the sun!

1999 Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Au Dessus des Malconsorts
Typical – but we all know this feeling! I’ve only 2 or 3 more from this case of 12 and this was easily the best of all!
Typical 1999, but aromatically and from a flavour perspective – yes there’s depth, but this is a wine of line and of energy, rather than a spreading width of texture. Really, clean as a whistle, vibrant and with a fine complexity. My better half prefers young wine, but she took a second glass of this!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 JJ Confuron, Côte de Nuits Villages Au Leurey
Plenty of depth to the colour for this 2017. The nose is deep and attractively fresh fruited – almost to the point of suggesting a little CO2 – but the palate shows no carbonated grain. In the mouth – woosh – deep, lots of energy and just a little plushness to the texture – delicious ripe but fresh young fruit – I don’t mind if I do take a second glass – again! Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

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